Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[westgl]

I have a laser digital thermometer, just point the laser at anything and read it temperature.

After warm up, Started the bike and took some temp readings, while engine was running.

All cylinders are within 1-2 degrees of each other, so i think that the engine is running very well.

I also used this thermometer to check the center manifold, if it does ice or freeze, i can take a temp. very quickly.

I took temp.'s at the Oem intake manifolds, Heads, and cyl top of engine, VW manifold, after bike was up to temp.

Surprising the Temp issue of Icing or freezing did not seem to be a problem, The VW plenum was at 103 degrees, if the fuel was freezing, i would think the VW Manifold would have been much colder.

 

[slabghost]

Since the VW these manifolds were built for was air cooled. I would think the icing issue should be minimal at worst.

 

[mcgovern61]

I have always wondered if this Suburu manifold could be modified to accept our intakes. It is already offset just like our engines:

 

[westgl]

I have Another Project waiting for me it is about 90% complete.

Engine is in and bolted to trans, I need to finish wiring.

Moved to a new house, This really disrupts you motivation.

It is a 04' Subaru Forester 2.5L engine Complete, this engine is lighter than the original air cooled engine that was in there.

I also got the wiring harness from the Subie, and all external elec.'s CPU, all fuel inj. oxygen sensors, all elec. stuff, it is currently installed into my 1974' Porsche 914, a 1900-lbs car with that 180h.p. and 180ft Lbs torque.

It will be lively, completely rebuilt trans, car has been upgraded to a lot of 911 & 930 parts, suspension also was upgraded, all new brakes front and rear 911 brake master, large sway bars

Subaru makes a nice carb'd engine that is their indestructible engine, it has a centralized cam, like a VW type1, hydraulic valve lifters, guys use this engine to power the small Light air craft, as they are durable and plentiful and cheap.

There are conversions to VW transaxle for this engine, i would like to do a trike using this engine/transaxle.

 

[westgl]

I hope icing will be minimal, from what i have read icing occurs in lower temps and higher humidity weather

What I did to help some with the icing/freezing issue.

I removed the radiator heat shield, behind the radiator, this provides some heat to the Carb/manifold, also provides some warm air intake to carb

That may be why manifold was 103degrees, this may change when I start riding around, and carb is allowed to pull in more cold air

slabghost » Sat Sep 07, 2013 8:40 am[/url]":3haurgwn]
Since the VW these manifolds were built for was air cooled. I would think the icing issue should be minimal at worst.

 

[westgl]

Here is a tip sheet for the 32DFT carb

In the picture it shows the solenoid removed and plugged, as it is used as a after run to prevent dieseling after engine shut down, I was told by Tom the GM engineer to get rid of it, he said it will only cause you problems.

Joe,

Tom is a source for jets for this carb if you need any?

On Tom's sheet he also say's to use a 80's truck EFI fuel filter, it looks large, and looks to have a large capacity, it must have a finer micron rating?

I would not mind using one of these filters coming out of the fuel tank, and into the fuel Pump,

I have currently 2ea fuel filters, when i only had one filter in the OEM location, I had garbage come from the fuel pump, even after, I removed the fuel pump cap, and cleaned inside the fuel pump.

This Garbage can and will get past the single oem carb. filter location, since it is before the fuel pump.

From then on I use, Two of the clear fuel filters on my bike.

1. 1ea between the tank and fuel pump, as you can imagine garbage in this filter coming from tank, Note: my tank was cleaned at radiator shop, so it is pretty clean, didn't want to take a chance with new Oem carb rack rebuild, well new 2-years ago.
2. and one between fuel pump and carb., I have seen garbage in the #2 fuel filter.

 

[westgl]

Hey Joe this may be helpful

It is the 740 & 32dft carb. manual

Link you can down load it.

It is a large file but is worth it.

Link

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B85S9Tw ... edit?pli=1

 

[westgl]

Joe,

It looks to me like these two carbs 740 & 32DFT are the same main body, Also there is another carb that also share this same carb. body.

It is called a 32/34DFT.


That 32/34DFT is also the same carb body as the 740 & 32DFT, I looked at the Carb. rebuild kits for the 32DFT and the same carb kit rebuild kit for both the 32dft and the 32/34 carb.s gaskets and everything.

I am not sure of the availability of the 32/34DFT, i think it is lower.

It does Not look like the 32/36DGV at all, this is the carb you and i talked about and that it was to much carb for our Oldwings.

The 32/36dgv is a bigger carb body in every way, it shares the same carb body as the 38dgas as they look similar except the 38dgas is a syncronous carb. and 32/36dvg is progressive

I did notice that a guy was talking about the 32/36dgv saying it sprayed way to much fuel from the secondary, and was bogging all over the place, hesitation in the transition from 1st to 2nd barrel, (i wish i could find this info) and that he corrected this by plugging the secondary fuel transition squirter, and ran the secondary, off of, jets alone, he said this was way better, but i dont know for sure, no experience with that.

