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Certainly would think we'd 1/2 it since its firing 2 plugs but the analyser should be telling the true deal.
At 22k these coils are not all that weak then.
Have you checked a neon coil or other for comparison?
 
this is a good thread cm85 and the speaker cable spark wire has me ...need to get cm to tell me exactly what i want ....tory ..dave ... and the cm85 coils setups ..have got me also ...there all looking rather good...and there sure is a need here ...im running out of coils that work
 
joedrum":3007xa8g said:
this is a good thread cm85 and the speaker cable spark wire has me ...need to get cm to tell me exactly what i want ....tory ..dave ... and the cm85 coils setups ..have got me also ...there all looking rather good...and there sure is a need here ...im running out of coils that work

I don't want to derail the thread from it's primary topic, the CBR coils, right?

But, I'll start with a begining from my point of view. I'll be as open as I can be right now.

It's only partially about the coils.

Let us take a module from the GL1000 Dyna "S" triggering set-up and look at it, for it is more than just a switching device.

IF we know what the circuit actually is inside the module, and then we know the individual components and their values, then we can start a baseline for modification.

What do we want to modify and why?

Imaging for a moment the evolution of Dyna to the "S" model ignition for our 1000's (or any other bike). If we go from the model "III" ignition set-up to the "S" set-up, we see that Dyna simply took the external "III" model driver and placed it within the casing of each individual "S" model module. The difference in the physical structures of the switching devices (modules, "III" vs. "S") may be a clue to this. Whereas the "III" model had its heat dissapating qualities embedded in the external, frame-mounted aluminum-housed driver, the "S" model relies on dissapating heat, as a heatsink, through the pick-ups baseplate. Not ideal in my opinion, and possibly a good reason we here of x-number of failures of the "S" model modules (3/4 module in my case, and from what I've been reading on the 'net). This is a side-point really, bt it's Dyna's way of reducing costs, re-packaging a basically unchanged "III" ignition to market something new and "improved?" to keep their wheel turning (just my opinion of course).

If we know the design limitations of a key individual part, its power transistor, and can then either exploit its maximum potential or change the part itself to give us what we want, then a higher level of performance might be found. Many variables happen here. I won't go into them now.

IF our usual supply voltage to these drivers (Dyna internal module "S" or the external module of the "III") is found through either system voltage or direct battery voltage, then we are not pushing these components to their electrical maximums. Again, many variables exist on how to do this reliably, day-in and day-out.

IF, for example, we do what the car stereo crowd does with their amplifiers, or what the CB crowd does with their amplifiers, then why can we not do the same? ...that is: "overdrive" the circuit (overdrive is incorrect, but the word has its place in 13.6vdc terms) to achieve higher performance from the components and still remain within maximum design limits. Now keep in mind, many in the stereo and cb realms run their equipment up to 20vdc input.

So, what is the design limit of input voltage to a Dyna driver. Well, that is the key. The coils are only part of the 22Kv equation.

Heat dissapation is the ultimate concern with any of it.

I'll be putting-up a datasheet on the exact transistor supplied in the Dyna "S" models' module with various techniques on manipulating voltages and alternatives to transistor replacement. I've many notes to sort through. An example is a mil-spec power resistor replacing our standard ballast resistor choices using not only a finned aluminum heat-sink, but fan-controlled "water" cooling to keep it at a maximum temperature and no higher much in the same way that your computer is using for it's motherboard processor, assuming you're running a water-cooled processor. I've a lot of stuff to sort just in the ignition area.

I'm certain I've forgot something in my typing-to-thinking process...

I will say that my ignition sees a minimum of no less than 15.4vdc at any RPM, no matter what. It has a input celing of 19vdc and no higher.
 
dan filipi":34zngkfo said:
Certainly would think we'd 1/2 it since its firing 2 plugs but the analyser should be telling the true deal.
At 22k these coils are not all that weak then.
Have you checked a neon coil or other for comparison?

Nope. Haven't done anything with the Neon-type coil. Had meant to. Got stuck on the stuff I was already into; Honda coils, Dyna, other Jap-bike switchers and parts.

