My build (another one)

[joedrum]

no need for timing wheel at all ....putting on the belts properly tension on both sides ...and the c5 sets a T1 mark and actually has a light that comes on when the disk is tighten down ...super easy set up ....

 

[ianstaley]

Thank's Joe, saves me some money towards the C5. :salute:

 

[aussiegold]

ianstaley » Sun Mar 20, 2016 3:42 am[/url]":3oblfbjj]
Now I am looking down the line a little here, but I might just bite the bullet and get a electronic ignition I think the C5 is according to general census is the one to get, but will I need to get a timing wheel? if so what about the one Randak sells. Any info will be readily absorbed.
:BigGrin:

as Joe says, the C5 does not need that type of timing wheel. which may be useful for other types of ( lesser ) ignitions. it is good to see a timing device that has been in use for Ducati's etc for quite a few years, being developed for the GL market.

 

[ianstaley]

So day before yesterday I was on the other sister site NGW as I was looking to see if anyone had made an engine stand for the GL, turns out that indeed Greg had done just what I was looking for. Mind you it was a few years back so I shot a quick PM to him in the hope he might have something. He sent me back some sweet pics of the stand he made but didn't do any drawings and he asked did I know what Weld at assembly meant. So he sent me these pics what a coincidence that he has the same carbs I have, and his engine is the same almost of my old English white.

So now I am in a dilemma, I have enough paint to do the engine in the same colour as the frame and all the other stuff that is the white, do you all think that it would be too much white?

Ian

 

[joedrum]

well thats greg owner of whit trash ...his bike is a show piece ...and just super nice build ..hard to argue his is to white ,,one of the best looking bikes out there ...he also lives in fla somewhere now ...id like to see him ..but im not a member at ngw and cant contact him

 

[ianstaley]

here you go Joe I think this is his e mail address on his meber info. [email protected]

 

[slabghost]

With as much attention to detail as you apply I think too much white is not an issue.

 

[Denver]

Can't argue that white has an unusual, appealing appearance. :good: Red frame would be a nice contrast. :headscratch:

 

[joedrum]

frame is already white denver....

 

[Denver]

Yes i know Joe, :whistling: just thinking out loud. :doh:

 

[ianstaley]

Denver » Tue Mar 22, 2016 2:23 pm[/url]":17tmzgr7]
Yes i know Joe, :whistling: just thinking out loud. :doh:

Everyone is allowed to think out load. :wave:

So if everyone can think out load how about thinking out load as to how I could drop the bike by about 2" ? the front is easy just shove the fork's up a bit, the real problem is the back, either lower the seat (I only need a single) so give a fair bit of leaway.
:BigGrin:

 

[slabghost]

Could lower the seat and use shorter shocks to lower the rear. Lower will reduce final lean angle available. Don't want to drag parts in turns.

 

[Denver]

You can order shorter dampers from Progressive, or cut your damper shaft down. But cutting an inch is about all you can get away with.

 

[ianstaley]

You can order shorter dampers from Progressive, or cut your damper shaft down. But cutting an inch is about all you can get away with.

Thanks Denver and V for the comments. I only need an inch or so to achieve the look and the feet squarely on the ground. (my weight helps a bit). I love the way Hott did it by cutting the frame and re welding it with a small increase in angle like he did on Ol Sparkey, Hott went from 26 degrees to 32 degrees which pushed the front out just a little bit but enough to drop the front end down and forwards. By taking out the frame at the back and under the seat area he could go down as far as he liked. I can't and wont do that. So a smaller seat maybe much like a bobber seat pan and dropping or shortening the rear shocks might solve the problem.

Hey time enough but need to keep it in mind. So tonight I will make a start on putting together the forks. Need cleaning first. I will post when done.

Ian :yes:

 

[ianstaley]

So continuing on, collected some of the old rubber off the old frame (glad I kept it now, no good for anything), as stated I went and scavenged everything I could of the old frame and from boxes with parts in. Today I started to rebuild the forks, cleaned all the crap out of them, surprising how dirty they get after being polished. As I was reading the repair manual on the forks, I noticed that they say you need to have new bolts that hold the stanchion in the fork outer. No new ones around so have ordered a load of stainless A2 or old 302 stainless machine screws and cap nuts. Got me some isolation paste ordered for the dissimilar metals crack.

So just doing not a lot right now. Oh over here we have a national holiday Monday so nothing open here. Other wise I was going to have the new tyres fitted to the wheels, ready to revive the forks, discs and callipers. I still have to paint the triple tree, when that is done, I will spray on a clear coat or two just to keep the stuff clean and easier to just spray off the crud from riding.
so that s the update for now, have a happy Easter to all, I hope you all get Easter (H)eggs from the (playboy)Easter Bunny. :yes:

 

[ianstaley]

Hi all having a bit of time before I can rebuild the front forks, I have been rubbing down the fake tank sides as I wasn't happy with the result towards the end of last year, I want a Norton type Honda logo like this one,

So the side panels will also be redone to keep the colour match. I am also thinking of doing the engine block in the same Old English cream / white. The cylinder heads in the same colour as the side panels and faux tank covers. The water supply pipes also in the cherry black. So that is pretty much fixed regarding the overall look colour wise As you know I have gone with the twin, twin choke Webber's (Chinese) which will leave quite a bit of room in the middle that is no longer occupied by the rack.

Now I like the idea of a different bigger alternator. I have seen a lot of threads on the subject but they are always towards the outside as it interferes with the Radiator Etc. But I think I might have a unique opportunity to place it central to the engine and level where the rack used to reside. I hope I am not boring you guys :lazy: I could then lose the heat plate that takes up the area directly behind the rad and the front of the rack. I think a small unit of about 55 Amps should be more than sufficient, and due to their size making it fit should be comparatively easy. I can also lose some weight by ditching the original generator.

Ideas on these thought would be gratefully received.

:thanks:

 

[dan filipi]

Nope, not boring me one bit :read:

Alternator in the center is doable, though the fan is in the way. Front fan solves that. I think the radiator still does have to move forward a bit at the bottom to make room for the pulley.

 

[slabghost]

Losing the stock alternator is problematic. The stator itself can be ditched but the rotor may have to remain. Losing that heat plate will probably not be an issue at all.

 

[ianstaley]

Standard radiator has the fan on the outside of the rad. So I am looking at removing the plate the is between the radiator and the carbs. That would give me more room to set the alternator more to the back, problem is the positioning of the pulley wheel will have to stick through the timing belt cases. As the twin Webbers will be on the outside of the engine, that gives me or should give me a big hole to fill. I can leave the stator windings, that isn't such an issue. So thanks for the info guys. catch you all later. :good: :yes:

 

[wedoo2]

I am not bored at all Ian. Your build may appear to some to be glacial but I am enjoying it. What is isolation paste?