Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[joedrum]

well dan for sure you twist the throttle you know gas is going to go in from there not wait on vacume ....the part your talking about is probably right and more related to the actual use of two carbs as one ... everyone wants too talk about the advantage of four carbs ... but mot many like me talk about the fact that the two stage system has huge advantages too ... two carbs work on each cylinder...and the four carb is just one per cylinder and the air flow system is two staged too where the four carb system is just one

 

[dan filipi]

joedrum » Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:02 pm[/url]":2q1dlcpd]
well dan for sure you twist the throttle you know gas is going to go in from there not wait on vacume ....the part your talking about is probably right and more related to the actual use of two carbs as one ... everyone wants too talk about the advantage of four carbs ... but mot many like me talk about the fact that the two stage system has huge advantages too ... two carbs work on each cylinder...and the four carb is just one per cylinder and the air flow system is two staged too where the four carb system is just one

I can totally see the vacuum slide delay thing eliminated here Joe.
I've never liked the whole deal and all the problems that can arise, especially with today's gas.

 

[westgl]

I will tell you one thing,

I am very glad I have found Joes Single carb thread, Thank You Joe.

And also Captain Midnights thread, Thank You CM85,

I am happy that CM85 posted this information, i had never seen him do that before, i was Soaking that up like a sponge.

I am very happy he did.

And this Great Web Site, for information sharing

and to others that have also contributed,

My GL1100 was not as reliable a bike as i would have wanted it to be, and i though it may be going up for sale.
It did not get ridden very much, Carb's were such an issue for me, bike ran good with the OEM carbs just fuel leaking would not allow me to take it any further than a around the block ride.

 

[joedrum]

well this has been very informative day ...I an so glad by chance and not great eyes pic up the numbers on the old carbs that actually had merit to the carb .. did my fithteen minute or less nunber crunching that meant something ....what luck ....the people that number crunch this were actually going to put two of these 740 ... one on each side on top of small port 1200 heads ...im not sure how it was figured but it was totally doomed deal ...espescially in the light of the fact that one of these carbs might be a bit much air sheesh :mrgreen: this is why this forum works to the good

 

[westgl]

I had completely Gone through My GL1100 carbs. Randaak Kit.

My GLL11 was my third Oem carb rack I had done using Randaak's kit.

I did My 86' GL12 & a 1975 GL10, a 755A rack, if Memory serves me.

That was a 78' Frame with a 75' Motor &heads/cams and had a electronic ignition and it had 1100 carb rack on it, when we got the bike, but we bought the 755a rack at local cycle Junk yard This is my brother in-laws bike

Junk yard had two 755a carb racks first one the metal insid ethe float bowls were like a very soft playdough, you could use a finger nail and make a deep dent in it,
second set o carbs were fine

I did most of the work on it two years ago, brother in law wanted a super bee looking bike those colors are his he had me paint it, put in new clutch, stator, brake masters, It is a completely rebuilt bike.

Also did progressive front and rear suspension on it

Dang, I wish I would have known about the single carb back then.

It would have saved me & him a bunch of money

 

[westgl]

You should have seen that bike before I started on it it was a WRECK!!!!

It had a frozen motor, you could not turn it over by hand at all

Same as My GL1100-2 it also had a frozen motor, when i got

I paid $300.00 for my GL11-2
Bin Law paid $150.00 for his

Of coarse that was just the entry price

I had just painted the frame, & gas tank, and Engine, rear drive, swing arm.

 

[westgl]

Yea putting two of these 2bbl carbs would be way overkill, and would not run well, i dont think.

But i have seen a few videos of two Solex 30ich and another video of two Solex 30PICT , that looked like they ran well.

Both are a Single bbl 30mm carb. but it is hard to tell some times from a video how the bike actually goes from a video.

joedrum » Mon Sep 09, 2013 1:22 pm[/url]":gmkm06r6]
well this has been very informative day ...I an so glad by chance and not great eyes pic up the numbers on the old carbs that actually had merit to the carb .. did my fithteen minute or less nunber crunching that meant something ....what luck ....the people that number crunch this were actually going to put two of these 740 ... one on each side on top of small port 1200 heads ...im not sure how it was figured but it was totally doomed deal ...espescially in the light of the fact that one of these carbs might be a bit much air sheesh :mrgreen: this is why this forum works to the good

 

[westgl]

One other thing i did to my GL11-2,

When i had the heads off for head gasket replacement,

I went through the heads and cleaned them up,

Wire brushed the valves an did a really mild valve pocket port clean up and also did the same thing to the Manifolds, it was surprising how rough they are there were several Large ledges inside the heads and inside the 4ea manifolds, but they are Clean and smooth now.

replaced valve seal's checked that they wer liquid tight before i installed them back on to engine.

this engine was frozen, had to get in there to get at it for cleanup, cylinders were nasty, but cleaned up well.

 

[westgl]

Here is my new 32/34DFT carb. does it look familiar.

A Big Brother, a meaner bigger Sister, a close cousin, maybe.

Here it is next to a 38DGAS synchronous carb both butterflies open at the same time it is not a Progressive.

The 38DGAS is the same Carb body Family as the, Joe, you ready, 32/36DGV that people having trouble with, this squirts to Much Fuel gets squirted in transition.

