Relay fuse panel feed Mod

[OldWrench]

Found the short after tearing the wire harness apart. Shorted in wiring to the flasher relay. Next question, why is there a negative on the flasher relay circuit? I think I'm just going to go with a electronic flasher and LED bulbs.

 

[dan filipi]

My understanding is back then the relays needed a ground to sense load so if one bulb burned out, your signals would blink faster to tell you. I've tried a couple 2 wire flashers which just stop blinking if a bulb is removed. Could still be the case ground is needed?

 

[Ansimp]

There are just 2 wire and 3 wire flashers as they all sense load unless they are fixed flash rates for leds etc. the Japanese 3 terminal flasher relays usually have an earth as the third pin where the European ones often use the third pin as the warning lamp feed in the dash ( C terminal).

 

[dan filipi]

Ansimp » Today, 2:11 pm[/url]":2tfekyot]
There are just 2 wire and 3 wire flashers as they all sense load unless they are fixed flash rates for leds etc. the Japanese 3 terminal flasher relays usually have an earth as the third pin where the European ones often use the third pin as the warning lamp feed in the dash ( C terminal).

That's not entirely true. If you mean that all 2 wire flashers will sense if one bulb burns out then the flash will speed up. I have 2 here that won't do that so I went back to a stock 3 wire flasher that does.

 

[Denver]

Always wondered why flasher sped up when a bulb goes bad in a car. :headscratch: Do like the fact that it lets you know, :yes: have had to change a couple flasher's, but mostly bulbs.

 

[OldWrench]

Thanks for the input, I'm going to go with a two wire electronic flasher designed for LED lights, how it will react if one bulb burns out, I don't know, will find out. I have a new distribution panel, and relays. Key switch will now only trigger the 30 amp relay. I'm also putting the brake lights and turn signals on separate circuits.

 

[Ansimp]

OldWrench » Sat Jun 11, 2016 12:57 am[/url]":26qwykce]
Thanks for the input, I'm going to go with a two wire electronic flasher designed for LED lights, how it will react if one bulb burns out, I don't know, will find out. I have a new distribution panel, and relays. Key switch will now only trigger the 30 amp relay. I'm also putting the brake lights and turn signals on separate circuits.

Led flasher units are usually not load sensitive so they will not change their rate if a light is not working.

 

[OldWrench]

Well Nix the electronic flasher, read the instruction, needs a 25 amp fuse, so back to the standard two wire.

Ok, the deeper I get into this wiring, the more I'm amazed this old girl hung in so long. Seperated the stator plug, what a mess.

 

[OldWrench]

I mounted the distribution panel today, had to modify the base where the old fuse holder went. Cut some 18 ga metal and tacked it in so the panel would fit securely.

Located the 30 amp relay next to where the flasher mounts, color coding is off but will fix that.

Now for the question, I have new plugs for the Stator wiring, but I just realized they are only rated for 20 amps per pin, I have no idea what amperage comes out of that stator. It is obvious those stator wires got pretty hot, but I wonder if the heat was caused by poor connectorns. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Shame on me, this is the time of year we are suppose to be riding, not overhauling.

 

[slabghost]

Since the primary fuse for the bike is the 30 amp dogbone. I guess 20 amps per pin should be a bit better than stock at 60 amps for the connection.

 

[OldWrench]

The service manual doesn't say anything about amperage potential out of the stator. You must remember if you have a circuit that is say 20 amps, that is 20 amps positive and negative, meaning each circuit will be caring 20 amps. I know I will know once I get the wiring put back together, what a mess this is.

 

[Ansimp]

OldWrench » Sat Jun 11, 2016 12:19 pm[/url]":8w0rjqat]
The service manual doesn't say anything about amperage potential out of the stator. You must remember if you have a circuit that is say 20 amps, that is 20 amps positive and negative, meaning each circuit will be caring 20 amps. I know I will know once I get the wiring put back together, what a mess this is.

The stator is 20 amps total AC so that is 7 amps per leg or connection. No worries with the FM 3 pin plugs just use new ones,as the originals only failed because the brass terminals became loose causing arcing and heat generation that melted the plugs. Your electronic flasher will run on a lower amp fuse as the 25 amps is a maximum rating of the contacts ( similar with relays)

 

[OldWrench]

Thanks again for the response. I do know lose or poor connections can create a lot of heat, and the spade terminals seem to be very susceptible to having connection problems. I think I will solder my wiring to the distribution block then seal them, for that very reason. I didn't realize the PO had been so far into the wiring harness. I'm going to end up with only two circuits coming out of the key switch, second being for the parking (tail lights on).

 

[OldWrench]

Here is the schematic I came up with, it isn't perfect but does show the changes I made. It doesn't show the complete wiring because the remainder is stock.

Note the brown wire coming off the key switch, that is for the park position, there is no power to the relay for the distribution panel in the park position.

 

[dan filipi]

Nice looking schematic. Mine are chicken scratches in comparison.

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:16 am[/url]":33b1q1yl]
Nice looking schematic. Mine are chicken scratches in comparison.

+1 :clapping:

 

[OldWrench]

No Dan, yours is complete and easy to follow, most probably don't realize how much work you put into color coding the schematic.

 

[mcgovern61]

OldWrench » Tue Jun 21, 2016 8:01 pm[/url]":27z7zr7d]
Here is the schematic I came up with, it isn't perfect but does show the changes I made. It doesn't show the complete wiring because the remainder is stock.



Note the brown wire coming off the key switch, that is for the park position, there is no power to the relay for the distribution panel in the park position.

Following your schematic, did you take the red positive wire from the 30 amp fuse to the relay and to the key switch?

 

[OldWrench]

Yes I did, I needed a positive to the key switch for two reasons, to activate the 30 amp relay and power to the tail lights with the key in the park position. Notice the red wire on the schematic that comes off the hot side of the relay then up to the key switch.

Can you enlarge the schematic to where you can read the labels, if not I could send it to you in a pdf or jpg full page format.

 

[mcgovern61]

When the schematic is enlarged it distorts. I see on the schematic the red continues from the relay to the key switch. Did you just cut the wire and attach at the relay and run a new wire to the key switch? Any pics?