Littlebeavers Conversion

[danf]

Yes by george I think your right, it does say warning lamp I'm glad I grounded it just to be safe..Dan my tapping into the RR plug with a fused line would be ok won't it, for my exciter line I used a 10amp fuse is that ok or do I need a 15? Hey... I have no warning lamp on my 81 so I don't even need that L wire do I Dan..?

 

[dan filipi]

If I understand the way an idiot light works is that connection supplies the ground side of the lamp for the lamp to light so it should not be grounded. With no light used no connection should be made there.

I think your 10 amp fuse and where your connecting in at the regulator will be fine beav.

 

[danf]

Man it's so nice to have a guy's that know all this electrical stuff here, I am but a armchair sparky winging it...so there ya go Wilcoy.. My idiot light is alway's going on,,,In my brain...aaaah and don't you guy's start saying I was thinking the same thing.. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :Egyptian:

 

[danf]

Dan I have a question about the fused line on the 8 gauge wire, is it needed the fuse I mean.. and I have a 55 amp alt. so I shouhd use a 60 amp fuse right or 50? I ordered a 60 amp fuse holder for that line

 

[dan filipi]

Dan I have a question about the fused line on the 8 gauge wire, is it needed the fuse I mean.. and I have a 55 amp alt. so I shouhd use a 60 amp fuse right or 50? I ordered a 60 amp fuse holder for that line

Well I always like to play it safe.

Here's the deal and how I look at it.

When I wire up anything in a home or commercial building I have to follow the electrical code for sizing the breaker protecting the wire from overcurrent. I size auto/bike wiring the same way.

Check out the chart below.
For a given type of insulation and temperature the rating varies. Stay away from aluminum wire all together.
The insulation type for copper is expressed in THHN, THWN, etc.
#8 is sized at roughly 50 amps for a "normal" installation. Other factors come into play but we don't care about that here.
Auto type wire insulation is thicker also so the "safety margin" is higher.

So to answer your question I'd use a 50 amp fuse.

 

[joedrum]

armchair sparky ....man one liners are realy coming in bigtime ...its realy improves my mode....its amazing what prayer brings to the table :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

And beav, ALWAYS install a fuse or circuit breaker , or fusible link on the #8 wire.

It should be installed as close to the battery as possible.
This will break power if the line shorts to ground.

I even considered putting a fuse AT the alternator but that would be way overkill.

Use good quality crimp connectors where you need to land like at the battery post.
The good auto parts places like Napa and car stereo shops have the good one's.
No Auto Zone connectors here. They're a waste of time and money anything over 15 amps.
Crimp tightly then solder the crimp. This will ensure a tight connection that won't corrode then overheat.
If you only crimp plan on having to redo it later.

 

[danf]

Awesome Dan, everyone that reads this is going to get a great education, see not everyone knows this stuff, those little things like the auto zone connector I didn't know about, I shall go to NAPA and get new connectors and a good crimper, yes I have the cheesie one's the el cheapo deluxe ones from walmart..aaah .. Now you guy's can laugh at me if you want, but I always solder then use JB Weld over the solder and all around, I did that at my stator wire connection and it stayed good for a long time..after checking it lately it was looking good still.. Keeps moisture out..My therory is, the connection will never corrode...heeehaaa...

 

[danf]

Something you guy's need to do when reading my post please :beg: , understand that you must read it with a Arnold Schwarenegger accent. :smilie_happy: ..aaaah cause that's how I roll.. :hihihi: :Egyptian: I ordered my water pump spacer off ebay so I gotta wait for that now to come in a few days.. :doh: I'm hopeing to ride out of my garage this Saturday...

 

[danf]

beav- You plugged exciter wire into the regulator plug. That would be the IG terminal on regulator.(or I could use the headlight wire)
Did you plug the s terminal anywhere? if so where?
Did you plug the L terminal anywhere? If so where?

Thanks for any input

I plugged into the spade for the black wire in the RR plug, I used a plastic covered connector with a fused line to the IG., then I taped up the RR plug real good for my excitable wire.. :hihihi:

 

[danf]

Hey Dan while on the subject of the RR plug there are other hot spade plugs there think I could tap into those like I did the ign. wire, you know , with fused lines, like maybe a red wire spade..I know I can hook stuff at the battery or at the acc. box but this wont over load that area..I bet nobody has ever thought of this before... :hihihi: .

 

[dan filipi]

Hey Dan while on the subject of the RR plug there are other hot spade plugs there think I could tap into those like I did the ign. wire, you know , with fused lines, like maybe a red wire spade..I know I can hook stuff at the battery or at the acc. box but this wont over load that area..I bet nobody has ever thought of this before... :hihihi: .

Tap into the RR wires for what kind of load beav?

 

[wilcoy02]

So a female spade on the ig wire of the alt and plug it on the black wire of the disconnected regulator plug. Is this correct? This is what I did try. I did nothing with the other 2 wires

voltaqge on battery off 12.3 volts idiling 12.3volts rev to above 3000 still 12.3volts -it floated from 12.3 to 12.8v

I hyave not seen 14 volts yet.
any suggestions?

 

[dan filipi]

Wilcoy, the "S" connector is the voltage sensor.
That senses what the battery voltage is at so without it connected to the battery + it doesn't know to produce anything.
Connect a wire from S to the post the #8 is on or run it all the way to the battery if you like.

 

[danf]

Yes, Mine is older than yours, I wasn't thinking about that, I don't need it, you might need it, Dan is right...My apologes...So run that S wire and tell us all about man...Good for you..what your reading is the juice that's in the battery.... :hihihi: silly rabbit...this post will have everyone straight on this stuff, and that's a good thing..

 

[dan filipi]

Maybe these 2 diagrams will help......

 

[danf]

That is good drawing you found there Dan..I'm going out to Lowes to get some alumium dowels for the lower spacers to mount the lower part of the radiator...upper part is done...

 

[wilcoy02]

So I need to run a 2 inch wire from B to S from the above diagram?
or do I need to run a wire from S to the positive battery post?

 

[dan filipi]

So I need to run a 2 inch wire from B to S from the above diagram?
or do I need to run a wire from S to the positive battery post?

The alternator does sort of a balancing act on the sense wire and the B battery wire.
The sensing circuit "sees" the voltage is below it's rating (usually 14.8 Volts) then tells the regulator to increase the voltage then it floats it there by varying the alternators output. A balancing act.

Alternators with this type regulator are interesting.
They maintain voltage at a preset amount and increase current output up to their full capacity to maintain that voltage.
Much like if you take a bucket with a valve in the side, fill it to a level with water then open the valve to different amounts letting the water drain and try to keep the water at a constant level with a garden hose.
You'd have to vary the water going in from the hose. That's what the regulator does.

 

[danf]

hey beave would you like to make a kit and start selling them to the members????? :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

Kit....what Kit..Countryboy is working on the kit......Here's what a guy needs to do what I did, a good set of drill bits up to 5/8" or so is good..A good large vise, a dremel and heavy duty cut off blades, a good drill, and a metric tap set...and some 3 in 1 oil..and a flat file for metal...And a adjustable wrench to bend the steel.. and a hammer... safety glasses..