I do have some Toyota coils though. Feedback coils that I'm not certain are worth even looking into any further than my aquisition of them. I don't want to computer-control anything.
 
well im pretty sur the complete dyna setup and coils are going to be fine on the 1200 mod in doing but the burnt up igniters and cracked coils of the 80 1100 im working on needs something differant...
 
A glimpse into a Dyna "S" model module:
 

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.... if we could just step back a few steps, if I am taking this in right the neon coil and the (?) other one will work with the 1200 mod that joedrum is working on, now there's a guy who's into some serious tweaking, my interest, at least for the moment is this coil modification a positive or a negative for A) 80/1100 .... would a tuned/less baffled exhaust be even more of a plus with the coil? ..... and B) would this coil mod be an improvement to an 84/1200? I'm not going to go, at least for the near future, into swapping out heads, bigger motors into smaller frames etc, different carb baskets etc .... for now simple and tuned is a place to start. Had a 96 Yamaha Royal Star a few years back which I put a "Dyna" adjustable electronic ignition system into and that made a very noticeable improvement; also, had put on a set of Jardines ..... gotta say the sound that comes out of a V4 is something else! .................crowe.......... :Egyptian:
 
I guess I need to bring this thread back on track.
It is not a thread about converting to a GM DIS coil or chrysler coil (neon,PT cruizer,stratus...) there are other threads already out there for that.

It is about improving the stock ignition with use of the CBR coils.I dont know that this is the best option,just easiest.
I can not post all the good info from the CB1100F forum do to you needing a password to access it but can attest to the improvement on my 900.
 
Joe
I believe that they are all pretty much about the same,with the exception of red wires on some,but I replaced them anyway.
I just searched EBAY for "CBR coils" and quit a few came up.Both the 600s and 1000s will work.
 
Dan,I believe that is the correct coils,but I noticed it is missing the wire nuts.
I think you can probably find a pair at a better price if you keep looking.
 
I've been watching ebay for a few days and the best deal I've found was $49 including shipping for a pair with wires and nuts so I pulled the trigger.
Should have them by next weekend.
 
CBR coils came today.
These things are little compared to our coils
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I won't have a chance to do anything with them until maybe Sunday and when I have the false tank off I'll post a side by side shot with the 1100 coils.
 
I'll be interested to see if you, Dan, have the same positive results that tory has had.
It almost seems to go to be true - swapping in another Honda part and getting noticeable improvements for minimal $$$ and minimal fabricating...
This may become another 'must do' on our old bikes.....
 
These coils are made different.
There is a tan colored epoxy over the coils, visible on the ends.

What the heck. These are used on the GL1500 and 95 and newer (think that's the years) so who knows, they may be much hotter.
 
MP08's?
Is that what they're using?
Those are used on the GL1500's as well.
They (Honda) has used the MP08's on all kinds of bikes, including scooters.

As with most coils swaps, I suspect simply that a "new" coil (be it newer, or something different than the one it's replacing) is all that's happening with this.

If the coil is smaller than a 1100 coil, why would I possibly want it when my key proponent for upgrading is to increase voltage and effectively dissipate heat? How is smaller better when all variables remain the same?

Not looking for any real answer, I just don't see any real benefit when the claim is for a hotter coil. Does anyone have specifications for any of these coils.

Sometimes just cleaning a connection gives vast improvement on 30+ year old wired connections.

Maybe I'm jumping the gun here. I'm sure Dan will try them out objectively. I'm anxious for his results.

Edit: Ya'll got a couple posts in while I was writing this up...
 
slabghost":1h55c829 said:
Hey Dan why not try the relay mod first just to compare?
I'm not going to do the relay at first simply because I'm looking for a direct changeover and comparison with nothing else done.

Unfortunately the only test equipment I have is my eyes and seat of the pants but I'm a pretty good judge as far as that goes.

It could be just simply "newer" coils will render improvement over 30 year old coils. With as weak I've seen my spark, any improvement will be easy to see and hopefully a relatively easy improvement.
Of course the Neon coils are cheap and fairly easy to install but that's another topic.
 

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