Considering buying an old GL1100 project bike, and have a few questions.

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magnanimous

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Greetings, all.



In the process of helping search for a first bike for a good friend of mine, I stumbled upon a GL1100 project bike on craigslist for $600.

I've been considering getting an old bike to try and restore, and maybe turn into a cafe racer of some sort for awhile now.

On my bike, I havent done much more than basic chain maintenance and oil changes, but I do have a fair amount of experience working on old outboard motors, so I think I might be able to get by between an old service manual and the internet.

So, onto my questions:

How difficult is it to work on old goldwings compared to something like, say, an old virago or CB?

Would something like this be a bit too ambitious for a first project?

How easy is it to find GL1100 parts?

I've seen a few builds where the goldwing's airbox is replaced with a fuel tank from another bike, but little more detail is given than, "I did this." What kind of modifications are needed to the bike running without the airbox?

The bike in question:

https://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/mcy/3675314859.html

Thanks.
 
hmmmm 83 is good yr to have ...non running is a gamble anyway you look at it ...personaly id look at it its useally easy to figured if it leaks oil and from where when dirty like this ...wing motors are rather easy to work on to me ...by there design there easy to get to stuff some stuff can be rig even easier ...this appears to be an aspy ...much like 1200s in its digital read outs ...might be hard to get some stuff for this bike .....but as stated this is a great yr ...very good hiway bike
 
I'm hoping to check it out this weekend regardless, are there any common points of failure I should keep an eye out for?
 
initions and charging system not deal killers but price reducers nnnn three yellow wir connectors in side batery cover left of battery could be burn looking...any of tohose wires tect continuity to motor means stator bad ....rust on removeable frame piece on left side of bike sitting ....it is a non runner so carbs and all things are gamble not to discount it says motor free turning ...non runners are going to need some work to run ...the biggest gamble is on lower end ...here most oldwings fair rather well ive done good so far ...not perfect ..wings are great bikes worthy of restore
 
Welcome to Classics! The OldWings are easy to work on as long as you have basic mechanical skills. In most cases it takes more time to get the plastic off than to do the normal maintenance. For the difficult jobs, the forums are a limitless wealth of knowledge and help. As far as getting parts is concerned, as long as you don't mind paying postage, the "for sale" sections of forums will save your bacon again.

Key things to look at: Rust in the tank - not a show stopper but if there is a lot, it gives you an idea of how much work you got ahead of you. If the tank looks bad, think what the carbs look like. As Joe stated, check the removable part of the frame for rust, but also check the frame cross member at the center kick stand. Any problems give you more indications of the amount of work and also can help lower the price. The best thing about the OldWings though is that when they are running right, they will run for a long LONG time.

Good luck.
 
brianinpa":1dqj1ky5 said:
Welcome to Classics! The OldWings are easy to work on as long as you have basic mechanical skills. In most cases it takes more time to get the plastic off than to do the normal maintenance. For the difficult jobs, the forums are a limitless wealth of knowledge and help. As far as getting parts is concerned, as long as you don't mind paying postage, the "for sale" sections of forums will save your bacon again.

Key things to look at: Rust in the tank - not a show stopper but if there is a lot, it gives you an idea of how much work you got ahead of you. If the tank looks bad, think what the carbs look like. As Joe stated, check the removable part of the frame for rust, but also check the frame cross member at the center kick stand. Any problems give you more indications of the amount of work and also can help lower the price. The best thing about the OldWings though is that when they are running right, they will run for a long LONG time.

Good luck.


Slightly stupid question, but I understand that the GL1100's have their fuel tanks under the seat, correct? I've been looking at some pictures, and I can't seem to see where one would go about filling or checking the tank interior.
 
Fake tank has two doors on top that open. Rear one closest to the seat has the gas fill cap under it. Remove cap and look in.
 
Welcome aboard, magnanimous! I paid nearly $600 for my '83, and it was a mess! I wanted a restoration project, and it's been one so far! I've been able to find every part it needs so far, some easily, others with some research, and I've loved every moment of it! I say, go for it!
 
Welcome from Socal :hi: :hi: ,Repairing a burnt stator implies engine down since stator & clutch are located on the rear of engine unlike most bikes are on the side.To damage a cylinder real bad will mean you'll need a half an engine case since cylinders are an integral part of the cases (which of course it rarely occurs).That said,I wouldn't trade my aspy for any other bike unless it's an 80 thru 83 GL1100 :rocks: :rocks: .83 Gl1100 aspy should be the best from the whole 1100 lineup.Haven't ridden one yet. :popcorn:
 
Great bike's those 83' GL1100 are.

Parts are plentiful, be it going to a local Cycle Salvage yard, or on-line

Hardest thing to do on these bikes are Carbs, Clutch, stator, Water pump, that is when you are new and unaware how to, when you get used to these bikes they are not that difficult to work on.

Like Dan said, My first thought was why is it partially dissembled? he could not fix the problem.

If it were me, I would pull all the plugs, and inspect them, (make sure there is not a lot of OIL on the plugs, But, black sootie is OK) then put the bike on center stand, and put it in 5th gear, then turn the rear wheel to make sure the engine is not frozen.

