Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb
- Thread starter westgl
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Best way to do video's is load them to Youtube. You'll need to create an account there of course.
Then link the video in your post.
Then link the video in your post.
I may not have mentioned this.
No hiccups at all, Idles very nice and smooth, at 1000-1100 rpm.
Revved it to 2k held it there, held it at 3k, then 4k for 30secs. each very smooth.
Revved into secondaries to 8k+ Nice and very fast!!
Surprisingly Fast to 8K+ really fast.
No flat spots at all, Only sweet spots.
This was all at No load, as i have not made my throttle Hold Bracket to hold the cable.
Restarts are excellent.
Starts Instantly.
It really revvs FAST
No hiccups at all, Idles very nice and smooth, at 1000-1100 rpm.
Revved it to 2k held it there, held it at 3k, then 4k for 30secs. each very smooth.
Revved into secondaries to 8k+ Nice and very fast!!
Surprisingly Fast to 8K+ really fast.
No flat spots at all, Only sweet spots.
This was all at No load, as i have not made my throttle Hold Bracket to hold the cable.
Restarts are excellent.
Starts Instantly.
It really revvs FAST
I did change to the MP08 GL1500 Coils and used the GL1500 spark plug Wires to.
If you look in the pictures you can see that the spark plug wires a couple of them take a funny turn.
But they were in spec for a GL1500 that is.
The GL1500 ignition coils and wires are much better than what I had on the bike before.
She's as Sweet as BBQ Pork Meat, at least that's what Kermit said about Mrs. Piggy
If you look in the pictures you can see that the spark plug wires a couple of them take a funny turn.
But they were in spec for a GL1500 that is.
The GL1500 ignition coils and wires are much better than what I had on the bike before.
She's as Sweet as BBQ Pork Meat, at least that's what Kermit said about Mrs. Piggy
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Anxious to read your ride report!
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Maybe I could win the cheesy award for this one.
It's a Rigid brand vacuum cleaner hose.
Lol, don't think it would last long, just trial fitting this and that I have around the shop.
It's a Rigid brand vacuum cleaner hose.
Lol, don't think it would last long, just trial fitting this and that I have around the shop.
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I believe that this is the truest indication of how well the C5 ignition works, Hooch appears to run well even with an overly rich mixture (black plugs) :good:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95185#p95185:1hyrytiv said:
Slinky, Slinky,
I like cheese.
Dan, what ever works.
With that said the amount of gasoline in the air charge going through that tube at any time is not really that much.
You could use radiator hose and it would work especially if you used that thin walled tubing to support the clamped ends, the actual tube/hose length of the runners is under 5" each
probably closer to 4.25"-4.50" OAL long of 1.25"id hose and there is 2" of Clamp support tubing 1" in each end,
so the unsupported length is more like 2-1/4" in the center of the hose length, if needed a short spring in the middle will keep it from collapsing,
Just make sure the hose is smooth in the ID, they had some stuff that looked like a wash board inside the ID, same for the 1.5"ID
Not only that, but it would get you back running fast, you could alwasy look it over from time to time during a maintenance to see how it is holding up
Radiator hoses are durable some have a woven cord in them
It would be a lot cheaper,
Radiator hoses hold up to Coolant/anti-freeze and Oil. I think it would last a long time.
If you get any collapsing, (I dont think you would) put in a short Spring in the ID, center of the hose. i think you would be fine.
I like cheese.
Dan, what ever works.
With that said the amount of gasoline in the air charge going through that tube at any time is not really that much.
You could use radiator hose and it would work especially if you used that thin walled tubing to support the clamped ends, the actual tube/hose length of the runners is under 5" each
probably closer to 4.25"-4.50" OAL long of 1.25"id hose and there is 2" of Clamp support tubing 1" in each end,
so the unsupported length is more like 2-1/4" in the center of the hose length, if needed a short spring in the middle will keep it from collapsing,
Just make sure the hose is smooth in the ID, they had some stuff that looked like a wash board inside the ID, same for the 1.5"ID
Not only that, but it would get you back running fast, you could alwasy look it over from time to time during a maintenance to see how it is holding up
Radiator hoses are durable some have a woven cord in them
It would be a lot cheaper,
Radiator hoses hold up to Coolant/anti-freeze and Oil. I think it would last a long time.
