JustBill's '83 Aspencade Restoration

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JustBill

JustBill

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Messages
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Location
WI
Hello,

I picked up this '83 Aspencade last saturday. It hasn't run in probably 10-15yrs. The guy I got it from has had it for 6-7yrs. and had intentions of rebuilding, but he never got around to it. I told him I was looking for a bike and he offered to giver her up to me along with a '82 Interstate parts bike. I still have to pick up the '82 but I already pulled the starter off of it.

Saturday's mission was to get it to crank over and see if there was compression and spark. Both of which checked out, but I couldn't do a compression test because my tester didn't have the right thread. I knew the carb's needed cleaning because the throttle couldn't be turned. So I starting pulling the carbs. At 1 am sunday, I finally got the carb's out!

Sunday I spent pulling the rear saddle bags and all the light bars and accessories on the back end.

Monday evening I pulled the rear wheel and worked on cleaning the carbs. Found out we have a ultrasonic cleaner at my work! So I will be using that to clean them.

Tuesday I pulled the fuel tank out cause there is some rust in the tank. I am still researching and am open to any advice as to how to clean the inside of the tank up. It's not terrible but definately needs to be de-rusted and cleaned.
 
83' 1100 are Nice bikes great find.

That starter can be rebuilt. and is better than the newer Chinese starters.

I took my Gas Tank to the Radiator shop along with my Radiator. They clean them out really good and if yours doesn't flow they snake out the gas tube on Gas Tanks to make sure they flow.

They also pressure and flow test you Radiator. Cost me $50.00 for the two.

Or you can unscrew the gas float/pickup on your gas tank to make more accessible, get a Non-aerosol quart/gallon of Brake cleaner, put some in slosh it around, let it sit for a few days, Drain it. Blast Compressed Air through all the fuel line's to make sure they are clear.

If nothing else it will be cleaner and you will be able to see more.

I am sure someone else will ring in on Tank coatings or go the electrolysis route
 
You could go electrolysis or let it soak in vinegar or muriatic acid. I think the radiator shop cleaning probably the best option and it certainly wouldn't hurt to get radiator cleaned and checked.
 
Guess I haven't thought of the the radiator condition yet, thanks! There appears to be some type of red coolant in the coolant bottle. Do these typically use the red coolant or green? I was planning to drain and refill with Peak Antifreeze, as that was what I saw recomended somewhere.
 
As long as the antifreeze says "no silicates" the color doesn't matter.
For all we know ALL antifreeze contains NO silicates anymore, but many don't specifically say it on the bottle.

As an FYI, I just changed the coolant in my 06 Chevy van.
The manuals says "to use silicate free coolant which is safe for aluminum engines"
I just thought I'd point that out because our engines are also aluminum.
 
Well,

I should have mentioned, when I have taken the last four goldwing radiators to have them flow checked, they all came back at no Charge, unless you have them paint your radiator, I usually do that my self.

The last four checked out good and cost me Nothing,

I was only charged for one Radiator and one gas tank, one time.

I like when he says no charge, there's nothing wrong with it.
 
westgl":1c513jei said:
Well,

I should have mentioned, when I have taken the last four goldwing radiators to have them flow checked, they all came back at no Charge, unless you have them paint your radiator, I usually do that my self.

The last four checked out good and cost me Nothing,

I was only charged for one Radiator and one gas tank, one time.

I like when he says no charge, there's nothing wrong with it.
Click to expand...
Is this shop owned by a relative? :headscratch:
 
Nope,

On Radiators if they do not find a problem, No Charge, Nice to deal with someone that is Just honest.
 
Well, Good news tonight!

I put the cleaned carbs back together and re-assembled them onto the bike. Pretty easy to do with the fuel tank being out of it. I then set up a small IV fuel tank i got at work (we make various fuel tanks as one of our many product lines). As soon as it got some gas and a little choke it fired right off!!! Yay!!! It actually sounded pretty good, a little valve noise, but maybe that will go away with time? I also checked the stator output, with a few engine revs, it put out 13.2v on the top end, so it looks like the stator is functioning fine!!! That was another thing I was concerned about. At this point it looks like I won't have to pull the engine out of it!!! I do plan on changing the timing belts though and flushing the coolant.

The bad news for the night was, when I got home from work, I found out our washing machine crapped out!! Trouble code indicated a motor control board issue. Looks like we are shopping for a new washer!
 
yea if only miss daisy would do that.. just got the wife a new washer&dryer. wasn't all that bad.just the plane jane i just hope they last as long as the old set did. they were stilll working but not to well 19 years. evry day at least 2 loads. good luck.... bill
 
Yah!!! It seems that when thing start going good Mr Troublr steps in to distract time and money from the wing projects. This past week I lost the water pump in my 1 ton diesl truck and then a 'U' joint fell apart on my work van. REplaced the "U" joints but came up short on the Pump. Oh well there is next month. :Egyptian: Best of luck on all of your projects :music2: :music2:
 
Nice when the carbs come out fine, what a PIA those are.

13.2 V is low on the high end. You should see about 14.5 but if your battery is low that will lower your voltage reading.
Just sayin ya might want to run it a while longer with a fully charged battery and check the readings.

If the yellow stator wire plugs are corroded or overheated this will cause low voltage also.
 
Thanks Dan,

My temporary battery was low, so, that could account for a lower reading. I'll be picking up a new battery soon and re-test. The yellow stator wire plug/connectors looked pretty good, I packed em with dielectric grease.

Here's a question, How do I get the headlight/bulb out? Low beam works, hi beam doesn't.
 
It front of the gauges is a knob to adjust the headlight up and down.
That knob needs to come off (tiny phillips head or allen) then take off the large nut and washer.
Now the headlight bucket will come forward so the bulb can be unplugged.
There's a spring clip holding the bulb in.

Be careful not to touch the bulb glass or bump it going in. The oil on your fingers will reduce the life of the bulb.
If you do touch it rub it clean with a soft towel (cotton T shirt) or paper like kleenex moistened with rubbing alcohol.
 
Well, today I pulled the radiator so I could get to the timing belts. Radiator removal was a bit challenging! It just didn't want to come out of the top. There were 2 small metal tabs at the top that seem to be in the way. Removing the timing covers was going good until the left side cover bolt snapped off! This is going to be fun trying to get that broken bolt out!

Both timing belts say "Honda" on them. So, maybe they are the original belts? One thing interesting, the left side belt was somewhat more loose then the right side. Maybe that explains the slight clatter I was hearing on the left side head. What do you think?
 

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