Engine knocking need help identifing

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To all:
I replaced the cam off the other head and disapointingly the noise continues. I mentioned I would next replace the springs on both intake & Exhaust valve on piston 2. Hoiwever before doing this do you guys still recomend I go ahead or should I go straight to replacing the head entirely?

Dan: Have you had a brain storm in your dreams yet?
 
id take the head or heads off ...do i little more testing ...as i was taking the motor out ...to realy figure this out ....your springs were checked by the head shop....im rather convinced its not top end anymore
 
joedrum":3i6nwdji said:
id take the head or heads off ...do i little more testing ...as i was taking the motor out ...to realy figure this out ....your springs were checked by the head shop....im rather convinced its not top end anymore
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:shock: I knew there was this biker thing going on, but you hang out at the head shop? Far out, man!! :music: :smilie_happy:

Mark
 
Jalvarez":2ylbmh44 said:
To all:
I replaced the cam off the other head and disapointingly the noise continues. I mentioned I would next replace the springs on both intake & Exhaust valve on piston 2. Hoiwever before doing this do you guys still recomend I go ahead or should I go straight to replacing the head entirely?

Dan: Have you had a brain storm in your dreams yet?
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Sorry, no night visions.

I'm pretty much at a loss what the heck could be causing this.

I think since wasting a head gasket means spending more money, I'd remove the valve springs and check them before swapping heads.
 
Ok: Everyone should recall the head on it now was done by a machine shop with brand new valves. Should I skip replacing the head and just pull the engine or give it one more shot. Once more replacing the head in question and seeing "once and for all" if it's an upper end issue. As we seem to be out of possibilities on the top end.
 
Jalvarez":j684oj05 said:
Ok: Everyone should recall the head on it now was done by a machine shop with brand new valves. Should I skip replacing the head and just pull the engine or give it one more shot. Once more replacing the head in question and seeing "once and for all" if it's an upper end issue. As we seem to be out of possibilities on the top end.
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Yeah, it seems unlikely it's valve related but still.........aweful loud on the top end.
That's what makes me question the springs.
 
Engines out is simple! My daughters and I pulled 2 and swapped them out. At 16 years old, she pulled the '82 with only assistance with the jack holding the engine and me getting the drive shaft snap ring out. Otherwise, it is fairly staright forward.

I go with change the springs. It is the only thing left before pulling the engine (short of swapping heads). It sure is mystifying sound! On any other engine, it would easily have been valves.
 
Jalvarez":2hqsz90h said:
Hello Dan: I have never taken an engine out on a GL1100. Any suggested tutorials or special mentions
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Well the carbs can stay in place, just unbolt them from the heads and bungy up.

The right belt cover removed helps for clearance.

Your going to need a snap ring tool for the driveshaft clip with 90 degree tips.
I've done it twice using 2 small screwdrivers but the tool is way easier.

Watch the vacuum advance unit while moving the engine down and out. It likes to hook the rear brake line.

That's all I can think of right now.
 
And a little tip I found during the last engine swap, I unbolt the gas tank and knock it back as far as it will go with the tire on (about 3/4"). Gives a lot more room at the vacuum advance and takes less shoving to get the engine out.
 
Guys: You maybe on to something and I recall all of you speculated it is a top end problem with the loud tapping. Now you may all have been right, All along it clearly sounded like the valves slapping. Well I changed the springs on piston #2 and guess what the noise reduced to nothing at idel and starts after i start reving the motor but it is still there. I posted the latest video it is in darkness but you can hear the issue at hand.

Now I am thinking it maybe the springs after all. What do you think shoiuld I order new ones and see what happens. The springs I removed looked good but I replaced them with another set from an extra head and it too maybe week thus the tapping

what do you all think?

Now I am even more confussed but still hopeful it may not be a lower end engine problem

https://youtu.be/HBGypuSxWRw
 
New springs are still available as a set. I posted a link here somewhere. It certainly can't hurt to have them. You could just try another set maybe from the opposite head? I have VW springs I intend to try but have not yet installed.
 
You swapped #2 springs and its quieter.
I'm not sure the valve action of #2 and #4 cylinder but could it be one of the #4 valves open at the same time as one of the #2 valves?
Thinking maybe tapping is also coming from one of the #4 valves.
 
Now I'm thinking coil bind on the spring(s)...is it possible that you are adjusting the rockers too tight? I might try loosening them off and see it that changes the noise any...
 
AApple":244bkjlg said:
Now I'm thinking coil bind on the spring(s)...is it possible that you are adjusting the rockers too tight? I might try loosening them off and see it that changes the noise any...
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There are videos with the rockers removed and it still taps.
 
Ok...before any humorous comments begin.....is it possible that the vacuum advance has come apart and is swinging wildly when he accelerates causing it to tap the case? (Now you can laugh at me!) :swoon: :smilie_happy: :cheeky:

It sure sounds like something that taps upon acceleration and it sounds light enough (metal) to not be bearings. But there has to be something light enough to make that tap consistent with piston speed.

Also, is it possible the noise could be transient meaning it is created elsewhere and traveling through the different components?
 

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