Help diagnose by listening to my sick 1982 Goldwing GL1100

[mcgovern61]

As a reminder, ALWAYS turn the fuel off when parked.

I know a lot of guys don't but hydro lock is like dropping the bike. There are those that haven't yet but will eventually.
Hydro lock is the same thing. It will happen eventually.

Great tip Dan! I'm guilty of not turning off the gas! Geez, I never thought about a continued leak after the engine is off. If this is the original cause of the gas lock, then what else should I be looking at fixing?

Take a look at this thread...I had the same problem:
viewtopic.php?p=2784#p2784

 

[dan filipi]

CreatorsDream, if you buy a compression tester take one of the spark plugs along to match the thread.
The tester I bought came with the right adapter but many don't.

I uploaded the audio file to the forum.

If it won't play in the little player window then click on the file name below it to download and play on your puter.

 

[MSGT-R]

...What did the plugs look like when you took them out?

#2 looked wet. All others looked dry.

There's your #1 clue: If the #2 plug is indeed firing, it's being flooded by the #2 carb..

 

[joedrum]

wow dan that video knocked me off the forum......dont run this bike any more im glad i finaly herd it.....im sure its out of time ...and i also think that everything thats been said has played a part....i dont think anything is bent yet ....but might be a bent valve ...as to everything isaid to do....i think you sould take the valve covers off too....this is just what ithink im not trying to be a know it all so here it gose ....after you find out its out of time..loosen all the valve adjusters both sides back into the rockers and snug locknut so they wont come out...then turn the motor by the crank bolt clockwise as always you might catch the sticking valve or bent valve right here ...with all the adjusters loose and plugs out the resistance is not much and you will have good feel and if a valve is stuck ,bent it will most likely hang some cause there not much spring pressure with the adjusters loose ..no2 cylinder is the first suspect place...if it dosent seem to be hanging up anywhere....turn the crank to the T1 possistion and then turn it 90degrees or one quarter turn more ...this will sink the pistons down in the cylinders .....take the belts off ...in this possistions you can turn the cam pullys by hand and again you might be able to feel a sticcking valve threw your hand ....antway if not turn both cam pullys till they are in nuetral possision ..no pressure on valves ....turn the motor by hand again with crank bolt it sould realy be easy with the plugs out and no cam turning if it feels smooth and super free go ahead and spin it with the starter it sould realy spin listen for any noise....you sould get a good idea here if there is any low end problem....

if it passed all these test you could chance re timing it putting the belts on and adjusting the valves and starting it ....personaly i think if the lower end seems good i think its time to rebuild the heads....im thinking weak springs and carb issues cause this whole thing....weak springs can cause a valve to be thrown further down than its suppose to go causing the piston to hit it hard and slamming it back into the rocker and causing it to defrom slightly into a sticking state that can get worst and things like what happen to you ...this is only opinion but this kind stuff is what takes the belts out not the other way around like most say ...im thinking the lower end is fine and this bike needs both heads redone and carbs also ....hopfuly im full it :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

 

[mcgovern61]

Finally got a chance to listen to the file. My thread on the carbs leaking is only one issue. In my opinion and from the sounds I hear on the recording, it sounds like it is not firing on all cylinders (only 3) and it seems like the popping sound is a cylinder firing through bent valves. When you let the clutch out, you are putting a load on the engine and if one cylinder has bent valves but is able to fire, you will hear it pop like that in the exhaust and the intake area.

Compression test is first order to determine if it is bent valves.

 

[dan filipi]

Good explanation on how to diagnose it Joe!

I'd add that it can be a bit tricky getting both cams lined up ready for the belts after turning the engine with the belts off, especially if you haven't done it before.

You have to have the cams at a neutral position where no valve are open (backing the tappet adjusters all the way loose is the safest) and Top dead center with the "UP" on the cam pulleys up.
Now it's safe to rotate the engine to TDC on 1.
The whole idea is to keep from bumping any valves with the piston which will bend them.

Another thought (not sure if you explained this Joe) is pull the valve covers first thing before anything else.
Using the valve adjustment procedure, get the crank at TDC like your going to adjust the valves.
When at this point you will have excessive clearance if the valve head is bent.
This is what I'd do first, it's fast and doesn't cost anything.

 

[dan filipi]

Oh another thing comes into play here.

If the bike has been sitting over the winter with gas in the float bowls then you could have some plugged jets.

