Start of project

[chewy999]

I have finally made a start on getting my bike firing on four cylinders, before I strip her down! Here is a recap of the story so far.
NO. 3 Cylinder not firing, you can quite happily touch exhaust for that cylinder,
there is a spark,
Compression test seems ok,
Took carbs off and stripped down,
Nos 1, 2, and 4 float chambers contained some fuel, No. 3 dry as a bone,
Cleaned all bits seperately with Wynn's carb cleaner,
Rebuilt carbs, No. 3 float appeared out of spec, adjusted as per spec, 15.5 mm with valve seated, and top of valve touching tang, (clear as mud),
put back on bike, fired it up, still not firing properly on no. 3 cylinder,
took it all off and checked no. 3 float chamber, some fuel present!
Undid pilot screw by one turn on no.3, not sure why, seemed a good idea, back on bike, no difference,

Would it have made more sense to check the float again?

HELP!!!

If everyone was an expert, there would be no need for forums!!

Jon

 

[dan filipi]

The gas filter screen below the float seat could be plugged or the fuel passage leading to that carb.

 

[joedrum]

yep your having a direct fill the bowl problem id say ...like dan said the screan or supply is not working right

 

[chewy999]

The screen below the float seat is fine, going to open the drains tomorrow and compare amount of fuel in each. Pretty sure all is clean, so maybe look at the float again. Also been told that blowing air through the float seat, should come out the fuel inlet!!!
Jon

 

[dan filipi]

All 4 carbs are tied together through the plenum and carb passages so yes, blowing air through the seat should come out the single fuel inlet.
I wouldn't blow high pressure through it though. I think there's a chance that could blow seals.
Carb cleaner spray nozzle is about the most pressure I'd do.

 

[chewy999]

Thanks for that, I'll let you know how I get on.

One thing I have found out, is that it is possible to remove the carbs without dropping the engine, as has been queried in other posts, but I remove the vacuum covers and the manifolds before moving the carbs. Even then the carbs catch on the cooling system pipes that are on top of the engine. Wouldn't want to try if I'd just had these coated, chromed etc. Maybe different models have different clearences?

 

[slabghost]

I agree the fuel passage is blocked somewhere. I remove the cables and airbox and with just a little wiggling can remove my carbs easy.

 

[chewy999]

Day 2 of the Great Carb mystery.
Taken carbs off and drained each one. All seemed to have the same amount of fuel in them! First time I've done this and not exactly sure how carbs 'work', so any ideas what to check/do now would be great.
Just so you all know, as I am just trying to get the bike running before I go to much further, and spending to much, I used all the original bits. It seemed to go together ok with no obvious leaks. I have also changed spark plug over to check they work. To check the spark, I just took the lead off at the plug and there was a spark arcing across. On no. 3, there was no change in engine noise, but any of the others lead to the engine cutting out!
If I strip no. 3 down again, what should I do now?
The needle jet was screwed out about 11/2 turns as specified, yesterday I undid it another turn with no effect, should I put it back where it was?
Finally, on no. 3 there is a thin grey hose at the botton, what's that for?

Sorry for being a numpty

Jon

 

[joedrum]

well if your getting spark its diffinitly carbs ...i would not take the no 3 carb apart from rack everything can be mostly worked on while together .....but it dose seem that the rack must come off to be cleaned ...the first time its seems hard to get them off but its not compared to other bikes

 

[dan filipi]

I'd be going after a plugged idle jet.
What year bike is this?
Best to put that info in your user profile so we all know at a glance on the left.

 

[chewy999]

It's a 1980 plain Jane. Just got in from stripping no. 3 again, blasted cleaner into every hole I could see. All the jets seem clean and holes clear! Put a spark plug into no. 3 lead and placed against the engine. Got a spark!

Before you read the next two queries, remember there are no stupid questions, only questions!!

Is any spark a good spark, or is there a way of checking, and,

Is it possible to move the ht leads around to check if no. 3 lead is at fault?

Thank you for your time,

Jon

 

[dan filipi]

I believe the problem is in the idle jet.
It has more than 4 tiny holes in it that must be completely clean. Only blowing cleaner or air through it while installed won't tell if it's clean.
It's the jet that can't be easily removed.
Extraction is needed. Some have used a drywall screw threaded into the jet then pulling straight up.

Plug spark wire can be swapped as a test but not easily.
The only way I know is to remove them at the coils and do the swap there.

 

[chewy999]

Thanks for that Dan, I've been following an on line guide which seemed pretty comprehensive, mentions the idle jet, but doesn't actually say about removing it. Also, can't see it on any of the break down diagrams! Does it just pull out and push in? Just to confirm, the idle jet is next to the main jet, yes,

Jon

 

[joedrum]

you can switch wires from back cylinders from one side to the other ...your bike is at where the ignition and carbs need to be brought up to par ...that inclules clear jets ...float screans cleaned if they can be gotten too ...sometimes they can be realy hard to get the float seats out ... the ignition has old ends resistors in the ennda wires that are thrirty yrs old maybe ...coils that might be cracked wiring connections that are old and corroded ignition swittch and atarter button problems ...ive gott a 77 thats in the middle of this crap of not running right and its all in the ignition cause the carbs are in good shape ...there is a relay thread that can help get the load off some of the switches that works goo on 1100s i think ...im having problems with the relay working on 75-77 yr 1000s ...but this is where your at when these thing iggy and carbs get right it like having a new bike with
great power and smoothness that oldwings brought to the table for bikes for the first time ...just keep at it you will get it lined out for yrs of service

they do have to be pulled on 1100s the idle jets

 

[dan filipi]

Thanks for that Dan, I've been following an on line guide which seemed pretty comprehensive, mentions the idle jet, but doesn't actually say about removing it. Also, can't see it on any of the break down diagrams! Does it just pull out and push in? Just to confirm, the idle jet is next to the main jet, yes,

Jon

It wasn't a very good guide if it says to clean them in place.
Sometimes they can and all is good but I bet your's is not one of those, so they must come out for proper cleaning.
It makes sense anyway, you have the carbs out so why not do a complete cleaning. The bike will run sooo much better.

 

[chewy999]

Just had a read on the Web, Randakks say don't remove them, plenty of others say it can be done with care using a screw or an easy out! 1980 and 1981 are pressed in place, later models are threaded. I'll have to have a look later,
Jon

 

[joedrum]

i think randakks is talking about 1000 jets ...1100s do have to come out ...the idle jet has an emulsion tube attached to it with side holes that just cant be cleared from the top

 

[dan filipi]

Yes there are lots of guys that have gone through your pain without removing them. They finally got it sorted after taking them out.

 

[chewy999]

Oh yes, no ones answered this yet, what is the thin grey hose on no. 3 for?

 

[joedrum]

vacume advance hose for ignition...sould go to the rear of motor where the ignition pic ups are at