Steve81GL1100
Active member
Yeah, near as I can tell it's accurate or at least close. I do know it hasn't been on the road in 10 years, and everything I'm seeing on it indicates it spent a lot more time parked than driving.
Steve
Steve
New guy, lots of questions coming
- Thread starter Steve81GL1100
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riff raff
Well-known member
I've had good luck and decent mileage on dunlop 404's
Steve81GL1100
Active member
Pic finally..... Circa June -- looks exactly the same now:
I still haven't gotten going on this. Have a certain little British car I need to de-body and disassemble some more to clear garage floor space so the GL can go inside for the winter. Should be able to be at it by Thanksgiving. Until then, I at least have formulated a plan. For tires, I'm going with new Spitfires -- the local MC shop recommended them and can do them while I have the tank out for cleaning and lining (for some reason, he prefers wheels only -- not the whole bike :hihihi: ). Additionally, it needs new head gaskets (OEM Honda), Randakk's carb rebuild kit, new timing belts, all new rubber (hoses, lines, etc), new soft brake lines (SS maybe?), rebuild calipers and new pads, battery, the shocks leak (fork seems to hold air, though), ... What else am I missing?
Ought to keep me out of trouble all winter........ :Egyptian:
Steve
I still haven't gotten going on this. Have a certain little British car I need to de-body and disassemble some more to clear garage floor space so the GL can go inside for the winter. Should be able to be at it by Thanksgiving. Until then, I at least have formulated a plan. For tires, I'm going with new Spitfires -- the local MC shop recommended them and can do them while I have the tank out for cleaning and lining (for some reason, he prefers wheels only -- not the whole bike :hihihi: ). Additionally, it needs new head gaskets (OEM Honda), Randakk's carb rebuild kit, new timing belts, all new rubber (hoses, lines, etc), new soft brake lines (SS maybe?), rebuild calipers and new pads, battery, the shocks leak (fork seems to hold air, though), ... What else am I missing?
Ought to keep me out of trouble all winter........ :Egyptian:
Steve
slabghost
Well-known member
Check the vacuum advance doesn't leak. Mine on my 80 was flow through.
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I went with SS lines.
They gave me a more solid feel, especially on the front but if you want to keep the stock look I think OEM rubber are still available.
They gave me a more solid feel, especially on the front but if you want to keep the stock look I think OEM rubber are still available.
I'm going to just jump right in and recommend the C5 ignition kit. My '82 would periodically drop down to 3, 2, or 1 cylinder because the Pulse Generator was wonky and would not only fail to trigger the ignition coils at the proper time (or at all, sometimes) it gradually cooked the coils (repeatedly).
If you know it's only firing on one cylinder, I'd put plugs in all four plug wires, make sure they're laying across metal to ground the plugs, and hit the starter motor to make sure all 4 are even sparking (do this at night, it's hard to see the spark during daylight, but read the below paragraph about timing belt alignment FIRST). Since you said this guy got in over his head after something as simple as pulling the valves, you might not want to take his word as gospel about the compression.
You can also get a feel for the compression just by putting the bike up on the center stand, putting it in 5th gear, and turning the back tire. You'll feel more resistance as each cylinder goes into the compression stroke (assuming the heads are back on and the spark plugs are tight). If you're only getting compression on one cylinder, you'll feel one hard pull and three easy ones.
As for the timing belt, that's unlikely. If one of the belts (there are two) slipped, you'd still have correct timing on two of them and bitten-off valve heads rattling around against the piston in the other one. You can verify this just by pulling the timing belt covers and checking that the marks on both timing gears are pointed the same direction. If the timing belts have been taken off, the cams themselves (not just the valve rockers) have been taken off, or the head has been taken off make VERY sure you get them aligned exactly with the mark on the flywheel when you put them back together. The GL1100 is an interference engine, meaning that the valves and pistons are close enough that they can hit each other if they're out of time. More than one tooth out of place on the timing belt and you'll bite a valve off. I strongly suggest slowly turning the engine over manually (by the crank bolt or back tire, with the spark plugs removed) to make sure nothing makes contact before trying to spin the engine by the starter motor. If you hear a "tik" and feel sudden resistance, you'll be glad you didn't hit the starter button.
If you know it's only firing on one cylinder, I'd put plugs in all four plug wires, make sure they're laying across metal to ground the plugs, and hit the starter motor to make sure all 4 are even sparking (do this at night, it's hard to see the spark during daylight, but read the below paragraph about timing belt alignment FIRST). Since you said this guy got in over his head after something as simple as pulling the valves, you might not want to take his word as gospel about the compression.
You can also get a feel for the compression just by putting the bike up on the center stand, putting it in 5th gear, and turning the back tire. You'll feel more resistance as each cylinder goes into the compression stroke (assuming the heads are back on and the spark plugs are tight). If you're only getting compression on one cylinder, you'll feel one hard pull and three easy ones.
As for the timing belt, that's unlikely. If one of the belts (there are two) slipped, you'd still have correct timing on two of them and bitten-off valve heads rattling around against the piston in the other one. You can verify this just by pulling the timing belt covers and checking that the marks on both timing gears are pointed the same direction. If the timing belts have been taken off, the cams themselves (not just the valve rockers) have been taken off, or the head has been taken off make VERY sure you get them aligned exactly with the mark on the flywheel when you put them back together. The GL1100 is an interference engine, meaning that the valves and pistons are close enough that they can hit each other if they're out of time. More than one tooth out of place on the timing belt and you'll bite a valve off. I strongly suggest slowly turning the engine over manually (by the crank bolt or back tire, with the spark plugs removed) to make sure nothing makes contact before trying to spin the engine by the starter motor. If you hear a "tik" and feel sudden resistance, you'll be glad you didn't hit the starter button.
