Temperature gauge issue

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Dan75th

Dan75th

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Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Messages
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Location
Plant City, FL
I've searched all over and can't find a similar issue, so I'm hoping someone here has heard of this before.
I just replaced the 7 volt regulator to make my gauges work again, and I'm now having a weird electrical issue with my temperature gauge. When I turn on the key, without starting the bike, the temperature gauge goes all the way to the top, past the high mark, as far as the needle can physically go, but only in neutral.
When I put it in gear, it drops down to the upper end of the blue box at the cool end and won't move from there, even after starting the engine. Then, as soon as I put it back into neutral, it goes up past the high mark again.
I know I have an issue with my neutral switch, where the light stays on dimly all the time. Could there be some sort of grounding issue connected with that?
Any help would be very much appreciated, thanks!
 
I did just confirm that disconnecting the neutral switch when the gauge starts climbing in neutral causes the temper gauge to fall back down to cool.
 
Fixed it!

It turns out the the previous owner had switched the neutral switch connection and the temperature sensor connection. Until now, starting in neutral had never worked with the clutch out, but now it starts in neutral with the clutch out, and the temperature gauge and neutral light work perfectly.
 
Glad it was a simple fix, :good: the worst part about used anything is fixing what P O did, :sensored: then whats wrong with it left to fix to make it right. :yes:
 
As am i, :roll: should specify some p o's. :hihihi: I try to fix them up for the next owner so when it moves on, to be stock or easily back to stock, & not parted out. :yes:
 
A lot of the restoration work I'm doing, other than just going through everything, since it was sitting for a few years, is un-doing the PO modifications...including installing an original exhaust system to replace the one that they hacked apart and welded cherry bombs to... :roll:

As I bought it:
IMG_7337.JPG


Stripped:
IMG_7601.JPG


Current state:
IMG_7620.JPG


She's a work in progress, but she's getting there.
 
I actually did like the white, especially since it's a pearl white. The problem is that it was a home paint job, so it was flaking off in places, rusting and cracked in others. Plus, I scored a deal on a complete set of Vetter fairings and bags in Candy Muse Red for $200, so it made my decision pretty easy.
 
So the only part still needing color matched is the false tank? Planning any modifications away from stock?
 
I ended up just buying another Candy Muse Red false tank, since there were some dents, rust and issues with the doors on the white one.

The one modification is already made was a conversion to a single carb, mainly for ease of maintenance and simplicity. Other than that, I'll probably keep everything pretty much stock.
 
The first couple of posts on this are interesting. Got a problem and aired it out here. Thought about it for a while, then something comes to you and you tried it and it worked. Sometimes it's good to think out loud.
 
Got her pretty much finished. I changed out the fork seals last night, and I'm replacing the rear air shocks tonight with Progressive 412's, but other than that and a few minor odds and ends, she's all done.
image.jpeg
 
Good eye! Those are indeed 1200 intake elbows. The single carb manifold I picked up was originally designed for a 1200, so the downward curve at the ends mated to the 1200 elbows with a lot less work than using the 1100 elbows would've required.
 

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