manifold heating ...coolant

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joedrum

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after looking at canucksxxx plenum heat project ...I got to really thinking about things and me and dan chatsd for awhile discussing things...so eventually I got and idea along with dan sort of ...I thinking dan thinks it way to much work might be but I an going with the idea for awhile ...put it out here and see what others think ..

1 to me if im going to have coolant heat I want the coolant just off the head ... as it seems this would be the hottest coolant to tap ...

2 the only way to do this is you have to completely reroute the cross over system ...sounds huge but I don't think its to bad ....

3 my plan is to from each head just like the cross over dose ...go from there to center of the plenum and up to the bottom of type four base ....possibly using the stock center section modified some to except the plumbing ... it has perfectly dril holes and with the right spacer and longer bolts could also stabilize everything ...seems you would just have a different hose to go radiator to make it work ....

4 this way for you guys with thermostat ....when it closes the coolant will back right up at manifold waiting for flow from thermostat ...and heating the manifold up just like motor ... this completely eliminates extra line of coolant flow and retuns and all....keeping this system just stock as was just routed through type 4 ... and there is totally no flow abnormalities at all .....

5 I hope I explained that well ....this definitely my approach and the only one that will get the hottest coolant and it brings a three way intersection of heat right where I want it providing maxium flow and no bled off flow negative for motor in any way .....

let the slaming begin ...just kidding comments please :mrgreen:
 

canuckxxxx

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Joe,

That sounds interesting but I am not completely clear on it. Are you saying to run heater hose from each head outlet, running to the plenum heater where all flow goes through the plenum? And then to the T stat which would be in a different location?

I think you would want to keep the closed circuit bypass therefore keeping the T stat in stock location.

That is pretty radical but would give the most heat alright.

I am anxious to hear more details. Maybe a sketch.

Brian
 
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joedrum

joedrum

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yes brian ... it dosnt look to me raising the stock thermo housing up to the bottom of type 4 plenum is all that much ... I havnt look things over yet as this is all head thing with big dose of cabin fever LOL....but it seems that with the right spacers and longer bolts everything would be stabilized and the type 4 sit right on top of stock center section ... of course there be mods there to make it work for hook up.... seems the cross over tubes could be used most of the way to center just like stock then moded to fit the higher center section up against the base of type 4 attached or maybe just fitted good and close ... that center section seems like it would fit right in the groove of the type 4 .....

I can draw fine here .... when I draw on the screen it don't go to the forum and I have to clean it off :headscratch: :mrgreen:
 

ekvh

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This was for a different reason, but leaves options. Since there are no carbs in the way, it would be easy to tee into the tubes. They are very thin tubes.
image.jpg
 
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joedrum

joedrum

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burrrr!!! that was cold ... I just looked at hooch this is hugely encouraging...seems the only obstical is the fan motor it could be shifted rather easy ...it also looks as though it will line up fine with type 4 ... I am really excited now ... as this really will give maxium flow of the hottest coolant ... the only down side would be if it was to much ... I do see that being a problem ... seem its could never get hotter than the coolant ...me personally I don't use a thermostat and consistency is the game here ... its always a battle to heat the plenum base plate against carb icing the base plate from opposite side ...so I think this will be the best for me to get the kind of heat with the widest range to battle the icing issue ...its for sure all go for me now ... I just see no down side at all ... :builder:
 

mcgovern61

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107659#p107659:1z8urywz said:
ekvh » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:21 am[/url]":1z8urywz]
This was for a different reason, but leaves options. Since there are no carbs in the way, it would be easy to tee into the tubes. They are very thin tubes.
file.php
You have got to start a new thread explaining all of the goodies in that pic! (Carb changes, centered external alternator....) :yes:
 
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joedrum

joedrum

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well after looking at parts ... it is starting to look like I will connect the crossover with a T up to type 4 and basically chamber the base plate... as the spot where the thermostat gets feed ... basicly cutting it off jus behind thermostat housing and feeding into here the manifold feed as well as motor
image.php

image.php

cutting the cross over plumbing off.. thatwill all be gone
 

canuckxxxx

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Joe,

I noticed that the OEM centre section of the coolant lines on top of the engine is tapered from smaller at the back end to bigger near the T stat. Looks to me that if you took the T stat off you would have clear access to the inside of the centre chamber. You could made an aluminum disc that would go partway down the inside of the chamber and fit tightly, blocking the flow from the heads to the T stat. (Or the disc could have a hole to let some of the coolant through). Then put a fairly large fitting at the back end of the chamber and route it through the plenum heater.

So then you could keep all the OEM plumbing and still control how much coolant goes through the plenum and how much by passes it. And you don't have to make much new stuff.

Brian
 
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joedrum

joedrum

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now that's what I like ... about the way we do here .. that is a fabulous idea I havmt thought of yet ...thanks brian ... I am looking at that now

wow that was the five star response brian this changes everything
 

canuckxxxx

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107744#p107744:1b95s4bp said:
joedrum » Sun Jan 19, 2014 9:25 am[/url]":1b95s4bp]
now that's what I like ... about the way we do here .. that is a fabulous idea I havmt thought of yet ...thanks brian ... I am looking at that now

wow that was the five star response brian this changes everything

Thanks Joe. I don't think I would be brave enough to block of the non-plenum flow altogether so would probably put a hole in the disc to let some flow through. The other problem would be to make sure the disc didn't come loose, move up to the T stat and cause some havoc there. Would tapping it into place hold it tight enough? Would my old friend JB weld hold it in place and withstand a constant bath of hot coolant? Not sure. Maybe a thick disc with a set screw in from the side to hold it. :fishin:

Brian
 
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joedrum

joedrum

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well brian ..the crossover is basically 1" pipe ... now I am leaning towards leaving center section stock with cross over all intact ... on the small end of center section tap in there with feed ....of the biggest size I can .... put disc in ...like you were saying ... hmmm there are ways to keep the disc in place ..or plug of some kind ... and on the other side of that come down for the return that connection will be creative and not figure out ye either .... but as far as putting hole in disc I doubt I will ... I just flow having only one place to go ...

how I am golng to do the chamber I am not sure yet ... I like the way yours look .. it don't have to hold a lot ... I want flow to be constantly moving

im getting things sorted who knows how many changes I might make ... :mrgreen:
 

HOTT

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107672#p107672:20n0ax5f said:
joedrum » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:54 am[/url] ...me personally I don't use a thermostat and consistency is the game here ... :
Joe,
trying to visualize (read it twice, will wait for photos). When it comes to getting quick consistent heat the thermostat is your friend.
That tiny hole in the thermo & housing. will allow some coolant movement from the head when closed. The result is rapid rising
heat while the engine is still cold to the touch. Without the thermostat it takes much longer to get that good metal penetrating heat
from the coolant. Also no need to disc to restrict flow.

I use a very small heat tube and it will burn your fingers in very little time.
 

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