GL1100 RUNNING RICH

[joedrum]

ahhhhh !!!!!!...go ahead and get new plugs ...hook them up to wire ... and place them so you can see spark and grounded ...with plugs out of motor spin it ..and see what kind of spark you have with new plugs ...is always my first move on iggy

ya what what v said :smilie_happy:

 

[mcgovern61]

I am under the opinion the #2 carb float is not seating and is flooding. Also, any chance you did a dry sync of the butterfly's before re-installing the carbs? If they were not all the same before syncing you can get them all out of whack. I am over in Sewell. I might be able to help, but I go out of town next week again.

 

[auctioneeral]

Gerry. I'm home every day from 230pm till 5am.
All day sunday. Saturday i work 16hours.
Picking up 4 plugs today.
Yes i did sync carbs on bench.

 

[auctioneeral]

If the float was not seating. Wouldn't i have fuel coming out carb some place.
I had carbs sitting on bench with 1 gal tank hook up to carbs for about 30 minutes with no sign of fuel leaks. I had fuel tank about 5-6 feet higher then carbs. I had no signs of leaks.

 

[mcgovern61]

auctioneeral » Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:43 am[/url]":30w4gj40]
If the float was not seating. Wouldn't i have fuel coming out carb some place.
I had carbs sitting on bench with 1 gal tank hook up to carbs for about 30 minutes with no sign of fuel leaks. I had fuel tank about 5-6 feet higher then carbs. I had no signs of leaks.

Not necessarily. I had a tank suspended with my carbs on a table and they were dry as a bone. I then tilted them (simulating riding twisties) and two of them leaked.

 

[dan filipi]

I have had float valve that needed more pressure to close them.
My solution at the time was to lower the float height 1-2 mm.
Not saying you're having this problem, just something to check.

I also had a #2 carb that insisted on running rich.
That one had a passage plugged tight which took drilling in from the side to clear it.
I epoxied the drill hole closed.

 

[joedrum]

that right there is another reason stock caebs are so finicky they have way to many 90degree corners in the passages that cloged forever unless totally gouge in and cleared ...even part blockage totally changes the carb from the others and is impossible to sync through out the total rpm zone ...

 

[auctioneeral]

Well doing a little checking around the 4 new plugs connected to plug wires with all plugs laying on head and holding one at a time and cranking motor. Spark weak on #2 and #1 3 4 no spark today.
I hate electrical tracing put, battery is 12.75-13.45 with trickle charger on it and the 4 plug connector near battery was 11.25 volts. 2 wires connected to coil show 10.79volts. So I started cleaning connectors from battery forward. Kill switch I have stay volts as battery give or take a few but 12 v. I quit on it for today. I have to get book out to check wiring diagram. I do know I don't have 12 volt at the plug for the top spark igniter. So I got work to do. I try cranking motor when I was done tonight and have spark on #1 3 4 no spark on 2. and spark is real weak because it was getting dark.
Any pointers. I have not even tested coil, igniters yet.

 

[slabghost]

Just clean and tighten all the connections until you have near battery voltage at the coils. If the spark is still weak new plug wires and resistor caps may be needed. :builder:

 

[zman]

as to spark I wasn't real impressed with my GL` spark, no big snap and not highly visible but it is completely normal and runs fine, check in the dark or near dark would be better, if spark your OK if not unscrew the spark wire from the coil and check the Ohms of the wire then check inside where the wire fits into the coil, have seen corrosion completely disintegrate the spike that the wire pushes on, usually there will be green/white corrosion on the spark plug wire end as well.

 

[auctioneeral]

Well I got same voltage at coils as battery, when thru the whole wiring harness plugs and cleaned termials. Still loading up with fuel smoking. When I first started it for 2-5 minutes. Shut it off and checked plugs #1 and #2 were white color, #3 #4 black carbon. I have 2 other spark units so I swap them out 1 at a time with no change. I swaped out both coil packs and now when I pull #3 #4 plug wires off plug while running there is no motor sound change. I'm thinking its the left coil for #3 and #4.
Question can I just lay the other coil pack on bike and ground it and hook up wires from left coil to it to see if thats it without flighting to get those's screws loose holding coils on bracket.

Here's video first start up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgXDHF8y8-M

Pulling plug wires off after start unit change
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcpDQ4VaON8

 

[slabghost]

I think you can if it's a good ground.

 

[auctioneeral]

Ok slabghost. Thanks Will give it a go tomorrow.

 

[slabghost]

I'd try just one coil disconnecting the one not firing. Leave the one working.

 

[auctioneeral]

That's what I'm going to try.

 

[dan filipi]

Seems you're on the right track, that 4,3 coil is bad.
Could try swapping the coil primary leads and plug wires front to rear and see if the problem moves but it looks pretty certain to me.

 

[auctioneeral]

Ok motor runs same. I try 2 other coils and same pull 3 4 pull wires motor doesn't change sound. Remove 1 or 2 and motor drops down.
What does that pulsar genertor do.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmm there two uniits like coils they can be swtched also....hmmm there under the shelter and hmmmm grey i think and have okin printed on them with short pig tails on them...switchh those wires and see what happens

 

[auctioneeral]

Joe i have switch them back and cofward. No difference.
I have 2 other spark units still same.
I just changed spark plug wires no different.
I give up.
3 4 plugs are dark white
1 2 dark black

 

[joedrum]

rest allen...this would get me too.....sheesh honda and there ignitons and carbs...dont cave in...it still seems lgnition hmmmmmm