Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[westgl]

Bill of material Revised
Only 20" of #1 is needed, should save you a few $$
I started with 6" long for each hose/tube, I think you can start with 5" for each Hose/tube, then start cutting, them down from there.
Tip, Last Hose leave it cut about a 1/4"-3/8" longer than the rest or you think it needs to be, this will be the hardest Hose/tube to put in. The extra length will be a very good thing.

I only used about 8" total of #3

1. approx 24 inches Napa belts/hose Fleet flex Gold #630, this is 1-1/4" ID I used this for the intake runners, it has some flex but you still have to work it to make it fit. It is firm so i think it will not collapse. $42.00

2. 1.250 OD x 1.145 ID x .055 wall steel tube this is the clamp backer support, i cut 8 of these Approx. 3/4"- long (One of these goes into each end of the above 1-1/4" hose) 5 feet min. $10.00

3. Approx 12" Napa Belts/Hose Fleet flex Gold #632 this is 1-1/2" ID, I used this for a seal over the VW Plenum and clamped over the 1-1/4 #630 hose. $20.00

4. 8ea #24 Clamps form Napa $.75-1.00 ea ?

NOTE: I have Not tried this yet to see if it has any leaks yet but i am getting close.

 

[brianinpa]

The more I read these ongoing threads, the easier this is looking. Keep it up guys and you will soon have me convinced to give it a shot too.

 

[westgl]

With the VW manifold Installed, I can make an adapter plate, to sit on the manifold and try different carbs.

I can try some of the single barrel carbs I have like my

Solex 34pict3 34mm Single bbl.
Solex 30pict1 30mm Single bbl.

Or my other progressive Two barrel on this.
This carb fits without the adapter plate

32DFT it is a 32x32 2bbl. and is identical to the 740 carb, other than the venturi size. From what I can see any way.

 

[westgl]

Also in talking to Tom at Landon's about these carbs he said that he has fuel pressure tested them without the solenoid installed, on the front of the carb to 10PSI and he did not get any fuel past the float valve.

10psi is way more than we should ever need. a Electric fuel pump should only be putting out 3-4psi maybe 5psi max. for Carb.

He also said that the solenoid was not for a fuel cut off like i thought it was and would not work as that function, and would only provide me problems.

This sounded promising to cure my Hydrolock situation.

I bought a 58' Corvette, still have it, the previous owner put on a Fuel injection high pressure mech. fuel pump on it, (little is good, so a lot must be even better) it was flooding like crazy, till I put on a low pressure fuel pump.

 

[joedrum]

yes ive mouth tested this I surly don't see it leaking at all

 

[westgl]

Electric fuel Pump,

This did NOT get good reviews,
But i have one on a carb'd 58' Corvette for more than 3 years, and it works fine for me.
There is an electric fuel pump that others have used on a Goldwing, it is a Mr. Gasket 42S Pressure rated at 2-3.5psi @ 42gph, No fuel regulator needed.

Many places carry them, Napa, Autozone

I have not used any of these Below.
Carter seems to still be a better brand of pump

Another Pump is the Honda Car, and toyota car & pickup fuel pump replacement
Amazon, JC whitney, local Napa, Autozone probably has them.
part number
#REPV314515

https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/T ... est+Seller
or
https://www.jcwhitney.com/replacement-oe ... rid=d983j1
or
https://autofuelpumpnozzleprices.info/sh ... -88-89-90/

 

[westgl]

This is another carb. i want to try on my New Single manifold, to see how it works.

This Solex 30Pict1, has been run with No Heat, and No Icing issues on a different Intake manifold.

Here is a exploded view of the 30Pict1 Round Float carb.

Single 30mm bore, elec. choke, small carb. can fit in the frame and still use the elec. choke, no space issues.

the 30Pict1 Round bowl carb, requires a main jet change to a .050 to run properly.

Main jet is #13 , but you have to remove #11, 12, & 13, that is easily done from the outside of the carb.

 

[westgl]

Another carb i want to try, is the 34Pict3,

This carb has been used on GL1200 with success, and with NO heat, and No Icing Issues, on a different intake mnaifold.

Solex 34Pict3 34mm Bore single bbl. carb.

A Russian Guy named Sergey has this running very well on his GL1200
and so does
Blueridgerunner

They are both running this 34Pict3 carb. with two adjustment screws 2-1/2 turns out from seat, with stock jets.

On the Stevesaunders site.

 

[westgl]

Another thought I had to make a Intake Manifold like the
Juans & LDwingnut manifold.

Is to take a spare Goldwing head with the OEM manifold's mounted, to a muffler shop.

Probably use some 1.625" OD x .055-.062 thin wall tube, with 1.5" ID silicone hose, the connects would very easy also.

