Fuel delivery please help

[87 restore]

went to start gl1200 restoration and wouldnt start troubleshoot it and find out when i plug in fuel pump it loads the carbs so bad that it actually floods out i unhook the pump and keep my finger on the start button it will eventally start but smell like it is flooded and blow white smoke anyone have idea what could be problem? is there a regulator for fuel ?

 

[backlander]

The pump is suppose to pulse on and off and is controlled by the fuel pump relay and the ignition control unit. If the pump is pulsing on and off as it should then the float valves in the carbs are not seating or not set correctly and flooding the engine.

 

[87 restore]

so its a carb rebuild then correct?

 

[backlander]

Sounds like it's going to be at least a removal, cleaning and resetting of floats. May not need to many parts, depends on the history of the bike and the condition of the gaskets. Dan's got a video on refreshing the carbs on a shoestring you can access on CGW youtube channel, the button is about two lines under the Paypal button.

Just to be sure, the choke is off, right? Sometimes those fuel enricher valves hang open and that will flood it also.

 

[87 restore]

to be honest i need to replace choke cable it stripped when i took it out of the control housing so its not hooked up. also these carbs were off of a 84 model they seem to respond very well just load up very quickly when its running and i hook up fuel pump

 

[backlander]

Sounds like you need to yank em out and go thru them. On the 1200's the float height should be 7.5mm from the top of bowl flange while carbs are near vertical so the float tang barely contacts the spring loaded pin in the float needle valve.

 

[87 restore]

Do we have any exceptional members here with the ability to go through this rack of carbs and clean them up? If so, can you put me in touch with them? To be honest working 12 hour days, and since my bike is not complete i am gonna yank engine back out and put in new higher amp stator from Ricks. And with this i just do not have the time .

 

[Ansimp]

Are we 100% sure about your stator being faulty?

 

[dan filipi]

87 restore » Sun Jun 09, 2013 9:10 am[/url]":2otr0c4f]Do we have any exceptional members here with the ability to go through this rack of carbs and clean them up? If so, can you put me in touch with them? To be honest working 12 hour days, and since my bike is not complete i am gonna yank engine back out and put in new higher amp stator from Ricks. And with this i just do not have the time .

Your in Saint Mary's, Ohio. We have quite a few members in Ohio.
Anyone takers to help out 87 restore?

 

[87 restore]

backlander » Sat Jun 08, 2013 1:42 pm[/url]":5f2rqn9l]Sounds like it's going to be at least a removal, cleaning and resetting of floats. May not need to many parts, depends on the history of the bike and the condition of the gaskets. Dan's got a video on refreshing the carbs on a shoestring you can access on CGW youtube channel, the button is about two lines under the Paypal button.

Just to be sure, the choke is off, right? Sometimes those fuel enricher valves hang open and that will flood it also.

If what i have here circled in red are what you call fuel enricher valves they would only come out maybe a 1/6" of an inch cleaned them with some seafoam and a toothbush worked them back and fourth a few times now when choke is pulled they open all the way up. Re-installed carbs back on bike and is still doing the same thing.

 

[backlander]

That's one problem fixed and your choke will work with a new cable but you really need to flip the carb rack upside down, remove the bowls, check the float height and set. While your in there you should go ahead and make sure all the jets, screens and seats and passage ways are clear. I use a magnifying glass to check the float needle valve and make sure it's not to worn with an indented circle on the rubber tip. After you get them reassembled, hook up a one gallon tank full of gas with hose and hook it to the line which feeds the carbs and put the tank about two foot above the carb rack, turn on fuel, give the gas time to fill the bowl and if gas comes out the throat of a carb then that needle valve for that carb is not sealing off. This way you can check them before you reinstall the rack on the bike.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm curious about using gas to test, messy and kind of a waste. Besides that we have to rig a container that doesn't leak.
What about using water as a test?
It is heavier than gas yes but would it make for an accurate test liquid since my guess is its thicker than gas.
Getting it out after testing is no big deal, blow out with compressed air or let air dry.

Thoughts from the collective?

 

[slabghost]

Water is heavier and with more surface tension. It may not leak out as readily as gas and will likely raise floats higher.

 

[87 restore]

so no takers here on rebuilding carbs? knowledgeable members send me price for doing the job

 

[joedrum]

hmmmm 1200 can be easy and hard it a matter wether the rubber slides are good ...there qite costly when thet need replaced ....

 

[87 restore]

so you up for the job?

 

[slabghost]

I've too many irons in the fire and very little time myself. If you can spare a few minutes a day to do it yourself I'm sure one of us can walk you through the process.

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Mon Jun 10, 2013 6:04 am[/url]":1y5c9kw1]I'm curious about using gas to test, messy and kind of a waste. Besides that we have to rig a container that doesn't leak.
What about using water as a test?
It is heavier than gas yes but would it make for an accurate test liquid since my guess is its thicker than gas.
Getting it out after testing is no big deal, blow out with compressed air or let air dry.

Thoughts from the collective?

As Slab said the specific gravity of water is greater than fuel. The whole idea of a wet test is to confirm that what you did in the float set is correct. I use an old portable boat tank for all my fuel issue testing etc. It is especially handy to do testing with the tank off a bike that doesn't have a fuel pump.

 

[backlander]

I use a one gallon external plastic tank from an old lawn mower I had. After the test, I drain the float bowls via the drain screw into a clean clear plastic peanut butter jar that I have marked at 1.5 oz to see about how much the floats allowed into the bowls before sealing off. I use atf in my test gas tank and I return the drained gas back to the test tank so I don't loose to much in the process. When I think the gas is getting old, I burn it in my lawn mower or tiller. I tink dat qualifies me for the tight wad award. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[Ansimp]

It's better than being a loose wad! :smilie_happy: