My build (another one)

[ianstaley]

As an update a little over £300 for the pair. discs, drilling and postage, I am happy, as they will probably out live me, the amount of miles that I can see me doing is about 2-3000 a year, fine weather rider. As they are Stainless they cost a bit more to drill and as I say when my butt is cold repairs are my daughter s problem not mine. arty:

 

[AApple]

Denver » Sat Feb 20, 2016 6:12 pm[/url]":2t2rjczh]
Years ago always believed holes, & or groves were to clean, clear the brake dust. :roll: Not so evidently :nea: as the brake experts say, to release the gasses created, :shock: & nothing to do with the brake dust! :doh:

Yup...drilled/slotted rotors DO help expend the gasses produced while braking. They also help with cooling, and the holes/slots will also clean the pads of most debris such as dirt/water, which helps with noise issues. Holes in rotors can also cause cracking, especially around the holes themselves, so it's a real good idea to keep a watchful eye on the rotors. This is one reason a lot of folks will use the dimples on rotors, instead of drilling. Heavy braking/heat buildup will eventually start cracks forming on the edges of the holes, even when they are beveled. These being stainless steel, the cracking might not be as big of an issue as it is with cast rotors, but it's still a good idea to check them carefully on a regular basis. :good:

 

[joedrum]

witch makes a good case for solid rotors ....as pads are replaceable and most of the rotor is in free air to begin with and they keep there self clean that way ....i dont think holy rotors do much racing the best ive seen are some bike rotors of older bikes that are grooved accross entire surface of pad ..having cool and hot spots like holes creates makes not much sense to me ... stock 1200 oldwing rotors seem to be best of both worlds to me ....

 

[Denver]

The slots are possibly the best solution then. :whistling:

 

[Fstsix]

Those look nice ! Drilled rotors are still big in Racing .. these are the same off the 79 CBX rotors , Drilled by Kosman racing bike came with Comstar 5 spoke stock, But the Term Un-sprung weight is used a lot in all out racing Much lighter Hubs , Spokes, Sprocket and Disk, these Kosmans are kinda expensive but proven

 

[joedrum]

wow thats drilled ....im sure they are great products .....

 

[mcgovern61]

I only know, this: I was capable of warping two different sets of 1100 solid front rotors because of hanging calipers not fully releasing.

 

[Fstsix]

mcgovern61 » Today, 5:24 pm[/url]":2i9140uq]
I only know, this: I was capable of warping two different sets of 1100 solid front rotors because of hanging calipers not fully releasing.

Yep just rebuilt the 2 calipers up front one looks like it got hot, CBX in the early years has the same caliper and disk as the Wing and CB 750 F models

 

[wedoo2]

Your wheels look good. There is just something about drilled rotors that looks fast. I think you mentioned the color scheme before as being an off-white frame with reddish tins. Does my memory serve me? Did you consider painting the rims the frame color?

 

[ianstaley]

wedoo2 » Fri Mar 04, 2016 12:04 am[/url]":zu4f6cz1]
Your wheels look good. There is just something about drilled rotors that looks fast. I think you mentioned the color scheme before as being an off-white frame with reddish tins. Does my memory serve me? Did you consider painting the rims the frame color?

Colour, yes I did think about it, but being as the brake callipers are the same colour as the frame Old English White, I do have the paint number here somewhere, if you want I will get that number and post it on here. so I just got the can out and the paints I have is mixed.

So when I was discussing the wheels with one of my Powder Coaters, I say my but it is just two companies I like to work with. Anyway he thought that a Champaign colour for the wheels would look good in a slightly different colour, also I wanted the rims polishing on the outside of the rim. As for the "body work" I want a Cherry Black or Black Cherry which ever way you want to call it. I am very much an armature painter, I also have quite a bit of equipment to do this myself. I don't have a Spray Booth so I have to choose my days to paint very carefully, so mine is very much a experimental way of doing this. I have laid down several coats of paint and I am NOT happy, so it all has to come off and start again. What make it worse is I want some ghost images of the word Honda done like a Norton Trade Mark and just under that false tank badges. I might even lose the badges altogether. The panels came out quite well so I know I am on the right track.

