Speedmetal H I D light kit installation in an 1100 Interstate

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My dark night test results.

Look at the pics and description, you be the judge of the side by side comparison then I'll give you my opinion being there in real life.

Shining on my white garage door about 20 feet away:

Low beam NO deflector on the bulb
image.php


Low beam WITH deflector on the bulb
image.php


High beam NO deflector on the bulb
image.php


High beam WITH deflector on the bulb
image.php


Shining down a dark alley:

Low beam NO deflector on the bulb
image.php


Low beam WITH deflector on the bulb
image.php


High beam NO deflector on the bulb
image.php


High beam WITH deflector on the bulb
image.php



Firstly, without a doubt this bulb puts the stock bulb to shame!!!
Just look how far down the alley it shines on high in the last picture. Incredible.
The light cast forward is much like a car with halogen bulbs, it actually lights the way now!
I should have done this upgrade long ago.

The 6000k color looks amazing.
The light reflection back from street signs makes them much easier to see.

The light projected forward just in front of the bike is a nice 1/2 moon both with and without the deflector.

WITHOUT the deflector a lot of light shines the trees.
It also makes the headlight look much brighter when looking at it while standing 20 or so feet in front of it. Almost too bright.
The beam is more like a flood of light rather than lighting the roadway from left to right.

WITH the deflector the beam is flatter and projects forward evenly from left to right in a fairly wide organized beam both on LOW and on HIGH beam.

I would not hesitate for an instant recommending everyone do this very cool upgrade and definitely buy a bulb WITH the deflector. Much much better.
 
A few other things worth mentioning.

The light doesn't exibit the dimming effect when at idle when the voltage drops.
That could have something to do with it being hooked directly to the battery but I also think the ballast maintains a constant current output to maintain it's brightness.

Being hooked directly to the battery, headlight load is removed from the wiring harness and fuses as well as the start button.

This mod is a win win.

A time delay relay might be a good option since our start button does make the included relay "open" and the repeated quick on then off then on can't be good for the bulb or ballast.
I am going to install a switch with a "ON" pilot light on the power line to turn the headlight off then I can turn it on when underway.
 
From an electricians point of view.........how many wires do we run directly to the battery before we decide that a new larger gauge single wire feeding a terminal fuse strip is better? I love the lamp! But it seems like we keep finding new wires to run to the battery directly.
 
I just keep putting a longer bolt on the battery post but one way we can reduce the number of connectors on the post is to combine the loads on a single fuse.
Like for instance, this headlight and my 2 driving lights could be connected to a single 15 amp fuse holder instead of 2 separate.
Disadvantage there would be a problem in the driving lights could knock out the headlight.
A longer post bolt works for me.
 
Dan, I really didn't expect you to be the guenea pig for this mod, but thanks for your effort. I will definitely be doing this on my bike. :thanks: FYI the catalog says sale on this light kit from Cyclegear ends 1/2/2013
 
Yer rite...it AIN'T purdy.... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: But it gets the job done, and that's what counts. :good:

It appears to me that the light is more focused with the deflector in place. Seems that would be the best choice for everyday(night?) riding, especially in fog, or rain. I'm sure you'll be able to tell more once you get some seat time in with it, but overall, it sounds like a super worthwhile mod/upgrade. Thanks for bittin the bullet on this one. There is a Cycle Gear store right across the freewaty from where I work...I drive right past it every day on da way home. Looks like I may be stoppin in today. Of course, my luck is, they will not have the dang thing.. :sensored:
 
stratocat":1sl5q0t5 said:
Dan, I really didn't expect you to be the guenea pig for this mod, but thanks for your effort. I will definitely be doing this on my bike. :thanks: FYI the catalog says sale on this light kit from Cyclegear ends 1/2/2013
No trouble, I'm glad I did it.

Now I'm wondering how this nice light would be on that looong lonely and dark stretch of highway to Phoenix.
Gonna have to plan a trip to find out :moped:
 
Ok, got the CBR coils in now it's time to put in this time delay relay on the HID.

I need to get to the blue/white from the start button on my Interstate to tie in this relay.
Trouble is it looks like I might have to pull the fairing or at least the gauges to get at it.

I have the parts bike down to the point with the headlight out but it's a Standard so where the blue/white leads to seems to be different.

Does anyone know where it leads to on an Interstate?
How far in do I have to dig to get at it??
 
This particular wire is shown by the diagram to run from the start switch to the high low switch.
I wouldn't think it would go into the fairing then back out across but who knows.
 
It all comes together behind the inertia weight. You could cut open the rubber sleeve coming out of either handlebar switch to get to it, or open up the switch, or pull the fairing. Not much fun either way...
 
I know his post was a while ago but mcgovern61 makes a valid point about a single decent battery feed and a distribution point. On my CBR naked I run an short stop auto reset 25amp breaker in the battery box and micro relays in mounting blocks near the steering head above the frame. I now have a relay in the cooling fan circuit with a manual override and a green LED that illuminates when the fan is running. The ignition is through a relay and also high and low beam so now there are no loads through the ignition switch, headlight and dip switch and the thermo fan switch. This also allows me to use a micro toggle switch for the fan override. I use a 55/65 w H4 bulb that is labeled as an HID bulb, it has no ballast but is really bright and comes with a ceramic headlight 3 pin replacement plug because the bulb does get hot. I have used these bulbs on all my mates older bikes with hopeless headlights (Cb900. Cb750, Ducati Darma). On the 91 CBR1000 I went for an eBay HID ballast kit that came with different headlight adapters designed for motorcycles for around $25. This is the later style that does not move a shield for high beam to low beam. I am trying out this kit without concern to the startup flaring to see how well it lasts. I should say that I am using a 55/65w H4 in the other side of the headlight ( headlight should have 2 45w bulbs). The light is brilliant if anything it may be too bright (road signs can bee seen to reflect in daylight) for other drivers but it is certainly great for me :cool:
 
Steve83":1xmwwyf7 said:
It all comes together behind the inertia weight. You could cut open the rubber sleeve coming out of either handlebar switch to get to it, or open up the switch, or pull the fairing. Not much fun either way...
Thanks Steve.
Not sure which way I'm going at it just yet but it will probably be the simplest way :builder:
 

Latest posts

Top