 

[westgl]

Look at this exploded view of the 32/34dft

Does this picture look familiar?

Same carb body family.

I used to put a larger engine into my toyotas, toyota goes by engine family, stay with in the family and everything works, and bolts up. Same Form & Fit

 

[westgl]

The Guys on the 914 Porsche sites hate those VW plenum manifolds because of the freezing air/fuel charge and the fuel dropping out of atomization suspension, into droplets

I just realized how many forums i am on and it is way to many, I got to many projects I have 2 Porsche 914's one is that Subaru 2.5L engine, Porsche or Pushmes as they call them.

They hate them because of the Long intake runners causing the cold/icing issue, and use dual carbs, to get the heat into the manifold/carb, shorter manifold, heat from head No problem.

It is harder to heat a air cooled engine, you could use a oil line up to the VW manifold base,

For the Goldwing with icing issue,

I would use 1 tube in both radiator, charge & return hose's, thin wall tube, with a outlet a smaller diameter hose maybe 1/2 id going to the bottom of the VW manifold, weld two tube's under the manifold with fittings.

This should provide plenty of heat.

The reason why i keep bring it up is that Tom the GM engineer, that I talked to said that people think they dont have to have heat to the manifold, he said to ELIMINATE drive-ability issues Heat is a must, I asked him about heated intake air, exhaust heat routed to the manifold, he said Do it right and provide Coolant heat and be done with it.

Tom was a GM engineer, so I think he knows what he is taking about.

If nothing else it is information to keep in the back of your mind if problems come up that cannot be solved.

Link to Manifold heat from TOM
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
*** But!!! ***

I have to say I am Not experiencing any of those problems that Tom listed at all, currently, maybe when the weather changes, I may.

Till then Iam running it as is, No Heat

This is Only a FYI

I will not be adding heat till I am forced,

So if I start complaining that my Darn single carb wont run, please refer me back here to re-read this post

 

[westgl]

Went out, checked for any fuel leaks, NONE at all with the New single carb Conversion.

I am pretty sure i would have had a hydrolocking fuel spill all over, If I would have had the OEM carbs, on there right now as the Fuel filter was FULL.

Cold Start;

I started her up again, started Instantly, held the throttle at 2k rpm for about 1-2 minutes from dead cold over night.

It would run with out me Hold the throttle up at 2k rpm's I wanted to see how fast it would be warm and ready to ride.

After that she ran much better then OEM, OEM seem much more cold blooded, maybe 5 minutes, with choke on for a 1 minute, oem was a longer period of time at initial start up.

Engine was up to temp. Ok felt the lower center of the VW manifold, while it was running, It was like a refrigerator, it was cold.

I could not get the temp gun under there to get a reading.

Took temp on each header coming 2" out of the head, all cyl. within 2-3 degrees of each other

 

[westgl]

Cut out the pan of the Air filter.

For that air filter i used a large diameter O-ring, that fit around the carb top, it seals really well.

When i started it this time, to really listen to it running, without any enthusiasm or maybe concentration to block it out.

That Engine sounds really good, I am noticing the cam lope much more than i did before, with the OEM carb rack.

It sounds more like a Healthy V8 Camaro with a nice mild cam in it now, than a Goldwing, Were did my gold wing go?

The Intake sound is noticeable, and sound's really good too.

Should i put a Chevy Bowitie on it to scare away the HD's

 

[joedrum]

that's pretty much as it was for me .....as far as the manifold gose yes .. you don't need a heat gun to tell its cold :hihihi: ... yes I think icing is going to be a problem just not the problem others make it out to be

its also obivious that the rubber hose runners don't have icing problem .... witch tells me the hose hook ups we are doing is better than if it were metal ....

 

[westgl]

Last work for today.

1. Finished cutting out the throttle cable Hold bracket, I really put that off, I knew building a part with manual tools i am better with power tools.
2. Cut out lower plate for Air Filter so that it would fit carb. top, installed Large O-ring as Carb to filter seal.

To do list for tomorrow, yea like i am going to follow that list.
1. Oil & Filter change on engine, a couple of hydro locks and sitting for a while, i think it is a good idea, see that i am going to put it under a load and give it a test ride.
2. Air filter is going to be fastened by a piece of all thread, nut & a rubber washer, with metal washer, & Wing Nut.
3. Get a piece of hose for Crankcase breather to new air filter base plate
4. Longer screws into front of VW manifold for carb hold down, as new throttle Cable hold bracket, I am only two threads on the fastener, Mil spec requires at least 3.5 threads per fastener.

