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Friends,
Took out the bike today and the power is amazing. I easily got it to 80mph with plenty of throttle left. I think new gas with ATF in it is restoring the carbs. I got it started first try. Finding Neutral is the hardest part.

The shifting is still very hard both ways and you guys are right----When I am in first gear the bike can drive even with the clutch pulled all the way in. Most likely I need to "increase the tension" on the cable so that I can disengage the clutch (I hope I am making sense). The clutch cable looks fairly new. When I fully pull it in, it looks like I should be able to still go up on the "lever" at the distal end (close to the motor) a few more mm's (I am a complete idiot at this and I don't know what to call it). It feels like I am in the friction zone even with the clutch pulled all the way in. How many times can I guy try to describe what he is seeing before he gets labelled a total newbie (kind) or mentally disabled (unkind)?

Is there a tutorial on doing this and what tools may I need beyond the basic wrenches and pliers--How to adjust and set the clutch cable?

thanks
simba
 
simbaboy":1dowfij3 said:
Friends,
Took out the bike today and the power is amazing. I easily got it to 80mph with plenty of throttle left. I think new gas with ATF in it is restoring the carbs. I got it started first try. Finding Neutral is the hardest part.

The shifting is still very hard both ways and you guys are right----When I am in first gear the bike can drive even with the clutch pulled all the way in. Most likely I need to "increase the tension" on the cable so that I can disengage the clutch (I hope I am making sense). The clutch cable looks fairly new. When I fully pull it in, it looks like I should be able to still go up on the "lever" at the distal end (close to the motor) a few more mm's (I am a complete idiot at this and I don't know what to call it). It feels like I am in the friction zone even with the clutch pulled all the way in. How many times can I guy try to describe what he is seeing before he gets labelled a total newbie (kind) or mentally disabled (unkind)?

Is there a tutorial on doing this and what tools may I need beyond the basic wrenches and pliers--How to adjust and set the clutch cable?

thanks
simba


sorry I could not edit but wanted to add that the clutch lever feels tight without any slack at all. Will an oil change which I will be doing next week help?

thanks
samba
 
Your describing it fine.

I had a problem similar which turned out to be a plugged rear pump, lets hope that not it.

With no slack in the cable and still in the friction zone when pulled I'm still thinking the clutch plates may be gummed up and you should try replacing a quart of oil with atf and ride for a hundred miles or so and see if it improves.
 
My '81 was tough to pull and before I knew it, the cable snapped. Turned out, the cable was kinked under the tachometer! (The casing was worn off) I would try disconnecting the cable at the bottom side at the engine and be sure it is actually easy to move before you do anything drastic.
 
Thanks All,

Over the last two days I have easily put about 150miles on the GL1100.
The bike has smoothed out quite a bit and the shifting has really gotten better also (I put a few ounces of MMO in the oil and continued adding ATF to the fuel).

At any speed over 20-30MPH the bike rides straight like any arrow but at lower speeds I feel a "wobble" like I am riding in sand.. Its not bad at all but certainly different from my other bikes. It might just be the much greater weight of the GL, but I am wondering if it could be something else?

There is some surface rust on the exhaust and a very minor exhaust leak at joints on both sides. Any suggestions---I think it can be cleaned out and repainted. I certainly would not want to spend 3 times what I paid for the bike to do a full replacement.

This bike has already performed well above my expectations. My neighbors can't believe what I paid for it----But I am always honest. Even on the Title change at Sec of State I always put the real amount no matter what I paid. For some reason I am superstitious about keeping clean Karma about motorcycles.

Please give suggestions re: the exhaust pipes. here: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2693#p36216 Thanks.

Simba
 
simbaboy":3viurmah said:
Thanks All,

Over the last two days I have easily put about 150miles on the GL1100.
The bike has smoothed out quite a bit and the shifting has really gotten better also (I put a few ounces of MMO in the oil and continued adding ATF to the fuel).

At any speed over 20-30MPH the bike rides straight like any arrow but at lower speeds I feel a "wobble" like I am riding in sand.. Its not bad at all but certainly different from my other bikes. It might just be the much greater weight of the GL, but I am wondering if it could be something else?

There is some surface rust on the exhaust and a very minor exhaust leak at joints on both sides. Any suggestions---I think it can be cleaned out and repainted. I certainly would not want to spend 3 times what I paid for the bike to do a full replacement.

This bike has already performed well above my expectations. My neighbors can't believe what I paid for it----But I am always honest. Even on the Title change at Sec of State I always put the real amount no matter what I paid. For some reason I am superstitious about keeping clean Karma about motorcycles.

Please give suggestions re: the exhaust pipes. Thanks.

Simba

Simba, please start new individual topics about these things in the appropriate forum.
We'll be glad to help.
 
Hello All,

The bike is running very well--I have now named it "Rust Reformer" (every spot of surface rust on the bike got a shot of Rust-Oleum). The more I ride it the smoother it gets.
I will probably two tone it with Black and Yellow.

I will put the emblems back once I shine them up.. I have begun painting the rear fender as well.

Thanks All,
Simba
 

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