I helped a guy out with his 1100 that sat for 2 months with gas in them.
3 of 4 carbs had plugged idle jets, evidently they were clean when it was parked because it ran perfect.

 

[AApple]

I just lissened to the audio....Oh me Gawrsh!! :shock: :shock: :shock: I wouldn't run it anymore until the problem is found. It definitely sounds like it has a dead cylinder, # 2 would be my suspect, too. If you have an air compressor, you could back the valves off on the heads, and blow air down into the cylinder...if you get air back out of the intake or exhaust, you have a bent valve.
Something sounds like it is definitely hitting the piston, to me...could be a cylinder full of fuel, tho, from a dumpy carb....
I think you gots some wrenching to do on this one... :builder:

 

[mike in idaho]

It sounds a little bit like it's spitting back through a carbureter throat (a lean backfire) when it misses. Pull the air filter out and listen at the airbox with it running. A bent valve would be making noise constantly, this sounds too intermitant to be that. A low rpm miss-fire from bad carburation or ignition problems is going to make noise because there's a fair amount of backlash in the primary chain and the transmission shafts to get whipped back and forth when a cylinder misses.
Check the compression.

 

[danf]

Man, I so sorry this happened to ya, its getting spring and you gotta get this bike fixed..I rooten for ya.. :headscratch:

 

[CreatorsDream]

When doing a compression check;

1. Start switch to KILL or OFF
2. All spark plugs removed.
3. Throttle wide open
4. Choke open wide
5. Fully charged battery

Crank it until the gauge does not climb any more then repeat on the other 3.

A low cylinder will tell us a lot.

Okay, sorry for the delayed response. I had to go to Advance Auto to buy a universal compression gauge. Cost $40... The results are:
#4 - 165 psi
#2 - 167 psi
#1 - 170 psi
#3 - 171 psi

What is the standard compression for the GL1100?

So, next is replacing the timing belt and checking adjustments. I found this How-to and hope it will be enough to guide me.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/17422.html

Then to valve check?

 

[joedrum]

wow this is great ....i was thimking that the valves seemed okay ....the compression figures are great...i think the write up on the belt change is good but i would do it alittle different....man i did a nice how to for doing this in one of our threads i wish i could remember where it was pretty thorough.....i will try to find it :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

That's very good compression and tells us the valves and pistons are Ok.
Next up check valve timing.
After that it's into the carbs.

 

[joedrum]

im sorry i just cant find it ...maybe someone else can ..... :mrgreen: just go slow ....the pics in that thread you found are real good ... :mrgreen:

 

[MSGT-R]

I think the average compression is something like 155. 167 figures like that are terrific!

Fuel
Ignition
and also Spark Plug Wires. They can short across to ground or each other..

 

[CreatorsDream]

I think the average compression is something like 155. 167 figures like that are terrific!

Fuel
Ignition
and also Spark Plug Wires. They can short across to ground or each other..

So 155 is average? Is that from a new engine?

I'm assuming my next step is the timing belt. So I'm going to take the radiator off and go through the steps of checking what I currently have, then replace the timing belt and reset timing as per the how-to link I sent earlier. Since I am a total newbie to working on the GL1100, I am hoping you guys can guide me with 1,2,3 steps on diagnosing my problems. If you know of any good how-to's and which ones to take in order, I would greatly appreciate it!

Thank you all for the support and tips I've received so far!

enrique

 

[CreatorsDream]

Next up check valve timing.

So should I use "Roady's Most Excellent Valve adjustment Tutorial" at https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... bum_id=208

Shouldn't I do the timing belt thing first? If the timing is off, won't that affect valve timing?

enrique

 

[joedrum]

yes you need to check the timing go back some post and use the post i made to help you check the timing just check the timing and dont take the belts off ... it looks like your getting lucky here ...roadys thread is fine ...do you have the timing covers off yet .....after you check the timing post back

 

[MSGT-R]

So 155 is average? Is that from a new engine?

No.

 

[jdegase]

listened to the audio. and I have to agree your on the right track.
very good news about the compression test.
one other thing I'd like to mention is a hydro lock in cyl. #2 could have killed the spark plug.
I have had plugs actually die from being flooded badly.
you might check the plugs for spark before re installing them.
but do the timing belts and check the valve lash before testing the plugs...

please keep us up to date on your progress.