The next problem is the Engine, I have yet to blast it clean with Soda, that is a waste of time when it is wet, but when I get the chance that is the next priority, once done the engine will be checked out, I don't think there is anything wrong with it, it was running when I out it away, but the rings and so on will in all probability be seized or stuck in their groves. The carb rack is gross so I have a pair of Webber type 40IDE carbs which will be fitted. The rack I will keep and clean just in case I need them sometime.
So that is about it,. Roll on the real spring and the summer.

 

[Terry]

Curious question,
I have purchased aftermarket cross drilled rotors on occasion and the holes are always in a staggered position and I noticed yours are in a straight line. I assume the staggered pattern minimizes the possibility for weak spots or stress cracks. Do you think yours will hold up ok with the inline pattern?

 

[ianstaley]

Terry » Fri Mar 04, 2016 6:49 pm[/url]":1ntx3i1o]
Curious question,
I have purchased aftermarket cross drilled rotors on occasion and the holes are always in a staggered position and I noticed yours are in a straight line. I assume the staggered pattern minimizes the possibility for weak spots or stress cracks. Do you think yours will hold up ok with the inline pattern?

Hi mine are not drilled in a straight line but radiate from the inside out (see post #408) they go from a lager hole in towards the centre of the disc outwards. so I see no problems with strength or weakening of the disc. I wish they were vented but I think that is a bit over the top for a street bike. If I want to do over 130 MPH I have my truck to do that, it is a VW V10 twin Turbo 5.0 diesel. that will crack over 150 Mph. And you would be mad to do it in the Touareg.

At 64 nearly 65 my speed demon days are well over. I want people to look at my bike and wish they had one like it. My next project (if I live that long) will be something else, a true Cafe Racer. in the true old school, maybe a 250 or even a straight 4, I was leaning towards a Kwakker K1300. or even a Honda V4. Get this one finished first then see what hapens. :yahoo: :builder:

 

[Ansimp]

Good plans Ian :good:

 

[wedoo2]

The motor sounds like a challenge but you have the patience to do it. I am still wondering if Wheeler Dealers is popular over there. I watch it all the time here and Edd is my hero.

 

[ianstaley]

Yeah it is on Discovery every day old series which are English cars , I think the next series were Euro cars and the last series was in the states.

 

[Dusterdude]

New season is back in england,i didnt care for the usa jaunt they did

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

 

[ianstaley]

They bought some nice cars and trucks in the states. Euro cars are far more complicated than is needed, the more electrics that go on a car to power gizmos the worse it is when it breaks down.

 

[ianstaley]

So I managed to go do some soda blasting today on the engine.I got 25 Kilograms of the stuff, yesterday (Saturday) I took my compressor and the blasting stuff up to the garage with the intention of doing it today. Got the engine on the jack outside, started the genny up and the thing hasn't got the cahonas to start the compressor, it is a 2000 watt comp engine, the genny is rated at 2400 KVA not enough to provide the umph to get the compressor going. Any way got it pluged into a guys house net work starts no problem. Get the engine out side rig it all up and WTF! doesn't do much except spread the crap around a little more. It can't do rust, not that is a lot of rust, but it doesn't even touch the Honda Lacquer, get shot of some old dirt but after 20 minutes it is a BIT cleaner.

So now I am back to the drawing board on this one. Now I have a few choices to get this done. I can't lift the engine to take it somewhere to get it done, we collectively have decided that using a silica based media is not good (I do take everything you guys tell me to heart). So as far as I see I have maybe two options right now. Option 1) see if I can find a mobile blaster to do the job, after all his compressor is going to be a lot bigger than mine and I have no need to buy more soda, option 2) involves a lot more work but in the long run may be the best bet, get a new (used) crank cases the only problem there is the cylinders? size condition etc, at least the can be cleaned without fear of getting sand or some other material inside the engine and it gives me the the cases in a ready to paint finish. So first paint, then rebuild my stuff over. Now the hard bit I have never done a gearbox before in my life. All the engines I have ever done has a split case horizontally and not a vertical split.

So I was thinking could I split the engine ie then the case would or could be split horizontally so one half off put the new finished half on, turn it over do the same or am I being Homer smart just to simplistic.

:help:

 

[slabghost]

Could use aircraft paint stripper first then try the soda or possibly crushed walnut shells. You'll need silica to get the rust.

 

[slabghost]

Or a rust converter product.