Rear brake pedal

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D-50Dave

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I noticed, on my ride home from work, that the rear brake pedal doesn't return the way it should. I sprayed it liberally with WD40 at the spring/pivot and worked it up and down a bunch without much improvement. Suggestions? Thanx, Dave
 
First I'd check the pedal return spring. Then, after removing the pedal from the shaft and cleaning both surfaces, use a lubricant (not WD) on them. I believe the FSM lists grease. Also, while tge pedal is off check that the MC is returning. There is a tiny orifice in the MC that permits return of fluid and release of the pads.
 
This is just a side note, partially related to Dave's issue. My 83 aspy (shortly after I got it) started applying the rear brake gradually more after each use. First time I was barely able to get off the road before the rear wheel was locked up by the brake. After rebuilding the rear mc several times I still couldn't get the fluid to return to the reservoir, and the brakes would slowly lock up. After a bunch of measuring I discovered the genuine honda piston was too long so the reservoir return port wasn't opening...on a stock factory set of parts! I took a 1/16" off each end in the lathe (very carefully), reassembled the system, and have had no trouble for several years till the linked proprtioning valve went this year.
 
I had a couple of hours yesterday afternoon to dig into this. Gathered tools, gloves and a soft pad to work from and... the pedal was up! Worked perfectly. I'll ride it to work this morning and see what she does. Thanx for the input, Dave
 
I call the rear brake the 'assist brake', and treat it as such, lol! I think rear disc is over compensation on cars and bikes, but the GoldWings are heavy and I don't object to the relative ease of disc brake service compared to rear drum. I do find that even fully loaded the rear drum brake on my GL500i is more than adequate for its role. I had a 77 Yamaha XS750 that also had triple disc brakes, and the bike felt cumbersome for its displacement. It did have tons of low end torque, though, & felt as strong as my 81 GL1100.
I am not fond of rear wheel removal in general, and the heavier bikes can be a pain regarding this, so rear disc is at least a welcome from a service perspective. I use my rear brake primarily for slow-speed control, & to hold me still at stops.
Like you, I don't like a pedal that isn't working properly. I want the brakes to be predictable and as light on the touch as is practical. Sticky controls are a most unwanted distraction, lol!
 
This is just a side note, partially related to Dave's issue. My 83 aspy (shortly after I got it) started applying the rear brake gradually more after each use. First time I was barely able to get off the road before the rear wheel was locked up by the brake. After rebuilding the rear mc several times I still couldn't get the fluid to return to the reservoir, and the brakes would slowly lock up. After a bunch of measuring I discovered the genuine honda piston was too long so the reservoir return port wasn't opening...on a stock factory set of parts! I took a 1/16" off each end in the lathe (very carefully), reassembled the system, and have had no trouble for several years till the linked proprtioning valve went this year.
I'm having this same problem could you explain your fix my rear will roll but it always has slight resistance like it just not fully released. I've new master rebuild return port is clean , new brake line new caliper rebuild new caliper piston
 
Don't forget:
All manufacturers recommend replacing your brake fluid every few years, every two down here in Florida (humidity), as brake fluid is hydroscopic, and will take water into the system. Brake fluid is cheap, why keep the old fluid?
 
First thing I did to prove my theory was measure the distance the return port needs to be open. Then measure how much room the piston takes up. I found the piston still covered the port when in the retracted position.. I think I took more pics, I'll look. Yup, here's the link. https://classicgoldwings.com/threads/83-aspy-rear-master-lockup.6880/
 
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That scraping could be caliper piston not moving far enough...or something in the mounting setup. Is the rotor close to centered in the caliper? Is the caliper crooked compared to the disc?
I have that problem with the rear brake on my harley. They/we can't figure it out so I'm good at swapping pads sooner than thd book says.
 

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