Year model your working on and what carb do you have it connected to ?
Rescue
- Thread starter Dadster
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
I assume your working on the 1200, if you are here is a diagram that might decode those hoses for you.
OP
OP
I'm working on the gl1500. Did some more research and from what I read it is the fuel overflow. Link here. I have the same problem. https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16578
Denver
Well-known member
Not a bad site. Lot of helpful people over there trying to share info they have acquired over the years. Good info on fuel pumps, one i saw over there seems to be a GREAT pump. Ordered plugs, & extra connectors, so as to keep wiring harness on the bike stock. Can always go back to stock, just unplug replacement pump, & plug a stock one back in. Hate when someone splices a harness instead of making up a jumper harness, not that hard to do. Looks so much more like maybe this was done by someone who was into doing a GOOD JOB, & knew how. Believe the one Dan was asking about was used on an 1100, don't know just how it was wired there, like Dan didn't like the fuel outlet. Went with one mentioned before, Beck/Arnley, & couldn't be happier with it so far. Made by Mitsubishi, same people who made the originals, but made well enough for a cars much more demanding lifestyle. Cold weather, & believe they were mounted UNDERNEATH the car. Going to take my chances, & change both my other 1200's over as soon as all the parts get here.
OP
OP
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=151367#p151367:3s6q5ely said:
Keep us posted on your progress. My pump was shot so called local Honda dealer and nearly fell outa my chair when they quoted a price. So I went with an Airtex Fuel Pump # E8371. Working out the kinks now.
Denver
Well-known member
Their E8310 is listed as a choice of pumps for the same car, & looks a lot like the stock one,but larger, bolts right into the stock spot. :yes: E8371 looks like a flow through design. Should work just fine, as the pressure is not too high, & good mfg almost always means no problems. :good:
OP
OP
After 8 - 10 years sitting the gl1500 finally started up today. New auto fuel pump, new fuel filter and cleaned carbs. This is what I love about working on these bikes. To take a Goldwing someone left go for years and bring it back to life. What a sense of accomplishment. At my age that's a great feeling. Now I need to check the transmission and make sure reverse still works then on to the brakes. Got myself all pumped up. :yahoo:
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2013
- Messages
- 9,855
- Reaction score
- 34
- Location
- Brisbane Australia
- My Bike Models
- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
:good: :clapping: :salute:
I am in awe, very cool
slabghost
Well-known member
Great news indeed!
Denver
Well-known member
:music: Great news
Cool! 
OP
OP
Need some input. The bike idles but surges to about 1500 rpm when it starts to warm up. I noticed the petcock leaking slightly in the splash tray. Ordered rebuild kit. I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak causing the idle problem. Also once it's warmed up get white smoke from exhaust, both sides. It doesn't run rough but smokes up the garage big time. As I said this thing sat 8 or 10 years so could both head gaskets be at fault?
slabghost
Well-known member
probably excess moisture and unburnt gas causing the smoke. I'm pretty sure that has the vacuum to the fuel valve so that would be the first vac line to check. Put it outside and run it some with the fuel off.
Denver
Well-known member
Your petcock will not open without vac, so i got rid of mine, thought it was not a good idea. :nea: You can insert a manual valve to shut off fuel when needed for not a lot of cash. :yes: Only time that any of mine are shut off is when the lines are taken off.
OP
OP
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=152509#p152509:2ehhitf0 said:
Great idea. :good: Eliminating the petcock controlled by vacuum would be one less thing to go wrong. The simpler the better. That I will do.
Still have the smoke problem to figure out. But one step at a time.
I bypassed the petcock on mine as many do when it started leaking. I've had no problems. The first gl1500's didn't even have one. The surge is not that fuel valve vacuum hose.
Denver
Well-known member
That's true, mine has done this before, it almost sounds like its panting a bit when it's good & warm. Never really thought much about it as it ran well, but think it stopped when carb's were redone at about 140,000. Have not ran either faired bike in over a month, standard time!!!
OP
OP
Update..... Cured the smoke problem. Added Seafoam to the gas, pulled the bike outside and fired it up. Let it run about 45 minutes. Thought someone would call the fire dept. It smoked like hell for about 20 minutes then slowly the smoke subsided till the exhaust cleared up. Runs great. Idles good with a little surge once in a while.
Got most of the plastic off and starting to paint. Decided on red metal flake. Doing it all with spray cans. Got a couple parts done and the flake really pops. The process is easy but time consuming. I got nothing else to do so it keeps me out of trouble. Wish I was good with a video cam. I'd post on youtube but that's not happening. I will post some pics later but pics can't do it justice. All the paint is Rustoleum including the metal flake. The metal flake has big flake, not the tiny flake in their metallic spay paint. The clear is Eastwood 2k. I'll post the process I use in case someone wants to try this some day.
One question, the side covers have foam insulation glued inside for engine heat protection. The foam has deteriorated and crumbles off easy. Does anyone know what I can use to replace it?
Got most of the plastic off and starting to paint. Decided on red metal flake. Doing it all with spray cans. Got a couple parts done and the flake really pops. The process is easy but time consuming. I got nothing else to do so it keeps me out of trouble. Wish I was good with a video cam. I'd post on youtube but that's not happening. I will post some pics later but pics can't do it justice. All the paint is Rustoleum including the metal flake. The metal flake has big flake, not the tiny flake in their metallic spay paint. The clear is Eastwood 2k. I'll post the process I use in case someone wants to try this some day.
One question, the side covers have foam insulation glued inside for engine heat protection. The foam has deteriorated and crumbles off easy. Does anyone know what I can use to replace it?
slabghost
Well-known member
Summit sells insulation for body panels in cars. I'd probably just clean the rest off and forget it though.