This seems like, to me, that it would have a better/Faster charge speed into the cyl.'s. as it would be smaller ID of the manifold, less of a larger air gap, like the vw manifold has and more directed.

Have the muffler shop mandrel bend a couple of 180 degree U shaped manifold ends, the correct size thin wall Steel tubing to go from one manifold to the other,

Like from Front to Rear cyl. on left side and Front to Rear cyl. on right side head, so they can be clamped in the oem manifolds,

then at the top or end of the bend open a hole.

Have muffler guy weld on a short piece of straight pipe on the new opening.

Now you could use that same Silicone hose, between the two new piece's muffler guy just bent.

Then a third piece could be made for the center section to mount the single barrel carb on, again using the same steel tubing for the center section and making a carb. mounting plate.

I may build one of these also, Just to prove it, after i get the current one going.

I will need to change connectors for my shop's 220V outlets, for my Compressor, Plasma Gun, and Welder, so they will be ready to go here at the new shop.

 

[dan filipi]

Your post 51 is something I'm looking at also.

Good stuff Wes.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm ......as of just before wreck .... I did a ck on hooch ....probably 300-500 miles on hooch ...ck plugs ... they were all black and sooty readjusted mix screw .... im still in the process of dialing in ...im all the black sooty plugs there was no misfiring going on .....I can tell you it made a huge difference ...but the test ride didn't get far ... it sseemed I was getting more rpm ... but wil have to wait a bit on comferming that ... in my present condition ....

 

[westgl]

My next single Carb. project will be on my 84' GL1200,

I plan on a single carb. using post or Area #51, as the Single Carb. manifold for that, it could be either a single barrel or double Barrel Progressive carb. by changing out the center section.

That project will be on a reverse trike build I have planned, I have 95% of the parts, for that build ready to go.

 

[joedrum]

this is great read ...of a really skilled cave tech guy ... his altinator mod is cool for naked bikes
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=42352

 

[dan filipi]

Had a long talk with Joe this morning and we're agreeing on the smaller runner size.
It makes sense too, less mass for the suction of the charge to have to "catch up" to.
I'm going to find a way to match head intake size all the way to the manifold, I think that's 1-3/8 ID.

 

[westgl]

Well I started it today, but only had it running for about 15 seconds, I still need to put the cooling system back together, Radiator is still off of the bike.

I had to give it some throttle to keep it running, I will try adding some manual choke to see if that helps.

After I get the cooling system re-installed, and check for cooling leaks and vacuum leaks.

 

[dan filipi]

opcorn:

 

[westgl]

Update:

Cooling system is back on.

Started it back up.

No coolant leaks, and no Vacuum leaks.

WOW!! WE!!! and I don't normally use 60's phrases.

Oh! I have the 32DFT on there right now it is a 32/32mm Progressive two barrel.

Idles at 1000 rpm very nicely for it not being completely warmed up.

Shut it down, then re-started it, it started right up instantly, It is very nice throttle, instant fast reving to 8+K.

Held throttle open, at different throttle positions, very smooth

I would like to go for a test ride, but i dont have the throttle hold bracket done yet.

I did not have to use any choking at all, starting or running,

 

[joedrum]

cool ...I don't think anyone really understands what I did with the chokes ... I know dan dose now its no longer a choke ... I have it fixed open so it will idle ... from there it is spring loaded and opens as air demand rises ... I had carb tops that were one choke and also no chokes this top with two chokes and spring tensioned did the best and smoothness hooch needs no choke to start .. you should post what the jets are on that carb im going to post what 740 are


okay idle jet primary .50...secondary....60 ...high speed bleed ..primary 1.60 ...secondary....2.20 .....mainwell tube or emulsifier ..primary x05...secondary...t02 ...main jet....primary 1.05....secondary .95 ....be interesting to see what yours are on that carb

 

[westgl]

Dan,

If you were to go to 1-3/8" ID you could still use the 1-1/4"id silicone hose over it and into the oem manifolds.

That sounds like a good plan.

I was out running the bike some more.

It really runs excellent!!!

Better than I had hoped for.

That is in a no load situation considering I have a hand throttle at the carb, cause i dont have a cable hold bracket, I changed out 7ea 220volt connectors in the shop, to match my plasma gun and welder.

But!! My compressor has a different cord end, so does my Drill/Mill, Darn,!! I Should have checked those to, need to get some cord ends to match the new female connectors.

Plasma gun, needs an air compressor to work.

Monkey Schnitz!

 

[westgl]

More pictures,

If i could figure out how to load a HIGH res video, or compress it down some I would, Not sure how i would do it.

Pics for now.

Pic#1 is the Cable Hold bracket that needs to be cut out.

I also need to finish my Air filter, I bought a carb bottom for my new single carb. and going to put the top and filter you see in the picture I have to graft the two together.

Then get a longer crank case breather and a fitting and run it up to the new air filter base.