ianstaley's single build with VW plenum and Weber 32/32 dft

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Ian,

NOTE: IT IS THE METHOD PIONEERED BY DAN, I JUST COPIED IT.

I hadn't responded earlier because it looked like your adapter plate was already in the works. But since it is not yet made, here is what I did with same carb and manifold as yours.

I started out trying to elongate the carb holes but that seemed like it was going to take a very long time.

So I removed the manifold studs and filled the existing bolt holes with threaded aluminum pieces that I made by threading some 5/16" rod that I happened to have. I cleaned the manifold threads and the new inserts with lacquer thinner and used JB weld to glue them in place. Then I drilled and tapped new holes in the manifold to line up with the carb holes. Reinstalled the studs and I was done.

Note that I moved all 4 studs; that is because, if I just moved the studs at one end and left the other studs alone, the new stud holes would cut into the manifold wall. By moving all 4, all stud holes are on the outside of the manifold wall.

Brian

 
Ian, I know your trying to figure out how to add plenum base heat.
Since it looks like you have a good collection of tools and threaders, is there enough meat on the bottom tab to tap a bolt hole? A single center bolt was all I needed to pull my heat plate tight against the plenum.
Even if your threaded bolt hole goes into the vacuum space, it can be sealed with loc-tite or like you did with epoxy for the carb bolts.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105206#p105206:7hum74c0 said:
dan filipi » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:04 am[/url]":7hum74c0]
Nice work ian.
I like your solution with your style manifold. Definately more elegant and something to be proud of when it all lines up proper like it should.

Dan,

Just between you and I, the studs didn't line up perfectly and I still had to do a bit of messaging with a round file to get the carb to slide onto the manifold.

But really it is a pretty easy way. Other than waiting for the JB weld to cure, the whole thing probably didn't take for than an hour or so. And, as you have shown Dan, you can use 8mm steel bolts to fill the stud holes instead of making threaded alum.. And then you could screw them down tight and not need the JB weld. I just like messing around making stuff.

Brian
 
Dan thanks for the praise but it was Brian that did that to his manifold, I still have a good selection of tools mind you take a look below..... A tidy desk is a tidy mind what's wrong with me. this room is about 10ft x 6 ft I also have a 3hp compressor with a 50 litre tank under the desk. :builder:

Take a look at the MAN room.













Remember the song "Dazed and Confused" that's me. :rocks:
 
this thread shows that the ... lets say tom carb dft 32-32 dose not bolt directly too the type four set up ... it is taped for the bigger bolt pattern weber 32-36 carbs... some rethread .. some modify carb body ...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105247#p105247:11uhvlih said:
canuckxxxx » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:52 pm[/url]":11uhvlih]
I think I see a 3" x 3" clear space that you work at on that bench. :salute:
Nah that has now been ocupied by my coffee cup :smilie_happy:
 
Okay so new problem (small) I have opened one of my clocks the speedo to fit white faces to match the old white of the new VDO's I will use comments please see pictures below. I need to remove both the large face and the small temp face for replacement. Thanks in advance Ian





And does the rubber come off shown Ian

 
Now there is a thread on doing this elsewhere but I don't think I am diverting from the build or strip down, it hasn't moved forward a lot, but here it is cold and wet, and my garage has no light, heat or electricity so have had to do other things like the clocks.
 
idk about part number. I just cut one out from sheet of carb gasket material you can get from autoparts store.
That way when you remove for some reason you just cut a fresh one for reinstall.
dave
 

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