oil leak

[Glenn406]

My 81 gl1100i has an oil leak(looks like the front engine cover or transmission cover I guess its called) Looks like it would be fairly simple to solve. Anything I should know?

 

[backlander]

Is it coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the front trans cover ?

 

[scdmarx]

You need to make sure where the leak is coming from, but anyways - here's everything you need to know about that front cover.

viewtopic.php?f=76&t=2113

 

[joedrum]

water pump id think

 

[Glenn406]

Yes, it is coming from the weep hole. I thought it was the gasket of the transmission cover but that is just where it drips.

 

[backlander]

If you will click on the link provided in post #3 by scdmarx, it will walk you through the procedure to repair you oil leak. Happy wrenching.

 

[Glenn406]

Thanks,

After some study I assume that the water pump seal is the problem and that I probably should do the timing belts too. The engine runs great but I do hear a whine that I don't know if it is normal or not being as this is the first Gold wing that I have had ( first water cooled bike actually)

 

[backlander]

For oil to come out of the weep hole there has to be a failure of the rear o-ring on the water pump, rear water pump bearing or the crush washers on the three mounting bolts of the water pump. Yes it would be best to replace the timing belts if you don't know for sure when they were last changed or how many miles are on them. The whine noise could be from timing belt tensoners or the water pump.

 

[dan filipi]

Thanks,

After some study I assume that the water pump seal is the problem and that I probably should do the timing belts too. The engine runs great but I do hear a whine that I don't know if it is normal or not being as this is the first Gold wing that I have had ( first water cooled bike actually)

The transmission does whine some but so can the timing belt tensioners and belts, especially if the tension wasn't adjusted properly getting them too tight. The spring tension is what should be used to tension them, no more.

I think the tensioners are still available new though pricey.
We have a write-up here in the Gallery to rebuild them yourself if needed but as long as they roll smooth and don't feel "chunky" when holding them and spinning they should be fine.

 

[Glenn406]

I am getting ready to start the work on the water pump. Getting the parts together. The seal kit says that it doesn't include the mechanical seal. What is that?

 

[joedrum]

hmmmm not sure ...someone here rebuilt one though :headscratch:

 

[dan filipi]

The mechanical seal is the one inside the water pump.
If your putting in a new pump you won't need it.

 

[Glenn406]

Thank-you, I appreciate all the help you all are giving me.

 

[Glenn406]

Getting started on the front engine rebuild....took a little time off to strip paint, sand a lot and polish. Anybody think I'll have the patience to do the whole engine that way?

 

[backlander]

Let's see, Montana, :headscratch: winter time, :headscratch: yeah I'd say you have plenty of patience, :good: and time. :hihihi: :hihihi:

 

[ekvh]

Agree on the mechanical seal. I bought mine from GeorgeFix and questioned before I bought it and they said it didn't include the mechanical seal, but when I got the package, it was there.

 

[Glenn406]

Newly polished covers, too bad the radiator will cover it all up. New belts are in as well as water pump etc. Thanks for the step by step instructions!

 

[Bobo]

Looks great, Glenn! Think how good you'll be at that polishing after you've finished my '83 1100! Address please! :shock: :smilie_happy:

Sounds like the guys have you dialed in on the oil leak. Must take exception with otherwise all-knowing Dan. There is a spec for the timing belts, so use it. When the tensioner springs are 20+ years old, you can't count on them to pull the belts to the correct tension. Speaking from experience with my 1200, which I have to re-tension over the winter BECAUSE I counted on the damn tensioner springs. They're too loose, compared to the 1100 which I did to mm spec.

Good luck, Bud! :wave:

 

[joedrum]

good point bobo i always go for the correct deflection ...i think its a 1/4 eachway ,,,there is noway to get then right unless you go to nuetral spot first after set so there is no valve spring pressure on the belt then adjust ...then do other side

 

[dan filipi]

So when you order new belts, order 2 springs.