Some Pictures
#1 shows large O-ring as filter to carb seal
#2 & 3 shows the uni-link throttle cable attachment, there is now way that oem cable end is getting out of there.
#2 & #3, #4, & #5 you can see my cable hold Bracket, it still needs some primer & paint.

#4 you can see the OEM "D" washer, & adjustment nut on the throttle cable
Throttle cable may some slack taken out of it, but for now it is fine, fine for testing that is.

I may also need a slight twist adjustment in the throttle cable hold bracket, so it is at a better angle.
Throttle cable hold down Bracket is 3/16" thk. steel

We do have Full Throttle with this cable and bracket combo,
In fact, the OEM Honda throttle pull is Longer than this Weber Single Carb. Conversion setup.



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[joedrum]

hmmmm getting ready to test ride ... big day tomorrow

 

[westgl]

I hope she does ok tomorrow on the test ride, Joe.

We will see.

I will give a ride report, If I can get my punch list finished, and do a test ride.

It is supposed to be hot here tomorrow, I may wait till Monday to ride in the cool morning.

89 tomorrow and 93 on Monday, but at 8am, it will be cool.

 

[joedrum]

big day !!!!!! funny how this all came out ... im glad the first real classic attempt at doing this coversion is coming out so good .... with all the unbiased info so anyone can have great success with this mod......I want to think westgl and me for getting it done and getting the info all sorted out ...its not full circle yet but its getting there a 100 times faster here than at others sites ... yea for classic

 

[westgl]

Well,

I guess, i will see, if i will be terrorizing all the local HD's or not.

Test ride report to come.

 

[westgl]

- - - Ride Report - - -

For starters pre-ride Inspection.

Bike has had Fuel pumped up to the carb. as i can see it in the clear fuel filter's, It is full of fuel.

No Hydrolock, Bull shlivokie, occurrences!! that to me is Great!!, it's been two days.

Took a short Test ride of 25 miles, I wanted to get back home to check the bike over.

No leaks, at all.

After 25 mile ride, stopped engine, let it sit for 1 minute, then restarted it, It started Instantly.

Besides it feels like it is almost 100 degrees out.

Start up,
Starting is very easy and very fast, you don't expect it to start as Fast as it does, it is surprising, and it just runs effortlessly, re-starts are just the same very fast start, "surprisingly fast, or Instant start " is the best way to describe it.

Take off from a stop,
I have to say it feels Torquey, Like a torquey big twin cyl. bike, If you dont know what this like, a Better description is like a GL1500 6-cylinder Goldwing, in many ways.

Riding The bike,
I rode through a curvy stretch of road, with speeds around some curves as low as 25mph, & 35mph, with some long straight away's :yes:

First off, it gets away from a stop better than before, with out a doubt, it is Torquey, you will not need to be shifting as often, this thing is TORQUEY!!, It can pull really well from 2500rpm and up, I went around a 25mph turn without down shifting, powered out of the turn at 2k rpm no problem, No lugging at all, it just went, so the next turn was also 25 mph did not down shift I was In 4th gear at 1800rpm, it pulled out of it, Now it has more power/torque, up in the 2000-2500rpm range, But if i tried 1800rpm in 4th gear, it would not be real happy with the {OEM-4 anchor}.

In the normal riding around it feels like a GL1500 6cyl. as it has good torque, and you shift less often and can power away from a turn at a lower RPM.
On my GL1500 I would not try to power out of a turn at 1800rpm in fourth gear, All the GL1500's that i have had likes 2k and above in that high of a gear

Now riding the GL1100 with carb, conversion at 2500rpm and up, it is in the bikes really good power curve, as you will have all the power you need.

It is fun to ride because it is easier to ride.

In the straight away's, there were 3 of them.
I did Not do any standing starts.

I mainly did high gear roll on's, and bike did well,

On primary only, bike was fine, plenty of power, add the secondary, and you are accelerating faster than with just the primary alone.
also open the secondary, and you have that V8 4-barrel distinct sound that the stock carb rack sorry {OEM-4 anchor} DONT HAVE! I need to use the correct reference.

I took it from 30mph to 90mph and it got up to 90mph fast, over all it was very good, first Ride.

When i was accelerating from 30mph to 90mph I had it full throttle, I let off at 90MPH, it was still going, If i had to guess, it would have done over 100 easily.

It was not running out of power at all.

That's at about 98 degrees

Next Ride will be in the morning, when it is cooler,

I will actually ride it more, like a Stock 4 Carb rack version of GL1100, I will go through the gears more and ride it more aggressively.

Oh, also there was absolutely NO hesitation or bogging at all any where in the throttle or any time while riding.

No spitting through the carb at all, it is a VERY easy and Well Mannered bike to ride now

 

[dan filipi]

Impressive review.
Makes me want to jump right on mine and install it.