Question about ignition coils and resistance/application

[Fewman]

Well guys, couldn't wait. Weather here was 42 but sunny so I brought it back to life!! :yahoo: HOT DAMN! ...no leaks, no fire, what more could you ask for!!! :good: :Egyptian: :music: :yahoo: :yes:


Smokin' alittle but I expected it...cleared up shortly after the fan came on. Just adjusted idle so I could warm it up and change oil. When I started this endeavor, the crankcase was full of gas/oil and I wanted to get the first oil change hot and 'out of there'! I'll do the sync later this week.

Actually, I forgot that I got a FH008 instead of the FH012...$40 bucks on ebay sway'd me to the FH008. Looks like at initial start-up that the reg is working good. You can see the voltage at idle and at RPM (2nd photo actually coming dowm from 4000 before I could snap the photo. It takes about 20-30 seconds for the voltage to build from start-up but then it is pretty consistant in the mid 14 volts range. Granted it is performing for say, 25 minutes total to this point but I'm satisfied. Put my fingers on the reg/heatsink and it was only warm.

I reached in a couple times while the beast was running and the coils were warm but not hot. I'm even thnking that some of that heat was because the motor was warm enough to run the fan and the radiator being just below...that radiator was friggin' hot. :heat:

 

[dan filipi]

Thats a very good voltage at that rpm :rocks:

 

[scdmarx]

Interesting.

Just for kicks, while the cooling fan is running turn on the turn signal and apply the brake light at idle to see how low the volts go and some idea of how long it takes to get there. Then when the fan shuts off, let go of the brake light and turn signal and see how far back up the volts go and how long it takes.
:thanks:

 

[Fewman]

Well I got around to sync'ing the carbs today so I thought I would take scdmarx (and myself) up on the charging experiment... but first...

...as for this subject posting (Question about ignition coils and resistance/application)...
the 3ohm Dyna coils / Prestolite EI / no ballast are functioning well to this point. As a side note, if anyone thinks the Dyna ignition timing procedure is difficult or hard to understand...try setting the timing with the Prestolite! I have about a total of 60-80 minutes of running time (no pavement time yet) and about 25 minutes of ignition ON timing without any failure(s). After timing this beast, bike starts with a touch of the starter button :yes: .

FH008 charging circuit test:
System: new battery, freshly charged; FH008 essentially bolts on but you have to modify the heatsink for clearances; FH008's 2 red output leads (14ga?) terminated to 12ga leads at a Delphi plug, soldered together (buried in the harness) to a single 10ga lead connected directly to the battery, not fused; the 3-wire factory stator plug trashed (was burnt) and replaced with Delphi plug; new key switch 12ga wiring/fuse at the battery (no more t-bone fuse). I also inspected/cleaned every plug in the harness that I could get to. Everything listed below is at operating temp (hot), except start-up as noted. Headlight on high beam; all running lights/gauges operating; idle about 1000-1100 RPM.

Ignition on, not started: 12.78

Idle (start-up cold): voltage about 13.15 slowly rising and leveling at 14.61 after about 30 seconds.

Idle: ranges 14.54-14.61 (no change from cold to hot)

Idle w/brake light: ranges 14.50-14.61

Idle w/brake & blinker: ranges 13.57-13.64 (pulses with blinker cycle)

Idle w/fan: 14.57

Idle w/fan & brake: 13.31

Idle w/fan & brake & blinker: 12.98-13.05 (pulses with blinker cycle)

2500 RPM w/fan & brake & blinker: 14.43-14.46 (steady)

Idle (no fan/brake/blinker): ranges 14.54-14.61

Oh yea, about 2 minutes after I shut everything down, I remembered to check/touch the FH008 and it was barely warm.

Disclamer...I'm pretty happy :salute: :salute: :salute: :salute: :salute: :salute: (I like beer!) with the set-up but...

 

[mcgovern61]

Nice job! :clapping:

$40 bucks for the FH008 on ebay....I haven't seen one for less than $85 for months! (And I have been looking!) :read:

 

[scdmarx]

Thanks for that info. I think I'm sold. I wanna get one as soon as I ever get my head above water. :music:

 

[Fewman]

Yea, mcgovern, I think it was early Oct last year when I scored the FH008.
In reviewing my data, it looks like the threashold when you start loading the stator/regulator is when the brakes were applied with the fan. I guess you could talley up :read: the loads to find the current draw at that point.
I'm thinking about adding two 3 1/2" or 4" running lights (H3 25W-25w) later, mainly so I can be seen, but they are really hard to find under $100 for the pair... :shock: That might mean switching out a couple bulbs with LED's...but they ain't cheap either. :Awe:

 

[mwbill37841]

just got done resding all thhe posts on this and now either i'm really stupid or i v'e burned up to many brian cell in my younger years,i 'm still lost on this ele stuff. i read but it does'nt compute. bill

 

[cyborg]

I take that all back- think of voltage as electric pressure and current as electric flow- voltage is what causes the arc across the spark plug gap and as long as the coil is rated a high enough voltage output the resistance doesn't matter- I think....I don't know... Nevermind...

LOL, yeah I'm trying to get my head around how the resistance comes into play here, then second why the ballast resister is needed and why is it on the ground side of the primary and not the positive.

a ballest ris. is used to lower the running voltage to the coils. it is bypassed in the start position

 

[cyborg]

I take that all back- think of voltage as electric pressure and current as electric flow- voltage is what causes the arc across the spark plug gap and as long as the coil is rated a high enough voltage output the resistance doesn't matter- I think....I don't know... Nevermind...

LOL, yeah I'm trying to get my head around how the resistance comes into play here, then second why the ballast resister is needed and why is it on the ground side of the primary and not the positive.

also the bassast ris. by running the coils at a lower voltage, act the same as the 7volt suppy for the gauges. it keeps the input voltage stable as the system voltage moves up and down

 

[bk2valve]

Totally off the topic here but does anyone know if one of those very cool early tanks that have the hinged sides will fit on an 1100....?????
Brian

 

[cyborg]

not without a lot of modifications

 

[bk2valve]

OK, thanks Cyborg...
I'll let that idea go.....
Brian