GL1200 - low speed jello connection from grips to the front wheel

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
.010 out of true should be un-noticeable in ride and feel. I do hope this has the problem solved and you can get your friends bike right also.
 
One last thing I thought of..

If front and rear tires are not EXACTLY tracking on the same line, there would be a slight "pull" either to the left or right depending how far out of "track" they are.. this would cause an oscillation in the bike when ridden and also "scuff" the tires as they wore..

Bad swingarm bearings/alignment or a bent frame could cause this as well as bent triple trees or forks..

in the online manual ( the link I posted earlier) there are pictures and specs for the wheels... also in the first chapter specs for allowable runout are given..

Hope you managed to find the source... the front wheel sitting too far left or right of centerline would also account for tracking errors...

Just another $0.02 for the bucket...


Rich
 
all sounds good to me ...but when putiing on fork brace ...in my world i always try to get front wheel off the ground ....check everything as in alinment of forks being strait and under no pressure and then torque there ...even to the exstense of filling gaps on brace with stick epoxy to pevent movement and stress on bolts ...this gives total rigitity as one can get with the parts ...when brace is put on in an unequal stress its worst than not haveing one ...this is for sure result :mrgreen:
 
On my ride to/from work today I nearly died - the grin on my face was soooo big it was like a ram-air scoop and I almost couldn't breathe out! It was like riding a completely different scoot - I hadn't realized that I was actually having the problem at all speeds and that the eratic wandering in the truck ruts wasn't normal and the bike didn't have to feel just slightly unstable when cornering at near highway speed! Everything felt so solid today that I even scraped the boards once without worrying about it.

I don't know whether it was the higher torque I used on the brace, or the tightening sequence for the entire forks that made the difference, or the combination of the two. I do know that the bike is a lot more fun to ride when the wheel and the bars point the same direction ALL the time instead of 'just on average'.

Thanks all for the help. OldWrench - that was a fantastic offer! N2ppn - I had checked the alignment using 2 strings from the back tire to the front and it looked pretty close to me
 
:shock: But...but...EVERYONE loves Jello!! :mrgreen:

i_heart_love_jello_sticker-p217129853080306506en7l1_216.jpg


Glad ya got it handling steady, tho....they are much nicer when yer not floppin all over the road.... :clapping:
 
Another glorious day of no butt suction holding me onto the seat! Stopped of at my new buddies place on the way home and passed the cure info on to him too - he has been so frustrated with his that he bought a Suzi Boulevard and has been trying to sell his '86 Aspencade. He climbed on mine shimmied the bars and then did the same on his and said "OH YA!!! BIG difference". He's going to try it on his this weekend. We may have a 'two-fer' here!
 
For the little amount of time it takes, you might as well. I torqued the brace bolts to 23 ft-lbs on a guess (couldn't find it spec'd anywhere) and that didn't feel like it was about to strip so it should be pretty safe.
 

Latest posts

Top