I have no words...

[TheRepoGuy]

Should have changed these out before I put the head on but I got a little anxious. Off to the parts store tomorrow then gotta figure out how to get the bloody thing out of the head! Stepping away from her for the night now! I’ll be replacing all 4 intake bolts with new hex head ones. Guess old parts like old people break easily when torqued to specs [emoji1787][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

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[saganaga]

Very simple - tap it on the center, drill it out, insert an easy out, have the easy out break, tear off the whole part and bring it to a machine shop.

 

[Omega Man]

Ayeeeee, I hate when that happens. Right advice above! :good:

~O~

 

[TheRepoGuy]

Very simple - tap it on the center, drill it out, insert an easy out, have the easy out break, tear off the whole part and bring it to a machine shop.

On the agenda tomorrow - my tap set has gone MIA [emoji849]


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[mcgovern61]

:head bang: :Awe:

 

[dan filipi]

Foot pound torque wrench has way way too much leverage for those bolts and probably not accurate anyway. I even hesitate trusting inch pound torque wrenches. Those flanges are sealed with O rings. The bolts don’t need to be any more than seated plus a bit more. Proper tightness is in the feel. Use a short wrench or 1/4” ratchet and resist the urge to crank them.

Tape and cover those intakes very tightly to prevent even the smallest particle getting in when you drill.

 

[pidjones]

+1 on Dan's comment. Also, if you are using click-type wrenches, be aware when adjusting (you DO back it all the way off when finished, right?) that the first time it touches the spring is the minimum major increment of torque - on a 3/8" drive it is usually 5 ft-lbs. Not accounting for this puts every setting 5 ft-lbs too high! O-ring flanges usually only need to be tightened enough to compress the o-ring and keep it frim vibrating loose. On these acorn nuts I use a 10mm on my 1/4" drive screwdriver handle.

 

[joedrum]

Such a common mistake...those bolts need no torque at all ..o ring seals quick and keeps bolts from vibrating loose ...heads get hot and over tighten bolts get locked and break off

 

[ekvh]

If they snapped while being tightened, there’s a good chance you can slot the top and get them out. Spray penetrant around it, watch to see if air bubbles come up. If they do, you’ll most likely get them out. A small flat chisel will work to create the slot so that small punch can start tapping it CCW. Still stuck, my next step would be a welder. Left handed drill bits work too, but you have get the hole started dead center.

 

[dan filipi]

Blow those inverted holes clear before assembly. Any crap in them will block them from tightening properly. Liquid can hydro-lock the bolt and actually stop it from tightening.
Use compressed air and a nozzle, the electronics air in a can works good too. I've used a strong shop vacuum with a small hose taped on the end in a pinch. Not preferred though..

 

[TheRepoGuy]

Spitting it was my first goal honestly - gonna use a dremel and Notch the bolt then get it out. If that doesn’t work then I’ll go with the tap


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[GTC@MSAC]

I've been wrenching for so long, the only time I pick up a torque wrench is for head gasket jobs, and I still use a beam-type at that. Smaller engines like a 300 or less , I hardly needed that, just used a standard tightening pattern to avoid head warpage. Joe would get where I am coming from.

 

[desertrefugee]

^^^ +1

What he said. Exactly.

 

[brianinpa]

Take a look at post number 18

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=12098&start=15

 

[TheRepoGuy]

Take a look at post number 18

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=12098&start=15

I slotted it and unscrewed it without any issues. She’s been re-timed and is back to working order now. Needs new rubber then gonna sync the carbs. Tires are inbound and should be here Monday. Then she’s going to get new jets for the open exhaust and I’ll be done for now lol


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[GTC@MSAC]

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

 

[desertrefugee]

Well, you sure have earned the rest! This one would have tried to patience of any man.

 

[brianinpa]

TheRepoGuy » Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:42 pm[/url]":2lcwtv0c]

Take a look at post number 18

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=12098&start=15

I slotted it and unscrewed it without any issues. She’s been re-timed and is back to working order now. Needs new rubber then gonna sync the carbs. Tires are inbound and should be here Monday. Then she’s going to get new jets for the open exhaust and I’ll be done for now lol


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I wasn't that lucky. Story of my life :head bang:

 

[DaveKamp]

Fortunately, this type of break is USUALLY recoverable the way you did it. The other method I use, is spot-welding a nut to it, spraying penetrant generously, then tapping on it with a pointed punch, then backing it out (usually) by hand. Don't feel bad about it- When a fastener like that is re-used in an aluminum block/head, it's frequently internally fatigued already, because the coefficient of thermal expansion is pretty darned high. Like Joe said, it doesn't take much to seal, and as the casting warms, it increases in size, so the bolt tension rises. This starts tiny fractures at the root of the threads, so when you're torquing 'em, they tend to tear through at those tiny fractures. Only solution is to use new bolts, and expect it to happen again...