If you get any collapsing, (I dont think you would) put in a short Spring in the ID, center of the hose. i think you would be fine.
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95232#p95232:2sx583qb said:dan filipi » Fri Sep 06, 2013 4:23 pm[/url]":2sx583qb]
Maybe I could win the cheesy award for this one.
It's a Rigid brand vacuum cleaner hose.
Lol, don't think it would last long, just trial fitting this and that I have around the shop.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,403
- Reaction score
- 238
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
"Whatever works". I thought I was the only one that says that. Cool.
This vacuum hose is a rubbery plastic inside. I may just make up all 4 this way to test run without spending any money.
This vacuum hose is a rubbery plastic inside. I may just make up all 4 this way to test run without spending any money.
Sorry Joe, i missed this post,
I think i probably can see most all of the jets from under the air filter hold down bracket?
I will have to go to the shop tomorrow when there is more light to see those tiny numbers on the jets.
I will see what i can find out.
I have to say just running it statically it seems like it is dead nuts on, Of coarse under a load can be totally different.
Had dual carbs on a 1969 Bug, I had 2180cc dual 48 IDA webers, that thing was a beast, had it get really squrilly on me several times.
Also had dual side draft 40mm carbs on a 70's corolla, also had dual solex 34's carbs on a 1641cc baja bug
I think i probably can see most all of the jets from under the air filter hold down bracket?
I will have to go to the shop tomorrow when there is more light to see those tiny numbers on the jets.
I will see what i can find out.
I have to say just running it statically it seems like it is dead nuts on, Of coarse under a load can be totally different.
Had dual carbs on a 1969 Bug, I had 2180cc dual 48 IDA webers, that thing was a beast, had it get really squrilly on me several times.
Also had dual side draft 40mm carbs on a 70's corolla, also had dual solex 34's carbs on a 1641cc baja bug
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95203#p95203:wj1q76hb said:
One of the reasons I wanted to do a single carb conversion
Was because my bike likes to hydrolock, I think it actually enjoys it.
It is my fault for not turning off the tank fuel shut off, but my GL1200 has never done it.
Any way went out to check on bike at 9:30 p.m. last night.
No fuel leaks on top of engine or under it.
No coolant leaks.
Started engine, engine started instantly, held throttle at 1500rpm for less than 15 seconds, then let it idle, it idled perfectly, and ran perfectly.
That Accelerator pump really makes it very easy to start the engine, and rev it.
It just seems to be running flawless
Was because my bike likes to hydrolock, I think it actually enjoys it.
It is my fault for not turning off the tank fuel shut off, but my GL1200 has never done it.
Any way went out to check on bike at 9:30 p.m. last night.
No fuel leaks on top of engine or under it.
No coolant leaks.
Started engine, engine started instantly, held throttle at 1500rpm for less than 15 seconds, then let it idle, it idled perfectly, and ran perfectly.
That Accelerator pump really makes it very easy to start the engine, and rev it.
It just seems to be running flawless
great same thing I thogh great job weatgl
I do have to give some Credit here.
For Suggesting, this 32 DFT carb, it is the Carb that Captain Midnight is running in his video.
I was skeptical at first, that it may be over carbed, But not anymore!
Captain midnight, said that it would run great, right out of the box, and it would not need any jetting at all, he was right.
But! I still have Not ridden it and put it under a load
For Suggesting, this 32 DFT carb, it is the Carb that Captain Midnight is running in his video.
I was skeptical at first, that it may be over carbed, But not anymore!
Captain midnight, said that it would run great, right out of the box, and it would not need any jetting at all, he was right.
But! I still have Not ridden it and put it under a load
I bought the 32DFT from a company, that was started by a retired Fuel/carb. Engineer, that designed and worked for GM.
Tom is the engineer, he now has his own business, one of the things he sells is this Weber 32DFT carb. they are Brand New carb.s Not rebuilt, for $90.00 ea.
It is surprising how it looks identical to the 740 carb except for the Venturi size.
