Left field question -

[TheRepoGuy]

Just want to see what y’all think -
Back history, yesterday I ran some mystery oil through my old girl, kinda thinking after watching the RPM’s climb at idle I may have had a sticky valve on the right side. Tested this theory by letting the bike warm up, tossing on the leather gloves and feeling the headers of which the left side was warm enough to light a stogie where the right was minimally hot at all.

Checked the PG’s and found a burnt set of wires from where I had a switch go bad and cooked some spaghetti...they’re within the correct ohm range, have spark at the plugs without a doubt (got zapped when I pulled them off the right side) and still it’s not very warm.

Now - I have two thoughts. One, I am not running a stock exhaust system though both of my pipes are catalytic pipes so maybe because there’s effectively no cross over tube or catalytic converter per se that’s one issue....two would be I’ve got a compression issue STILL on the right side and while it’s running, she’s not running at optimum performance.

I haven’t checked compression yet but it’s on my agenda to do this weekend. The bike seems to ride just fine and so forth, just doesn’t seem like somethings quite right with the right side...

Thoughts?




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[joedrum]

Hmmmm timing belts are the only thing that is left and right separated....coils are front and back so are ignition pick ups ......carbs could be it by chance I suppose ...the right side belt is the hardest to tensioned right ...the fact it runs better once warm could be a sign it’s just not timed as good as the other side ....loose bike can make timing wander bad

 

[pidjones]

And compression is not something that you can guess at. You have to measure it, which takes about ten minutes total. Carb balance is another thing that can varry right/left.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

And compression is not something that you can guess at. You have to measure it, which takes about ten minutes total. Carb balance is another thing that can varry right/left.

I’m leaning towards it being compression again. I had already sync’d the carbs so they’re on point as far as I can tell. Rechecked them again this morning when I had the bike apart. Compression is next.


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[saganaga]

Did you check the carb linkages? Maybe a cotter pin came loose. I doubt it, but easy enough to check.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

Did you check the carb linkages? Maybe a cotter pin came loose. I doubt it, but easy enough to check.

Oh yeah - I pulled them off, replaced the internals with the stock jets since I got them back all nice and purdy rather than the ones that come in the rebuild kits. The carbs are kosher hence why I’m leaning towards compression being the issue again


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[K7TKA]

One of the best investments you can make is the hand held temperature tool. They are cheap at Harbor Freight. You can test each cylinder header pipe and tell exactly which one is having issues. It's a bit more accurate then the finger test.

 

[DaveKamp]

Tim is right- get the cheap electronic laser-pointer thermometer.

There's many things that will cause a cylinder to NOT fire, but the primary causes are lean mixture, really rich mixture, insufficient ignition voltage/current, inadequate compression, carbon fouling of the plug insulator...

If you have one cold cylinder, it's not firing. If you add a little throttle, it's probably the idle jets, or float bowl level. If it stays cold 'till you're WAY up, then it's the pilot jet and/or emulsion tube. If it drops the cylinder at high speed, then it'll be a main jet, float level, or exhaust obstruction for that cylinder, or a floating valve (weak spring, etc).


Is this your four-cyl, or a six? Catalyst? I don't know when they started putting catalysts on Wings, but you can't mix-match them with pre-emmissions setups. I don't know anything of the crossover-tube's relationship to model years, etc., but any exhaust obstruction or asymmetrical restriction is not a 'good' thing.

FWIW... my '84 chronically drops #1 at idle without choke. once fully warmed, it will STILL drop it at times, but a little throttle brings it right back. The reason, is that it's running slightly lean, and it will not adjust out... but adding a little fuel WILL bring it back, so most likely the low-speed passage is plugged up a bit.

What's interesting, is that when I'm rolling along gently, at very little throttle, I hear what sounds like lifter or rocker clatter, but it's not on right or left side, it's coming from directly below the false tank. At closed throttle, it's silent... at just a little, it taps with regular rhythm. Open it a little more, and it's silent, and pulling nicely... and while it tends to transition in the same WAY as the dropping #1, it doesn't do it with exact coincedence, so I think what I'm hearing might be the anti-backfire check valve stuff... I don't know...

But yours definitely calls for a thermometer and a spray bottle of flammable fluid... a compression tester, and a spark plug wrench.

de KW0D

 

[dan filipi]

A spray bottle filled with water is cheap and surprisingly accurate. After running a minute or so, give each header pipe a sprits from a foot away. It will be pretty obvious which cylinder is running cooler.

 

[saganaga]

dan filipi » Today, 8:03 am[/url]":3v7l9jua]
A spray bottle filled with water is cheap and surprisingly accurate. After running a minute or so, give each header pipe a sprits from a foot away. It will be pretty obvious which cylinder is running cooler.

That's a neat trick!

 

[TheRepoGuy]

It’s the entire right side so I may pull the carbs and see if it’s the low speed passage as Was previously suggested. Maybe I’ll get lucky and it is just plugged up. Will find out later this weekend when and if the rain stops out here [emoji849]


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[TheRepoGuy]

If you have one cold cylinder, it's not firing. If you add a little throttle, it's probably the idle jets, or float bowl level. If it stays cold 'till you're WAY up, then it's the pilot jet and/or emulsion tube. If it drops the cylinder at high speed, then it'll be a main jet, float level, or exhaust obstruction for that cylinder, or a floating valve (weak spring, etc).
Its not one, it’s the entire right side - it gets hot when the RPM’s are up above 3K. I bought the standard online rebuild kit which my understanding comes with different sized jets than stock. I should have my stock ones back in a few days and hopefully they’ll be ready to drop in and the bike should function like it needs to


Is this your four-cyl, or a six? Catalyst? I don't know when they started putting catalysts on Wings, but you can't mix-match them with pre-emmissions setups. I don't know anything of the crossover-tube's relationship to model years, etc., but any exhaust obstruction or asymmetrical restriction is not a 'good' thing.

The plugs aren’t fouled out either - checked that to make sure before I got into tearing the carbs down again and pulling them apart. I’m leaning towards it being a problem with the jets and such as you mentioned above (be surprised if my reply sticks in with the quoted text) so we shall see, planning on taking the carbs off again once the rain lets up down here


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