I'm so screwed

[D-50Dave]

Well, you guys have had a VERY bad influence on me. :fiddle: You've made working on these bikes look easy enough for me to try. I need a new back tire. (I got just short of 9,000 miles outta this one) I call my local dealership and get the owner working the parts desk; he was also a schoolmate of mine and I've known him for 50 years. He says if I take the rim off they'll mount the tire for free while I wait if I'm there first thing when they open Saturday. So after riding home from work (I hope not for the last time :beg: ) I put it up on its center stand and get out my tools. :builder: A little over an hour later I liberate my rear rim & tire from the bike. :heat: I'm convinced I'll never be able to wiggle it back in place. :help: I had parts falling out as I dismantled that I have no idea where they came from. :read: I have a shopping list of parts I need to put it back together. (brake pads & shock bushings) I'm going to have to tap the collective consciousness of all of you to get me back on the road before Labor Day. Thanx in advance, Dave :thanks:

 

[slabghost]

:smilie_happy: Not to worry you are NOT screwed. You may have to post a few pictures but we'll help you get it back together. :BigGrin:

 

[backlander]

The first time is always the most frightening !! No big deal, just put all the parts in a bag so you don't loose the spacers.

 

[chilidawg]

We're here for you.

Been down that road! Ain't sure about the parts that fell out, (but we'll get back to that.)

But getting the wheel back in, I do.

First remove the rear fender extension piece. Then let the air out of the tire & then get someone to push real hard against the front of the bike while you fight in the rear wheel. Because you don't want to push the bike off the center stand, that would really suck! :swoon:

It will go in, really it will.

 

[Rednaxs60]

I have a digital copy of the 1100 service manual. I f you would like PM me with email address. I use wetransfer to share large files.

Cheers

 

[D-50Dave]

The parts were a couple of clips from the brake pads and washers from the brake side of the axle; I didn't notice them till they hit the floor so I don't know where they get "sandwiched". I was thinking of a block and tackle to raise the back higher and them lower it back with tire in place. I have an after-market light bar down low that I think is making it harder than stack and I REALLY don't want to have to remove it. (check my album for pix) Look for updates Saturday afternoon. Thanx, Dave

 

[D-50Dave]

backlander » Yesterday, 9:44 pm[/url]":3uo63auy]
The first time is always the most frightening !! No big deal, just put all the parts in a bag so you don't loose the spacers.

My "bag" is the garage floor around the bike. For better or worse, I have always bunched parts on the floor near where I took the off.

 

[Ohara]

I use the same bag, this will end well.

 

[mcgovern61]

FYI, we do have the 1100 service manual in the gallery! :yes:

 

[brianinpa]

D-50Dave » Fri Jun 09, 2017 5:57 am[/url]":2smhmfej]
The parts were a couple of clips from the brake pads and washers from the brake side of the axle; I didn't notice them till they hit the floor so I don't know where they get "sandwiched". I was thinking of a block and tackle to raise the back higher and them lower it back with tire in place. I have an after-market light bar down low that I think is making it harder than stack and I REALLY don't want to have to remove it. (check my album for pix) Look for updates Saturday afternoon. Thanx, Dave

For my 87 1200, I went through the same thing with the rear wheel/tire. I really didn't want to remove the entire rear end a third time, so I considered my options.

I have an access hole in my garage ceiling, so I hung a cargo strap around a ceiling joist. I connected a come-along to the cargo strap hooks and connected another cargo strap to the rear shock area and lift away. Once I got the wheel/tire in, I lowered the bike back down so it wouldn't swing in the breeze while I was working on it. It was a lot easier than removing all of the rear bags/bars.

 

[Rednaxs60]

I've started to use small clear bins you buy at Walmart to put the parts in as I take them off. Had a prop shaft spring go for a walkabout in the garage last year and still haven't found it.

 

[mcgovern61]

We get food products in real good tupperware type containers (lunchmeat and stuff like that). I clean out and save the containers and they make great parts bins when doing complex projects (like carb cleaning!)

 

[D-50Dave]

So, getting the tire mount tomorrow morning. Is there things I should add wheel bearing grease to? Is there 90W oil in the differential? Do I put the diff in the wheel and then slide onto the driveshaft or other way round? I'm sure I'll have more questions tomorrow. Thanx, Dave

 

[chilidawg]

Before the wheel goes in, put some Molybednum disulphide grease on the splines, not too much because what it don't need will spin off.

Once the wheel is past the fender, hook it up onto the splines.

And yes, the final drive, (differential) does take 90 weight oil.

 

[D-50Dave]

The brake pads wore unevenly; one was more worn than the other. What should I use to lube the caliper mounting bolts?

 

[chilidawg]

The mounting bolts don't need anything.

The pins that the pads slide on should have some anti-seize, just so's you can get them off easier next time.

 

[D-50Dave]

Thanx, Chilidawg. I thought maybe the caliper wasn't "floating" properly. If I drain the differential, how much do I put back in? How about torque specs? I have a torque wrench, though I usually have a "feel" torque wrench with 3 setting: pretty tight, real effin tight, not too tight or you'll strip it. :smilie_happy:

 

[chilidawg]

It's actually really hard to "F" this up.

Take off the vent at the top and drain what's in there from the plug at the bottom.

Then remove the flange bolt from the middle, fill it up until oil comes out of the bottom of the middle bolt and it's done.

I never used a torque wrench for rear brake jobs, just give it that good 'n' tight feel.

 

[D-50Dave]

The diff is off now and lying on the floor draining is easy. I'll just orient to fill. Thanx, Dave

 

[desertrefugee]

I disagree with all the advice here, so far. (Although actually, you should pay attention to these fellers).

You absolutely will not get that wheel back in place until you have uttered the requisite number of four letter words - and in precisely the correct sequence. At that point, it'll slip right in. Sometimes a stern look at the brake caliper bracket helps, too.

<<EDIT: Sheesh. I just read backlander's comment on the 1800 salvage thread. Sort of makes me look like a plagiarist - although I hadn't seen his entry over there. Still applicable! >>