People use the 38DGAS for 4.0L high output Jeep engines

Look at the size comparison, remember a 32/34 compared to a 38/38

I did notice it says License Weber Itlay on the carb, and some numbers stamped into the metal on the carb body, and some numbers that are in a ink stamping too

One other thing 32dft has choke on both barrels
32/34dft has choke only on Primary barrel

It also came with a 1/4" thick phenolic spacer plate

 

[westgl]

Heat for Icing issues

I think i am going to try and route and direct the heat coming off of the radiator to heat the air into the Intake.

I would like to make something that can be opened or closed

Cold out or engine stumble occurs, due to icing, then set to open,
Hot out, or No stumble, Set to closed, to block heated air from entering intake, for more power.

This was Captain Midnights Idea below, it is a good one.
The 72' VW Airfilter housing with the dual snorkel intake,

One is for heated air intake the other is for Cool Air Intake and a flapper valve that switches between the two.

Putting a Oil cooler for the sole purpose of heating intake air, But may be used to heat legs too.

 

[slabghost]

Dang! Ya got me hunting single carb stuff. And I already have one I tried and set aside.

 

[westgl]

Slabghost,

What carb did you try?

What was your experience?

 

[westgl]

Joe,

How where your Single carb experiences, where they similar to what i described here?

Or where your experiences different?

I admit, i have Not had enough saddle time, two rides, is not enough, for a thorough test, but for a preliminary test you can get a pretty good idea, of how this bike performs.

 

[ekvh]

What do you call the manifold. Did a quick search and came up empty.

 

[westgl]

It is a VW Type IV Plenum manifold

Update see Post #41

Used manifolds on Samba or Ebay, are just as good, and will clean up well, as long as they are not damaged, or have striped threads.

Post#41 listed Manifold Info, where to get it, and pricing.

ekvh » Tue Sep 10, 2013 4:53 am[/url]":aw4dlddo]
What do you call the manifold. Did a quick search and came up empty.

 

[ekvh]

Thanks, Westgl.

 

[westgl]

Vacuum Advance Repair,

2 Years ago

When I had My 83' GL11-2, apart,

I pulled the Vacuum advance, on the back of the engine apart.

It had some rust, and was not Functional at all.

The Diaphragm had 2 holes in it and did not hold a vacuum per spec.

I repaired the diaphragm, and soaked the metal centrifugal advance parts, & springs in ATF, over night.

Then cleaned up the parts the next day with scotch brite & ATF.

I also, adjusted the Vac. advance, i read that you can adjust it.

Advance it some by twisting that adjustment, as it is a threaded part, so there is some adjustment there.

When i put it all back together, i let it sit for 24 hours, to let the diaphragm Cure, then Pressure tested it with a vacuum tester.

I pulled double the vacuum, that the manual said, several times, and it held, tested it everyday, several times a day, after that, for a week, till I put the engine back in the frame.

It was as good as new, I have not had it fail yet.

I was doing a lot to the engine at that time, New clutch, New Hotter Mikes Stator, pulled heads for rebuild and mild porting, head gaskets, and to clean up that frozen engine.

It looks like i will have to rebuild another vacuum advance on my 84' GL1200 Reverse Trike build this Winter.

I will document that re-build with pictures

 

[westgl]

Joe and others

Do you have a Heated Shop?

I am looking at building a Waste Engine Oil Heater for my shop

A Unlimited amounted amount of Free Fuel. Waste Engine Oil, like the Car Waste oil, you have from that oil change, you did.

The Previous owner took the heater out of the shop when they left.

This Waste Engine Oil heater, for your Shop, Is extremely efficient, and runs on Waste Oil, if you are throwing away the waste oil after a oil change, this is a way to use it up and have free fuel.

Get you neighbors to give you there old oil, It's FREE

Oil Tank
A, 5 gallon oil holding tank setup for gravity feed,

To a simple & Cheap to build setup,

Heater/burner
The heater you want is a 40 or 50gallon Old re-tired Junk, Hot water heater, one that someone want's to throw away,

NOTE: The Easiest Hot Water Heater to convert is a Electric Hot Water Heater I am going to get a 50 gallon size Electric Hot Water Heater as i have a large shop.
The Larger the gallon, the more heat possible., Have a smaller shop, get a smaller gallon heater.

You are going to strip it down to just the hot water tank and burner unit, that is your heater unit.

Oil feed
Some brass fittings, hooks to a cheap oil drip to the burner, This part can be a simple and cheap as you want, Or you can add a regulated oil drip, hooked up to a Cheap Thermostat, for Unattended heating.

I have seen plenty of video's of these working, and temps in the shops are good.

The Hot Water Tank's are fairly small, once out of that metal shell and insulation.

I want to be able to work in a warm shop this Winter

 

[dan filipi]

West, please start a new thread on the heater so we can keep this thread on topic.

:thanks:

 

[slabghost]

westgl » Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:47 am[/url]":2ll9b3mt]
Slabghost,

What carb did you try?

What was your experience?

I bought a Weber 32-36 I think with a home made manifold that has a plenum similar to VW type 4 you're using. Runners to stock manifold horns are metal tubing welded in place. I couldn't get idle below 2k so used the stock carbs.