Electric Plenum Heater Take 2

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skiri251

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Okay.
So I checked intake vacuum leak.
DSCN0239s.jpg


Found a massive one because I didn't braze that square flange completely but forced myself not to think about it. :hihihi:
Leaks repaired with further brazing + JB Weld. :hihihi:

Meanwhile 5 ohm 50 watt resister arrived.
DSCN0249s.jpg


So I decided to put it INSIDE the plenum.
DSCN0247s.jpg


Put all together and started the engine. Now it behaves much better.
[video]https://youtu.be/ZsgVdep5fo0[/video]

Ambient temp was 75F.
I didn't turn on the heater first and saw plenum temp drop to below 60F.
Then I turned it on. It came back to 70F and was still climbing slowly.

@13.5V, 5 ohm resister should produce around 36 watts that turned out to be more than enough for idling and occasional burst of throttle.

I guess I am ready for the test ride but I need to get ready for tomorrow's camping trip.
Maybe next week after the camping.
 
Thanks.
So far so good.
Now where can I find Weber tuning info?
I just need simple stuff like idle RPM and idle mixture.
I see several screws but have no idea which does what.
 
Dan and Joe can help with tuning. I have a weber book. Very small print and weak eyes making it hard to read through.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110251#p110251:p5e75151 said:
skiri251 » Fri Feb 14, 2014 3:53 pm[/url]":p5e75151]
Thanks.
So far so good.
Now where can I find Weber tuning info?
I just need simple stuff like idle RPM and idle mixture.
I see several screws but have no idea which does what.

Well ok, here's the deal with setting the idle mix screw as I see it.

It has been suggested here and other forums the mix screw should be about 1 turn out from lightly seated.
The Weber repair manual (specifically for this carb) says anywhere from 1 to 2.5 turns out.

The book says idle must be below 1000 rpm to adjust it properly.
Problem with this is, rpm is rpm, not manifold vacuum so all we can do is use that 1000 rpm as a general reference since these engines run at a lower manifold vacuum than a car would with this same carb on it.

So, the way I adjust it is I run it about 900 rpm then turn the screw in til idle rpm starts to drop. Listen carefully.
Then I turn it out until idle speeds up (adjusting rpm back to 900 if needed) to the point that idle no longer speeds up.
Then I turn it in til idle rpm just barely starts to drop and stop there.
A slight lean idle I think is better but if you want a bit rich turn it out a 1/4 turn.
 
I wonder how fuel resistant the resistor will be over time. Does it get wired power in and out to ground?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110261#p110261:1bkekv44 said:
dan filipi » Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:27 pm[/url]":1bkekv44]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110251#p110251:1bkekv44 said:
skiri251 » Fri Feb 14, 2014 3:53 pm[/url]":1bkekv44]
Thanks.
So far so good.
Now where can I find Weber tuning info?
I just need simple stuff like idle RPM and idle mixture.
I see several screws but have no idea which does what.

Well ok, here's the deal with setting the idle mix screw as I see it.

It has been suggested here and other forums the mix screw should be about 1 turn out from lightly seated.
The Weber repair manual (specifically for this carb) says anywhere from 1 to 2.5 turns out.

The book says idle must be below 1000 rpm to adjust it properly.
Problem with this is, rpm is rpm, not manifold vacuum so all we can do is use that 1000 rpm as a general reference since these engines run at a lower manifold vacuum than a car would with this same carb on it.

So, the way I adjust it is I run it about 900 rpm then turn the screw in til idle rpm starts to drop. Listen carefully.
Then I turn it out until idle speeds up (adjusting rpm back to 900 if needed) to the point that idle no longer speeds up.
Then I turn it in til idle rpm just barely starts to drop and stop there.
A slight lean idle I think is better but if you want a bit rich turn it out a 1/4 turn.

Thanks Dan.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110264#p110264:24rhlh9n said:
Ansimp » Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:51 pm[/url]":24rhlh9n]
I have got to know
What is this Skiri?

That is a previous incarnation of child seat. Made of copper plumbing pipe. :hihihi:

This is the current one with moveable arm rest.

1387153443.jpg

DSCN0107c.jpg


The idea is my 9-year-old son can fall asleep without falling off the bike.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110263#p110263:3lw1gmx1 said:
sgq700 » Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:04 pm[/url]":3lw1gmx1]
See what living too close to wilmington does to ya :smilie_happy: Too Cool!! and it is unique!

Thanks!
Yes, must be that smell or something in the air. :hihihi:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110262#p110262:3hqcskl8 said:
slabghost » Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:35 pm[/url]":3hqcskl8]
I wonder how fuel resistant the resistor will be over time. Does it get wired power in and out to ground?

It's wirewound in aluminum package. Should withstand gas and E10, shouldn't it? Well I will know for sure.

https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70201503#tab=overview

Two wires are soldered to the terminals. I put fuel hose over the wires so insulation will be protected (hopefully).
 
okay I need more detail on the resistor hook up ... clear enough for alley oop to understand LOL

on Vs bike the manifold is a lot like yours at the plenum ... I have also flip this manifold over ..and bottom is all open ..im gathering info and ideas of how to turn this bottom into a heating deal of some kind .. so the info on this resistor intrest me big time as to what it can do
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110273#p110273:2hdtut09 said:
joedrum » Sat Feb 15, 2014 4:11 am[/url]":2hdtut09]
okay I need more detail on the resistor hook up ... clear enough for alley oop to understand LOL

on Vs bike the manifold is a lot like yours at the plenum ... I have also flip this manifold over ..and bottom is all open ..im gathering info and ideas of how to turn this bottom into a heating deal of some kind .. so the info on this resistor intrest me big time as to what it can do

Hello Joe.
Back from the camping trip.

Well the resister is a mil spec 5 ohm 50 watt capacity one from Allied Electronics (as in my post).
It is fully encapsulated in aluminum housing and said to be environment proof (not sure about gas though).
I just soldered 14 AG wires to both terminals. Put urethane fuel hose over the wires to protect them from gas.
Drilled holes to plenum, passed through the wires and plugged the gap with JB Weld.
12V comes from head light. I already have a relay there so draw is not a problem and it is switched off while starter is turning the engine.

As soon as I am ready, I will go out test ride (short one around the neighborhood first) and see how plenum temp goes.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=110313#p110313:15qx5zda said:
badorderbob » Sun Feb 16, 2014 6:55 am[/url]":15qx5zda]
Cool Idea,..could also run them on the runners :music: !! :hi: Bob

Thanks.

Well single resister takes around 2.7 amps @ 13.5V (=36 watts) so I cannot put them as many as I like. I have one more resister which I wanted to put inside the plenum for symmetry's sake but 72 extra watts may be too much for my stock charging system (although the after market stator is said to be 10% more efficient than OEM) so for now only one.
 

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