Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

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Nice Dan,

looks good,

That elec. choke is BIG!!

Where did you end up getting your carb from?
 
OK found which one is the Vacuum advance port,

Looking at Dan's carb., as it is in the picture, it is the port on the Right.
 
Putting those hoses on can be a three or four handed deal, especially the last hose.

I wish i had the right connection in the shop, I haven't changed them to what I need for my plasma gun and welder, it's a different connector.

I could cut out a bracket in no time.

I went and got the rest of the clamps i needed today, got the piece of hose for the vacuum advance, so Vacuum advance is hooked up, and fuel line is hooked up.

Now i need to put back the cooling system.

I need to make the bracket, maybe i can saw and file it, this is tough using manual hand tools, slow to.
 
This is my sample mock up using 1" PVC pipe.

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Clamps are loose so I could tweak it around.
The angles are tough with that offset between right and left banks. Not sure what to do.
Ideas?
Easier to line them up with hose?
 
More pictures,

5th picture down is my uni kit, for the throttle, it works really well so far and it positively locks the throttle cable end in, so it cannot get loose.

Next is to make my cable stop bracket, sure would be nice if my plasma cutter was working, i could make more than 20 of them in the time it takes me to make one by hand.
 

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Dan,

At first I used some hose that was Way to Stiff, It was a Silicone rubber hose, fuel rated, high temp.

It would not make the curves needed to get the hardware started/installed

I went to Napa, surprising i know, they had just what I needed.

I also had to get a Hose clamp backer to support the hose being clamped. The was a trip to get some ridged thin wall tubing.

It all worked out, Well, I will know more when i go to fire it up, and check for vacuum leaks.

The new hose is also silicone rubber, fuel rated, High temp, but flexes more, so you can make those curves work

You have the engine out is that to install the C5 ignition?
 
Sorry, had my notes out in the shop,

This hose is not cheap $ but they sell it by the inch
It is Silicone fuel hose and is rated for High temp and high pressure, Turbo rated.

Note Not Tested!!

Bill of material
1. approx 24 inches Napa belts/hose Fleet flex Gold #630, this is 1-1/4" ID I used this for the intake runners, it has some flex but you still have to work it to make it fit. It is firm so i think it will not collapse. $42.00

2. 1.250 OD x 1.145 ID x .055 wall steel tube this is the clamp backer support, i cut 8 of these Approx. 3/4"- long (One of these goes into each end of the above 1-1/4" hose) 5 feet min. $10.00

3. Approx 12" Napa Belts/Hose Fleet flex Gold #632 this is 1-1/2" ID, I used this for a seal over the VW Plenum and clamped over the 1-1/4 #630 hose. $20.00

4. 8ea #24 Clamps form Napa $.75-1.00 ea ?

NOTE: I have Not tried this yet to see if it has any leaks yet but i am getting close.

Everything clamps really tightly, I tried to pull each connection apart and could not.

Those prices are approx.
 
To cut the hose,

I measured, then used blue painters tape, to mark a clean line around the hose, then cut it around the tape line, with a X-Acto knive.
 
I know that performance, reliability and other reasons are involved in these conversions, my question is what is the projected mpg once completed. I like what I see, I am just curious as to the mpg.
 
I think that may be right wrist dependent.

I have a hard time taking it easy on something new, especially after you get used to it.

First month Lousy MPG.

After that who knows, I would expect the MPG to go down.

Now I now some one I trust on another goldwing site that has Juan's manifold and a Solex 34Pict3 34mm bore, single Barrel carb. on a GL1200 he say's he is getting 41-44 mpg average,

Now, If you could stay out of that second Barrel, seeing that it is only a 24mm bore, I would think decent milage could be had at least same as stock, with convenience of single barrel, and More low end torque, if you could be happy not using all that new found torque, I don't know if i could at least at first anyway.

MPG Unknown?
 
Could not Modify it, to late.
But,
If you go back to my pictures of the Uni kit, picture #5.

You can see in that picture also the Elec. Choke was removed, & a block off plate installed. The Vacuum port under that plate is sealed to prevent vacuum leaks.

Looks like no choke will be needed, but i can make it into a manual choke if needed.

A vista cruise control is what some guys use, with a accelerator pump, a few low revs, and set the vista cruise control to 1200-1500rpm let it sit there for 5 minutes, then go.
 
From the info i have been reading, That solenoid on the front of your carb Dan should be removed, and a plug put in.

But you can try it if you want to, you will notice that mine has been removed.

The same guy said that manifold heat is essential for it to run at it's best, and gave me the aerosol can spray analogy, and that icing will happen.

I am going to wait, i can add heat later if needed.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95118#p95118:1ut0b7e3 said:
westgl » Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:16 pm[/url]":1ut0b7e3]
The same guy said that manifold heat is essential for it to run at it's best, and gave me the aerosol can spray analogy, and that icing will happen. I am going to wait, i can add heat later if needed.

Why/how does this happen?
 
The guy i am talking about was a engineer for gm carb./induction systems,

the heat keeps the atomized fuel in the atomized state, when the fuel freezes the fuel fall out of the air into droplets and we have poor drive-ability.

I can provide a link to this guy's, his name is Tom Langdon, his recommendation for heat, But he was very definite about adding heat or I would have poor drive-ability.

Manifold Heat Link
https://stoveboltengineco.com/2013/08/wh ... -manifold/

BUT!!!!!
The guy's that run the Single Barrel carb's like the Solex 34Pict3 and the 30Pict1 do not seem to be having this freezing/Icing drive-ability issue.

It seems to be a Two barrel thing, or Maybe it is a VW Manifold thing.

It could be the very small size manifold that they use on Juan's and LDwingnut manifold I bet they have VERY High Speed through that style of manifold does not require heat.

Joe does not seem to be having this issue, BUT!!! he does have to choke it down, so I am not sure, if that is compensating for the freezing/Icing, and that I will have the same issue.
Or just add heat to the Bottom of the VW TypeIV manifold.


[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95142#p95142:1n9virvz said:
mcgovern61 » Fri Sep 06, 2013 4:51 am[/url]":1n9virvz]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95118#p95118:1n9virvz said:
westgl » Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:16 pm[/url]":1n9virvz]
The same guy said that manifold heat is essential for it to run at it's best, and gave me the aerosol can spray analogy, and that icing will happen. I am going to wait, i can add heat later if needed.

Why/how does this happen?
 
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