The 740 is a MotorCraft/Ford Holley, Weber carb 24/25 mm progressive, used on 1981-1986 ford Escort/Lynx engines 1.6L
The 32DFT is a Carter, Weber Carb 32/32 mm Progressive used on Ford Fiesta 1300cc OHV, & Escort XR3 & other vehicles, it was made for small engines, look at that Ford Fiesta 1300 OHV sounds close to what we are using it for size wise that is.
Weber, must have taken something that was already proven and made a different sizes.
There was also a Weber 32/34 that also looked like the 740 & the 32dft,
Observations:
Looking down into the bore's/venturi's from the top of the carb. past the choke plates,
These two carb's, The 740 & the 32dft looking into the Venturi's,
I forget what they call them.
This part reduces the venturi bore size down, to a smaller than venturi size, after the Choke plates, but, before the throttle plates at the bottom of the carb. designed to speed up air flow, by reducing venturi size, (they were replaceable in different sizes on my Weber 48IDA carbs) both 740 & 32dft are sized very similar on these bore reducers, but the venturi throttle plate size is obviously different.
Tom is the engineer, he now has his own business, one of the things he sells is this Weber 32DFT carb. they are Brand New carb.s Not rebuilt, for $90.00 ea.
It is surprising how it looks identical to the 740 carb except for the Venturi size.
The 740 is a MotorCraft/Ford Holley, Weber carb 24/25 mm progressive, used on 1981-1986 ford Escort/Lynx engines 1.6L
The 32DFT is a Carter, Weber Carb 32/32 mm Progressive used on Ford Fiesta 1300cc OHV, & Escort XR3 & other vehicles, it was made for small engines, look at that Ford Fiesta 1300 OHV sounds close to what we are using it for size wise that is.
Weber, must have taken something that was already proven and made a different sizes.
There was also a Weber 32/34 that also looked like the 740 & the 32dft,
Observations:
Looking down into the bore's/venturi's from the top of the carb. past the choke plates,
These two carb's, The 740 & the 32dft looking into the Venturi's,
I forget what they call them.
This part reduces the venturi bore size down, to a smaller than venturi size, after the Choke plates, but, before the throttle plates at the bottom of the carb. designed to speed up air flow, by reducing venturi size, (they were replaceable in different sizes on my Weber 48IDA carbs) both 740 & 32dft are sized very similar on these bore reducers, but the venturi throttle plate size is obviously different.
so you are saying that the 32-32DFT is choked down on top as the the 740 is ... and is not 32-32 as for air flow into top ....its starting to sound that the 32-32DFT is smaller than 740
I wonder? how the 32DFT weber carb would work as a Single carb. conversion,
for a GL1500 6cyl.?
Stock GL1500 is two cv33 mm carbs.
I have a GL1500 trike, that may get a new induction conversion, probably have to re-jet the carb. though.
A really simple Manifold, (Much easier to do, than the GL1100 manifold) can be made to fit the GL1500.
__________________
for a GL1500 6cyl.?
Stock GL1500 is two cv33 mm carbs.
I have a GL1500 trike, that may get a new induction conversion, probably have to re-jet the carb. though.
A really simple Manifold, (Much easier to do, than the GL1100 manifold) can be made to fit the GL1500.
__________________
Using post #51 as the guide line.
Making a couple of U shaped Manifold's for left & right side Cylinders
How about mounting a set of Dual Single Barrel carbs, like the 30pict1, or Dual 740 or 32dft 2bbl progressive carbs, wonder if that would be to much?
Making a couple of U shaped Manifold's for left & right side Cylinders
How about mounting a set of Dual Single Barrel carbs, like the 30pict1, or Dual 740 or 32dft 2bbl progressive carbs, wonder if that would be to much?
Well, no the 32dft does have a larger tapered area, but the look is very similar, as the bore in both have a hour glass taper, large at the top taper throught that venturi reducer, than back to there original size.
The 32DFT has two 32mm venturi throttle plates, as i measured them with calipers.
The 32DFT has two 32mm venturi throttle plates, as i measured them with calipers.
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=95281#p95281:1i3hhe13 said:
I think this forum and how we go after things here .... were in a wonderland of huge advancement ...here we all all try to inform and not hide things or discount things for no reason at all ...here at classic were going to have the best running bike cause that's our main goal ... nothing else comes close to bumping this policy ... this is all great work and very informative with no boundries to sidetrack results
