New (prospect) builder in the online 1100 MC

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:hi:BigDub
BigDub":3kg4zwzf said:
:fiddle:

Meet my 1100cc coffee table! My first honing experience was an epic failure but, I do now have some great experience plus the baddest living room in Sacramento.

The 81 is now a parts donor until I come across a motor. Anyone know if a 1000 engine will mate with 1100 carbs?
I have 2 engines in the side yard I know one is out of an 82 both condition unknown.... came to me thouugh barter....I live just up the freeway from you as i recall, in Citus Heights... If you would like to look them over gibe me a PM Bob
 
THANKS ARE IN ORDER TO BOB FOR PARTING WITH ONE OF HIS SIDE YARD ENGINES. THE '81 IS BACK ON.

Update to the 1980 rebuild project:

Got the starter relay complete tear-down rebuilt on the 1980 last night. Hooked up the rebuilt fuel tank, rebuilt carbs, poured in 4 fresh quarts of oil an "waaallah". Purrin like a kitty!

BOOYAH! Precise acceleration and stellar idle. Those carbs were so pitted with rust damage and I've never had to actually disassemble/remove/reinstall butterfly valves to rebuild a set but, inspite of it all...... even with the intense bead blasting and heavy muriatic acid baths into the idle circuits(i am so suprised this didn't affect idle or acceleration negatively), these are sounding primo! It's going to be a great weekend.

Screw it let's ride!
 
:clapping: Big congrats too ya. Have you posted a picture of the bike itself yet? I'll be putting the timing belts on my 80 as soon as UPS drops them off. Gates belts thru Amazon, $14.90 each with free shipping. Nice weekend for a ride in Central CA this weekend. 64 deg. predicted and sunny :grin:
 
Last night I gave the inside of my rear brake piston an acid bath using swimming pool muriatic acid available at any hardware store. The results were great. This has usually been the case with rusted stainless steel pairs.

WARNING....DO NOT BATHE MASTER CYLINDER INTERNALS. THEY ARE APT TO DISSOLVE COMPLETELY. BUT, IT'S FUN TOO WATCH.

Pics below are the part filled with hydrochloric acid and then followed by the same part after 1 hour soaking +triple fresh water rinse + compressed air dry+ spray rinsed with brake parts cleaner. This is was my prep for high heat aluminum rattle paint. :eek:k:
 

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Bob, I try to use a high-heat paint on almost everything. Other than that, just try to start with a light coat on one side of the part. The hard part in my opinion is to NOT spray too much in one coat. You almost wanna just dust cover it with each coat until it's complete.
 
Last weekend was a blast! I still haven't put her on the street but did a lot of the inspection rebuilding necessary to feel secure to drive back and forth to work 30 minute commute.

Work list completed over the weekend:

*1 Removed inspected polished and customized the exhaust due to damaged r muff. Short piped the right side with the left bipass(right angle/cross connector left open). * Sounds rowdy as hell! LOL = ]
*2 Polished and positioned the shocks including bead blasting nuts/washers.
*3 Attempted the Seafoam add to engine oil nuetral light fix(failed to stop errant neutral green light signalling even after running with half can seafoam for 30 plus minutes on the center stand and flushing, changing oil, replacing filter, adding seaform again, and 30 + more minutes of run time)
*4 Cleaned the airbox and added a HiFlo air filter. (still need to fab a gasket for the top of the airbox. The old foam one was crackly and broke apart in several places.
*5 Cleaned the plug wires and the cables which run around the air box. This became a good task due to the need to add a heat insulator to one of the spark plug wires as well as rebuild/clear a ton of corrosstion from all the connections on one particluar plug wire that was turning green with electrical corroding. Plus removed the spark coils and bead polished the grounding leads or metal mounting posts/where it mounts to the frame. This required a lot of inspection and just a minor bit of bead polishing. Then coated all the open electrical metal with dielectric grease.
*6 Placed and inspected the grandaddy bagger seat and started looking for ways to mount while at the same time avoiding any structural mods to the OEM frame etc. Considering modding strongle at this point due to uncovering some light frame damage from a tipping or collision incident from PO.
*7 Broke down the "fake tank" for inspection, repair, paint.
*8 Bead polished the foot pegs and forward foot pegs.
*9 Removed front right engine drag-bar for bead polishing.
*10 Double flushed the rear gear oil and refilled.


11 I know I did some more but, just can't think of it right now.

I'm liking very much how it fires up first time almost everytime. I think with regular use this will "always" be the case. Looking forward to having all the custom seat, fender, fake tank, handlebars, and bagging done for the 1980 gl1100 here at the "Mentally ill MC company #1327." = ]

Peace OUT! for now photos to follow?
 
Sounds good and your well underway making her roadworthy!

About the neutral light, have you heard of the short circuit fix? https://www.gl1000.info/NeutralLight.shtml

The writeup is on a GL1000 but the principle is the same for an 1100.

This is what I did on mine, didn't work but after I shorted it with the bike in neutral it's been working for at least 10k miles.
 
I've got a rebuilt neutral switch in my coffee table if I can just get to the bad one in the 1980 in the garage. I'm going for the switcheroo but, if it's too much trouble, I'm gonna blast it. Who knows after having 24 hours to sit, maybe the seafoam is getting some results?
 
Charisma? Are ya nekkid?!?

Meet my 80 gl 11. Put my first 30 miles on her this past weekend. :cool:
 

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