GL1100 RUNNING RICH

[auctioneeral]

Were does the spark start from on these.
Spark unit. Pulsar genertor then coils.

 

[joedrum]

yes starts at back of motor to shelter and sparkers to coils and then wires to plugs

 

[auctioneeral]

4 plugs firing now.
Still not right
Video
https://youtu.be/o79SXTc_XVA

[video]https://youtu.be/o79SXTc_XVA[/video]

 

[slabghost]

Connection to the pulse generators is on the side of the battery box toward the front of the bike. It's pretty small compared to the yellow stator wire connection. Be sure it's clean and tight. Check the plug wires to see if you have a couple switched. These are CV carbs and need the restriction of the air filter and box to operate correctly. You're getting close. Higher rpm sounds pretty good. :builder:

 

[joedrum]

put single carb back on it ...you have lost ground and added way more to consider with 4 carbs and ignition trouble going on....seems the carbs suck presently for use....id say plugs were fouled and you were adjusting carb and plugs needed cleaned also...and without that it cept getting worse....there is not much comfort in running but not dialed good it dose slowly degrades things....in my opinion

 

[dan filipi]

Putting the single back on just may be the simplest approach at this point to get the ignition back into shape.

 

[auctioneeral]

I think Sunday I will start to put single back on and see what happens.
I know my single is aftermarket EMPI 34-pict 3.
Has anybody heard of anybody trying the solex 30.

 

[dan filipi]

auctioneeral » 3 minutes ago[/url]":fl2pr665]
I think Sunday I will start to put single back on and see what happens.
I know my single is aftermarket EMPI 34-pict 3.
Has anybody heard of anybody trying the solex 30.

I have a Solex 32 and like it a lot.
A 30 should make a good runner.

 

[auctioneeral]

Ok pulled the honda carbs. Installed single which I knew was got going to run correctly because of the bypass screw being messed up and I was right.
But I figured I would check volts and spark and again have weak spark on a couple plugs. But I'm losing .05-1.0 volt from battery to key switch and fuse box. I have tested from ways grounding from green ground wire and also using a jumper wire right from battery ground to see and everything reads same.
Sample battery 13.3 v-- solenoid-- main fuse both sides to regulator read same as battery 13.3v.
main wire running from solenoid to key switch 13.3v so times and other times it will be half to 1.5 volts lower reading..
Main fuse box hot wire from key switch is low volts to.
First time I checked volts today. battery read 12.8 v at the coils 11.2v. all fuses 11.2v.

Now has anybody pulled the black tape off the main wiring harness up around were the spark units are . The reason I ask is a peel all the black tape off main wiring harness near the spark units horn connectors and so. And I have a few wires in the group in that area that are wraped in blue tape. Sample black/white wires going to spark units are blue tape to the b/w wires like a spice in the wiring. I have to check closer.

So I got to figure this out, because to me I should not be dropping almost 1 volt in a 4 foot length wires.
Also have a co-worker getting me another 34 pict 3 carb.

 

[slabghost]

Hang in there. Old wiring gains resistance and old connections and switches more so. Fortunately connections and switches can often be cleaned to work as new again. Not fun but not all that hard either.

 

[auctioneeral]

I agree slabghost. But I don't think I should be losing that much volts.

 

[dan filipi]

auctioneeral » 4 minutes ago[/url]":1aainasi]
I agree slabghost. But I don't think I should be losing that much volts.

If there is a load on that wire you could easily see a volt or more drop.
The wire is small and that in itself acts like a resistor.

 

[joedrum]

the hooch syndrome ...yes honda did that spliced wires in harnest and there not sodder connections ...the wiring in hooch is one big resistor that looses voltage even in the strait runs and connectors look good ...the key switch itself also seems from your description to be loosing volts too ..that rather common ...wiring this old is like buck shot ..everything gets hit and causes problems ... you and me both need to really upgrade this wiring ...as for carb ,,is all you need is screw nothing else messed up ...good luck to you and me ..ive already lost my stator in the pursuit to get things right

 

[Ansimp]

Is it possible to install an ignition feed relay for the coils so that you can eliminate voltage drop through the ignition switch/ kill switch etc?

 

[slabghost]

Absolutely. Use the stock wire to power the relay and run new wire from the battery through the relay to the coils. My 78 KZ has that.

 

[auctioneeral]

Well worked a little more on electrical. I did find out by pulling all the fuses execpt the engine one for the ignition I have about same voltage at battery as fuse box,coils,ignition switch as soon as I pull the headlight fuse in, I lose about 1.3 volts at the coils and spark units.

 

[slabghost]

Headlight is a big load.

 

[dan filipi]

I don't think your problem is in that voltage drop.

 

[slabghost]

dan filipi » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:52 pm[/url]":8gjbwu70]
I don't think your problem is in that voltage drop.

Agreed. Lights should go out when start button is pressed and once running it should have more voltage.

 

[auctioneeral]

I got to wait for a co-worker to get me another single carb. The one I was using I can't get it to idle correct plus the bypass screw I can't get it to turn.