manifold heating ...coolant

[ob1quixote]

I installed motorcycle grip heaters on my manifold runners for initial heat. Wrapped 1/4 rubber duct wrap with an aluminum shileed around the runners and included the coolant crossover tube. Installed a 12vdc electronic thermostat to switch the grip heaters off at a given level.

I switch them off at 95 degrees to minimize the electrical load, and the coolant crossover will bring temp well over 150 degrees inside the insulated shroud.

No fancy shrouds, just some foil faced foam rubber duct wrap, and some plain aluminum foil tape over the top. The foam rubber is self adhesive to a degree, but need the foil tap over wrap to be secure.

 

[Dusterdude]

Damn good idea

Sent from my LG-US601 using Tapatalk

 

[Ansimp]

ob1quixote » Wed Jun 12, 2019 12:13 pm[/url]":39x6cuk3]
I installed motorcycle grip heaters on my manifold runners for initial heat. Wrapped 1/4 rubber duct wrap with an aluminum shileed around the runners and included the coolant crossover tube. Installed a 12vdc electronic thermostat to switch the grip heaters off at a given level.

I switch them off at 95 degrees to minimize the electrical load, and the coolant crossover will bring temp well over 150 degrees inside the insulated shroud.

No fancy shrouds, just some foil faced foam rubber duct wrap, and some plain aluminum foil tape over the top. The foam rubber is self adhesive to a degree, but need the foil tap over wrap to be secure.

:good: :clapping: :salute:

 

[joedrum]

Nice set up ...wonder how much this taxes the electrical system ...I found that heat is mostly need when bad gas charge s what your dealing with ...I use no heat what so ever ....and in fact go the other way with cool charge set up by insulating the my manifold set up from the head heat ...

 

[ob1quixote]

Dont think it taxes it too much. I believe I read the grips ran 3 amps, so 6 amps for the two pair. With the thermostat installed, they turn off at 95 degrees in the insulated void. Right now in the warm South, it takes just a few minutes.

You could be very right with the mixture being off. I have been dealing with that as well, and now have a bike that idles a touch above 1Krpm. Have a 40 and 45 idle jet coming, hoping to eliminate the unpowered choke plate adjustment I made that lets the choke flap partially engage at idle. After first installing, I am pretty sure I could chill a couple canned drinks on the manifold runners!

I can always pull the power from the thermostat and test.

What I am shooting for is a consistent operating situation to tune to.
I once heard " Attaining perfection is the conversion of variables to constants", it stuck with me!

And I used to have a sign in my shop

______
PLAN I
AHEA I
_D___I

{excuse my shoddy keyboard talents please!}

 

[joedrum]

What’s new here ...itching for update

 

[ob1quixote]

Last mileage check with 55 idle jet. 29.3 mpg.
Installed 45 jet, got a small stumble in the 2-3K rpm range, made idle slightly rougher when cold, not bothering to check mpg since I dont like the running.

50 idle jet is on the way, then I will do a mileage and plug check.
I suspect it will still be rich at higher rpm, may break out ye olde box 'o' jets.

Hoping to get it right or close to it, got some plans to ride up to and back after a bit of the BRP next weekend...

 

[ob1quixote]

In other news, I developed diode problems {on order}, and a sticky situation with the starter motor.

Bike came with a lawnmower solenoid, worked fine, but didnt hide behind the cover well.
Ordered and eBay cheapie, then read the warnings of them sticking.
Had no issues, but bought an OE from a local cycle salvage yard.

Now the OE solenoid is sticking sometimes. Cleaned starter switch, waiting for diodes to run again, more expensive non OE solenoid on the way.

 

[81 Gwing]

 

[joedrum]

Nice set up

 

[ChickenWing]

I too am looking for a remedy to eliminate the chilling of the intakes, I took some windshield heat barrier material and doubled sided it with a cardboard center core to maintain the heat once the engine started warming up, what I found out is lower rpms during warm up slows down the chilling effect, higher rpms increase the cooler air flow with the gas vapor which chills the tubes before the writing each cylinder. The shields remain in place even after warm up and after riding they maintain the warm temperature in this region and ready to run normal when ready to go again, its not pretty but it works just deal with the rough running until,the engine begins to produce heat., can't do anything for the coolness of the carb bowl but it is not as bad as the intake tubes. I know this forum is pretty old but people are still having trouble with this one carb system and I hope this helps someone.