I hear metal against metal when I push the starter sometimes

[5150jim]

I have to ask if this has happen to anyone. I had to replace the cam on the right side so I replaced the timing belts at the same time. Well I got it all back together & ran it for about 15 min then I remembered that I had forgot to plug in the fan so I let it cool down for an hr or so & plugged the fan back in & tried to start it back up & it just went clank like it hit metal against metal when I push the starter. I also tried to turn the engine with a 12mm socket on the stator but it was locked up. I pulled the valve cover on the right side & look in & found nothing. So I pulled off the radiator and with a 19mm wrench on the crankshaft I turned the engine over with no problem. Not sure what happen. I know it was locked up but now it’s not.
I have been working on this bike for over a yr. now. It sat for 5 yrs. & it has been one thing after another. I rebuild the carbs in Oct. checked the float settings & did Alley Kat's Bench Sync. & I put the carbs back on & started it up. And I noticed that the fuel pump was leaking so I swapped the fuel pump from the GL1000 to the GL1100. Took it for a quick run the down the street & run good at speed just not at idle. I set the valves & then ran the bike for a bit but it stopped pumping gas & I noticed the tech quit. I pulled the fuel pump back off & found that the back part of the cam broke off. Got a used cam & installed it. Set the valves & replaced the timing belts. And that’s where I am today. I did check the timing marks & everything looks correct but I have tried to start it a couple of different times & sometime it will hit metal against metal when I push the starter & other times it runs fine. I’m afraid to ride it in fear that it will do something to the engine. Anyone got any ideas?
TNX, Jim

 

[joedrum]

don't ride it .....and don't start it ....take the plugs out ...this will make easy to turn need to find out whats up first

 

[Steve83]

+1 on Joe's advice. It might be the starter or starter clutch, since you said it runs fine sometimes. It's not fun to pull the starter, but it's not too bad either. Double and triple check those timing marks!

 

[RBG]

recheck your belt/cam wheels on their marks..if off at all not good..valves will hit the pistons..but the sometimes seems odd either they hit or they don't??? Something in a cylinder depending where it lands = noise??

 

[joedrum]

yes use vacume cleaner on all plug holes trying to clear them of something I can work I know ...ive done it

 

[5150jim]

I can do that. I take the vacuum & clean out the cylinders. Anything is worth trying.
Also will check the timing marks again but I do have to start the bike to get it to lock up before I pull the starter. I think I have tried that before & it wasn't the starter but I have everything documented in WORD & I don't see where I did that because I put date & the things I do almost every time I work on the bike.
I really don't want to tear down the engine but it may come to that.
TNX for your input.
Jim

 

[dan filipi]

I'm wondering if the starter spraque locked up or possible the bearing it rides on...hmmm.

You had it running for 15 minutes which would suggest valve timing is ok.

 

[5150jim]

dan filipi » Tue Jul 30, 2013 10:54 am[/url]":uifwreg3]
I'm wondering if the starter spraque locked up or possible the bearing it rides on...hmmm.

You had it running for 15 minutes which would suggest valve timing is ok.

I did forget to tell everyone that the bike only has 24,317 miles on it.
But the starter could still be the problem.
TNX, Jim

 

[2_Wing]

What about the "back side of the cam that fell off"?
Any loose pieces floating around? Were the broken pieces found and removed? Just a thought.

 

[joedrum]

lock up happen after cam deal im rather sure something made it break ...and im not thinking starter ...im thinking valve trane and cylinder still

 

[slabghost]

Any chance something dropped through an open plug hole? One other member here had that a while back. If you have a bore scope check the cylinders carefully and maybe search through them with a small magnet. Piston will need to be near the top to push whatever is there in reach of the magnet.

 

[5150jim]

2_Wing » Wed Jul 31, 2013 4:45 am[/url]":fkqx16fr]
What about the "back side of the cam that fell off"?
Any loose pieces floating around? Were the broken pieces found and removed? Just a thought.