Then throw out in the conversation, "Wow that is a lot of work" & "Looks like somebody was working on it but could not get it running" & "I'm probably going to regret this but would you take $300.00 for it?"


If he says No or counters back $500,
then say the highest I can go is $400, cause it looks like there is a lot wrong with it.

If he says $400, you counter back with "Meet me half way how about $350"

That's how I would pursue it, but be ready to do some work on it and spend a little money to get it going.
 

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westgl":3vxqo0u6 said:
Like Dan said, My first thought was why is it partially dissembled? he could not fix the problem.

If it were me, I would pull all the plugs, and inspect them, (make sure there is not a lot of OIL on the plugs, But, black sootie is OK) then put the bike on center stand, and put it in 5th gear, then turn the rear wheel to make sure the engine is not frozen.

Then throw out in the conversation, "Wow that is a lot of work" & "Looks like somebody was working on it but could not get it running" & "I'm probably going to regret this but would you take $300.00 for it?"


If he says No or counters back $500,
then say the highest I can go is $400, cause it looks like there is a lot wrong with it.

If he says $400, you counter back with "Meet me half way how about $350"

That's how I would pursue it, but be ready to do some work on it and spend a little money to get it going.

Nice tip for negotiating!

If it will crank with the starter, I'd do a compression check.
If not then it's a gamble whether any valves need to be replaced since it's common for botched timing belt changes for a valve to get bent if they didn't know what they were doing.

Another bargaining tool right there! :yes:
 
Welcome to the site from New Jersey! :clapping:

I would go with westgl on the price negotiation. From the looks of it, I would go no higher than $400! These bikes are easy to work on! My daughters (who were 16 and 10 years old at the time) were able to pull two engines and assist with installing never having worked on any engine (or with tools at all) before that! You can do it!
 
welcome from tenn. when i bought my 79 i had no idea of if it would run or not. and did not know of this site.took po's word that it had run. thanks to the great bunch on this site.after aweek or so she was up and running after the so called bike mechinics arould here . said it was hopeless or not werth anything. thanks agians gang.
 
My 83' had a Frozen engine,

all calipers were frozen

Foot Brake Frozen

It was the ultimate POS.

Dummy me i still bought it.

But it runs really nice and smooth now, and I learned a lot about these oldwings
 
westgl":38exbh94 said:
Great bike's those 83' GL1100 are.

Parts are plentiful, be it going to a local Cycle Salvage yard, or on-line

Hardest thing to do on these bikes are Carbs, Clutch, stator, Water pump, that is when you are new and unaware how to, when you get used to these bikes they are not that difficult to work on.

Like Dan said, My first thought was why is it partially dissembled? he could not fix the problem.

If it were me, I would pull all the plugs, and inspect them, (make sure there is not a lot of OIL on the plugs, But, black sootie is OK) then put the bike on center stand, and put it in 5th gear, then turn the rear wheel to make sure the engine is not frozen.

Then throw out in the conversation, "Wow that is a lot of work" & "Looks like somebody was working on it but could not get it running" & "I'm probably going to regret this but would you take $300.00 for it?"


If he says No or counters back $500,
then say the highest I can go is $400, cause it looks like there is a lot wrong with it.

If he says $400, you counter back with "Meet me half way how about $350"

That's how I would pursue it, but be ready to do some work on it and spend a little money to get it going.
Nice looking wing :rocks: :rocks: :rocks:
 
hi. i purchased my gl1100 1983 recently. as mentioned here be aware of rust on side stand bar if it seems to lean to far it will require replacing ( only 4bolts) the biggest job i had was the starter motor clutch other than that all other work was minor . replacing dog bone fuse .3 yellow wires etc still ongoing but well worth it ride safe
 
I too have a 1983 GL1100AD - same as the one shown. Lovely bike with nice cruising gearing. Genuine spares can be a swine to locate because most parts relating to brakes , for instance , are unique to this machine and not used anywhere in the Goldwing range. The instrument panel is also unique and good ones scarce. The bike should have an onboard compressor for the suspension - good news - those on the 1200 can be adapted to fit. I have converted mine to hydraulic clutch by using the end case and various parts from the 1984 1200. The above comment about the sidestand relates to all the wings and be warned if the bike leans too far over. Yes , easy to replace , but good non rusty ( rotten ) ones difficult to find and attract a premium price. Take my advice and if you locate a good one on ebay , or any where else , snap it up and keep as a spare. I did .
Even though the bike has some shortfalls I would not swap it for anything else.
 
I don't imagine gauges or fairing will be much of an issue, planning on removing the fairings and hoping to use analogue gauges.
 
Welcome magna. I just purchased a set of GL1000's in February. I have next to no experience working on motorcycles. I was able to easily learn how to rebuild the carbs, set the timing and ignition, and now I am rebuilding the rear end of my 75 to get it ready for a long haul trip. These bikes are pretty easy to work on and very rewarding when you crank the throttle. I say jump on it and dive in whole heartedly. Do your homework, take your time, dont cut corners and you will love the results. I know I do.....
 

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