- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 9,232
- Reaction score
- 262
- Location
- Duncanville, Texas
- My Bike Models
- 1981 GL1100 Innerstate("The Turd")SOLD!!, 1996 GL1500 Innerstate
Thanks to some info from Old Fogey, I decided to see if my neutral switch would come apart without me breaking it....it DID!! I put the switch in a vise with low tension, and used the same 90* type snap-ring pliers used to remove the driveshaft snap-ring....if you have the engine out of your bike, then you prolly have these pliers. The end cap has 4 blind holes in it that allow 90* snap ring pliers to turn the cap in/out. Old Fogey mentioned that the plastic end cap is very brittle, and it is, so USE CAUTION if you want to do this repair to yours. I got the end cap unscrewed with no issues, and was able to clean the internal parts well, and re-assemble. I used some fine emery cloth the clean the brass terminals of the switch components, and the steel housing where the brass actually makes contact to provide the ground for the neutral light. I used a small amount of sillycone on the end cap threads to re-assemble for leak protection, as well as to keep the end cap from possibly un-screwing itself. Testing afterward confirms the switch works as designed....plunger at rest, continuity, plunger depressed, NO continuity. Here's some pics...
btw....this same switch is used in several other model Honda bikes....750, GL1000, etc.
There is a small rubber lathe-cut seal that fits between the endcap and housing as a seal....I did not get that seal in the pics for some reason...but there is one there.
btw....this same switch is used in several other model Honda bikes....750, GL1000, etc.
There is a small rubber lathe-cut seal that fits between the endcap and housing as a seal....I did not get that seal in the pics for some reason...but there is one there.
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