I took the cam into an old Goldwing expert (Warren) at the Honda of Oroville shop about 30 miles south of my town because the Honda shop here in Chico doesn't have anyone that knows anything the older bikes. The only problem is that they closed after some 30 yrs.
But I talked to Warren & showed him the cam & he got me an exact replacement (used cam) & said that someone had dropped my cam to make it break like that. I also saw blue form-a-gasket behind the oil seal when I replaced the seal that is behind the timing belt pulley so it looks like someone had the cam out before I got the bike.
And I may have done something when I replaced the fuel pump because right after I replaced the fuel pump is when the can broke. And it is only that part that broke & the only piece was in the fuel pump housing & I cleaned that out really good before I put it back together.

 

[5150jim]

slabghost » Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:08 am[/url]":778azy2y]
Any chance something dropped through an open plug hole? One other member here had that a while back. If you have a bore scope check the cylinders carefully and maybe search through them with a small magnet. Piston will need to be near the top to push whatever is there in reach of the magnet.

Any time I have the plugs out I always put rags in the holes just to keep dirt & anything else out but I do have a tool/bolt grabber that I can put down inside each cylinder.
Not a bad thought. TNX.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmmmmm this is puzzling

 

[5150jim]

After letting my bike sit for way to long I thought I would start it up & maybe sync the carbs. It ran but it just wasn't firing on all 4 so I took it for a ride around my mobile home park for about 10 min & parked it in front of the house & turned it off. It only sat for a min or so & when I went to start it back up it did that clunk thing again. I could not move the 12mm stator bolt so I got a 19mm & turned the crank shaft. Then it started right up. I pulled it back up in the driveway & let it cool down for a couple hrs so I could pull the screws out & put in the fittings for the hoses to the gauges to sync it. I ran it again but it would not idle so I gave up & just let it cool down to pull the fittings out & I saw gas in the clear plastic hose on the # 1 cylinder. I pulled the hose & drained it into a bucket & got at least 8 to 10 oz out the cylinder. Also got more out by pulling the plug & hitting the starter once. So I think the clunk is the piston hitting a lot of gas & locking it up. I pulled the carbs that rebuilt last Oct & going to look at the float setting on the # 1 carb. Hopefully that will end my problem.

 

[dan filipi]

Yep, hydrolocking is what it sounds like.

Try running the carbs dry either by running it til it dies with the gas turned off or removing the bowl drain screws then give the bowls a love tap with the handle of a screw driver. That has freed a stuck float for me a few times.

 

[zman]

When you remove the carbs be sure and test the floats off the bike by filling the carb bowls up with about a 5 foot hose and let it sit, I tested mine overnight to be sure the carbs didnt leak.
Check your floats real close up, as well look at the spring that presses on the float, the springs are as thin as a hair and can get weak or stick. Maybe new float valves wouldt hurt, I put KL type in mine and they are working great.

 

[5150jim]

I pulled the carbs off yesterday to check the float on #1 carb & found the problem. The brass bolt that holds the float valve was unscrewed almost all the way out. I tightened it up & I'm going to put them back on today. I rebuilt them many months ago but had a problem with the cam shaft & then time got away from me. This has been an on-going project now for over a yr. The bike sat for 5 yrs so now that it’s going to start raining I think I'm ready to ride it. lol
Good thing I live in Cali & ride all yr around.
TNX for everyone's help.
:music:

 

[5150jim]

Okay I'm back. I took it for a short ride around the mobile home park the where I live the other day but my bike won’t stay running & won’t idle. I used Starting fluid to check for air leaks & it looks like may be the seals on the intakes are the problem. Somebody told me to check them with Vaseline. If they are the problem (which I’m pretty sure they are) is there anything that can be done to soften up the rubber. I saw one thing about boiling the rubber. Does anyone know if this works? Also is this just a temporary fix?
Also Randakk has & I quote “GL1000 / GL1100 Intake Clamps: Set of 4. These gorgeous intake clamps are very useful. They can often solve minor intake vacuum leaks on "tired" intake rubbers.” But it also says “This product is currently sold out.” Does anyone have any experience with these or something similar?
If I can find really good quality clamps, do you think it will help?
TNX, Jim

 

[slabghost]

A good layer of vaseline will soften the rubber but not right away. Are you talking the end fitting to carbs or the end fitting to the heads? If it's the carb end maybe car hose clamps can be tightened a bit more to seal?