Hello. My first Goldwing 1978 GL1000

[user 5442]

Hi, I bought a 1978 GL1000 a month ago here in Phoenix Arizona and intend to ship her back home to Tasmania, Australia in a couple of weeks. Does anyone know if the original brake pads have any asbestos in them?

 

[Ansimp]

BrianofTas » Thu Nov 15, 2018 6:06 am[/url]":2r009b6k]
Hi, I bought a 1978 GL1000 a month ago here in Phoenix Arizona and intend to ship her back home to Tasmania, Australia in a couple of weeks. Does anyone know if the original brake pads have any asbestos in them?

I wouldn’t imagine that you still had 70s vintage pads in her but if so they would be asbestos. If so just put a new set of pads through her and keep the receipt for the import nazis. :yes:
Nice looking bike :good:

 

[desertrefugee]

Wow! Another nice one leaves Arizona. Congratulations!

 

[pidjones]

Get a manual (you need one anyway, and can download a pdf of one from several sites for free) and learn to change the pads yourself - it is very easy. The only tools that you will need is a 6mm hex wrench (a 3/8" drive socket type and ratchet works best), a ~6" C clamp, and a turkey baster. Supplies are brake pads, gloves, brake fluid, rags, and plastic trash bags. Two Allen bolts removed on each caliper allows you to remove the caliper from the pad carrier. Then the pads can be slid out and replaced with new ones. Don't loose the thin metal shims, spings, and caps! They are easily misplaced and made of unobtainium. You are supposed to be able to press the pistons back into the calipers by hand. Use the C clamp if you can't. Use the turkey baster (don't borrow the wife's!!!) to keep from overflowing the reservoir. Do one caliper at a time. Cover everything that you don't want the paint removed from with trash bags. You can tape them in place with painter's tape. The '78 is one of the easiest to replace pads on, and the pads are pretty cheap. All USA-sold pads have been asbestos free since tbe mid 90's.

 

[pidjones]

Oops! Just looked closer at your picture, and it looks like you have ~12mm head bolt instead of Allens. Torque is ~12-15 ft-lbs. I use a bit of blue locktite on them, too.

 

[joedrum]

nice bike welcome to classic ...

 

[mjanderson]

Welcome!

 

[user 5442]

Thanks for the advice guys. She has something like 60k miles up so I will play it safe and change the pads. She is running rough too and I’m hoping Sea Foam (high dose ) will improve her. She had been through a hot Phoenix summer sitting in the garage.

 

[aussiegold]

gday Brian,
good looking bike. i get down to TAS now and again. (got 2 sisters there). among other places, as we have started a travelling life. would like to see your bike one day. here is one of my GLs at Bradys Lookout.

 

[desertrefugee]

BrianofTas » Wed Nov 14, 2018 11:32 pm[/url]":6qi8883l]
Thanks for the advice guys. She has something like 60k miles up so I will play it safe and change the pads. She is running rough too and I’m hoping Sea Foam (high dose ) will improve her. She had been through a hot Phoenix summer sitting in the garage.

Mine sit through EVERY hot Phoenix summer in the garage. I do fire them up every couple of weeks with the occasional ride into the mountains. They do well in the hot, dry climate.

 

[Ohara]

Hello, :hi: Nice looking bike..

 

[dan filipi]

Definately a keeper! :yes:

 

[julimike54]

Welcome to The Forum and enjoy! Nice looking bike!

 

[wedoo2]

Recently read an article in the October issue of Rider magazine about Tasmania. Looks like a beautiful place with great beaches and mountains. Friendly people. Really enjoyed the article and it looks like a great place to ride.

 

[user 5442]

Thanks for the welcomes and advice guys. The previous owner told me this morning that the brakes were done less than 4 years ago so I won’t have to worry about the asbestos. Now, my charging system is failing....getting it checked over Saturday.
Is there a quick fix for a dodgy speedometer? The needle was very unsteady, then became noisy then reading high. I disconnected it...noise now stopped, so it seems to be the instrument itself is faulty. Would a squirt of wd40 do any good?
Tassie does have some good bike roads...plenty of hills and forest and a small population...

 

[aussiegold]

wedoo2 » Fri Nov 16, 2018 4:08 am[/url]":2cebfi1z]
Recently read an article in the October issue of Rider magazine about Tasmania. Looks like a beautiful place with great beaches and mountains. Friendly people. Really enjoyed the article and it looks like a great place to ride.

i havent been on the road talked about here but , i have been on most others and the east coast was pretty good.
in general the roads are in very good condition. well worth the trip.
https://motorbikewriter.com/charley-boo ... es-tassie/

 

[pidjones]

Thanks for the welcomes and advice guys. The previous owner told me this morning that the brakes were done less than 4 years ago so I won’t have to worry about the asbestos. Now, my charging system is failing....getting it checked over Saturday.
Is there a quick fix for a dodgy speedometer? The needle was very unsteady, then became noisy then reading high. I disconnected it...noise now stopped, so it seems to be the instrument itself is faulty. Would a squirt of wd40 do any good?
Tassie does have some good bike roads...plenty of hills and forest and a small population...

The speedometer (and tach) are sealed with a swaged band in the middle. I have had four, all with the same problem - the grease in the needle bearings gets old and stiff. However most noise and erratic operation is usually from the drive cable. Since you have it disconnected, pull the other end loose from the drive (one screw holds the cable in the drive - MAKE SURE YOU USE A JIS SCREWDRIVER!! The cable will pull out of the sheath and can be cleaned, inspected, and re-lubricated. If that doesn't quiet and settle the unit, you will have to pull the speedo apart. Doing so is just a test of patience as the chrome ring swaged around it must be pealed off. I use a medium screwdriver that I've ground and filed to make it work a bit better. You must move sloooowly around the ring (on the back side) at about 0.5 mm per movement gently peeling the ring's crimp up until the two halves release. (Usually takes two passes.) Once opened, you need to put just a drop of very thin (WD40 might work, but I prefer silicone spray) lubicant on the needle bearings. The grease thickens and really hampers operation. I've heard of the spinning magnet bearing also needing lube, but all of mine just needed tge needle bearings freed up. Don't just spray into the cable fitting. If any spray lube gets on the face, it will disolve the paint and make a mess. I tested mine using a battery powered drill and a pin from a used pop rivet. The crimp marks on the used (one size larger than 1/8" - don't remember what that is) pop rivet pin (the part that gets left over in the gun after tge rivet pops) fits pretty well. You could get fancy and make something better, but there always seems to be one of these in my battery drill pouch. Anyway, once it tests good, clamp it back together with two or three small ratchet clamps (very cheap at Harbor Freight) and go around the ring crimping it back on. There is a rubber gasket between the two halves that I threw away on a couple of mine because the thing isn't water-tight anyway and the gasket was real hard to position and get a good crimp.

 

[user 5442]

Thanks pidjones, I appreciate the good advice. In about two weeks I’ll be taking her to LA for the trip to Aus. I think I’ll leave the job until I get her home. I also saw a iTunes video showing how to remove the rim holding a similar instrument together, but I will have a closer look at the cable. I removed it at the roadside from both ends and it seemed to turn easily but I’ll have a closer look. Thanks again...I’m so pleased to have signed up with you and the group.

 

[pidjones]

Let me suggest that you watch for a very inexpensive tach or speedo on ebay. You can learn onit so that your technique is better when doing the better one. This is what I did (actually, mine came with a spare set).

 

[user 5442]

Ok, good idea....perfect my technique....cheers