My 1978 GL1000 smells like gas. Why?

[Gonz]

Wait a second. Now that I recall, I already replaced the fuel pump. Just have timing belts to go and a few other things. Im having trouble putting her in neutral when on. New thread.

 

[bronko37]

At times these bikes can be a little finicky going from 1st to neutral when they are running. Not sure exactly why, seems like a small binding issue, but I experienced the same issue on my '75. Try finding N from 2nd gear instead of from 1st, or let the clutch out slightly to get things moving, that will free up the bind.

Just the nature of the beast I guess...

 

[dan filipi]

bronko37 » 30 minutes ago[/url]":3kfa64x8]
At times these bikes can be a little finicky going from 1st to neutral when they are running. Not sure exactly why, seems like a small binding issue, but I experienced the same issue on my '75. Try finding N from 2nd gear instead of from 1st, or let the clutch out slightly to get things moving, that will free up the bind.

Just the nature of the beast I guess...

Agreed.
Oil weight makes a difference too.
I find mine doesn't like oil any thicker than 10/40, same with the starter clutch.

 

[zman]

Gonz » Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:34 pm[/url]":9hv8g420]
Wait a second. Now that I recall, I already replaced the fuel pump. Just have timing belts to go and a few other things. Im having trouble putting her in neutral when on. New thread.

Do yourself a favor on this, First part isn't necessary but recommended
1; disconnect the clutch cable on both ends, push and pull on it feel the action should be easy and smooth, if not look for dried old lubricants people use to lube their cables, this makes the pull stiff and puts stress on the cable, lube it with some 3 in 1 oil or WD, you don't need to spray it in, with it disconnected the upper cable is elevated and careful dripping gravity will send it down the cable. While this is going on take off your clutch lever and use some white grease and lube the bolt and lever on the pivot points.
Or replace the cable, they are only 12-13 bucks but even a new one will benefit from 3 in 1 lube and it wont cake up when dried.
2; adjust the cable to where the lever starts to disengage the clutch when it is parallel with the handle bars. When you have the clutch in and its running while in gear you want to be able to move the clutch handle something like an 1-1/2 inch without the bike moving, might even be 2 inches I`ll have to measure.
I would bet this will solve your issue, Mine I thought was fine and neutral wasn't a big hassle to find but when I did these things it was 2X easier to find and it shifts like butter now.
Reason for this is that the cable is long and under stress will stretch and compress the sheathing making what seems to be a properly adjusted cable not properly work with the engines clutch, big difference when its working together.

 

[Gonz]

Good morning. Thx Jeff. Will do that now.