I think you'll want Acetone for ABS. The cheep hobby
pant brushes work well, repair the crack first then fill.
pant brushes work well, repair the crack first then fill.
The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100
- Thread starter saganaga
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
I use ABS plumbing cement (from Amazon) and it works great. For extra ABS, my local Honda service department saves take-off plastic (we are < 1 hour from "the Dragon") for me if I ask. Cut it with a Harbor Freight multi-tool (cast saw). Use mult-purpise plumbing cleaner. If extra strength and reinforcement is needed, bed in fiberglass cloth (Advance, O'Rielly) on the back side. ABS cement actually uses more acetone than MEK. So far I've had very good luck with the cement.
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saganaga
Well-known member
Spent an hour or two fixing the clearance between the caliper cover and the tire valve.
Here's the before:
The valve overlaps by a little under a quarter inch.
Decided to take off almost half an inch. Marked it.
Tried to cut it with the dremel, but wore down the cutoff wheel instead. Switched to the angle grinder and made a pretty fast job of things. Then I filed down the edge to make sure it was straight.
Did three coats of paint on the edge. Hopefully that's enough to prevent rust from forming. I'll keep an eye on it. Mounted it back on the bike and checked. Clearance is about 3/8" of an inch.
Tried flexing it, and there is no way it'll ever hit the valve. Looks pretty good as well, if I do say so myself.
Here's the before:
The valve overlaps by a little under a quarter inch.
Decided to take off almost half an inch. Marked it.
Tried to cut it with the dremel, but wore down the cutoff wheel instead. Switched to the angle grinder and made a pretty fast job of things. Then I filed down the edge to make sure it was straight.
Did three coats of paint on the edge. Hopefully that's enough to prevent rust from forming. I'll keep an eye on it. Mounted it back on the bike and checked. Clearance is about 3/8" of an inch.
Tried flexing it, and there is no way it'll ever hit the valve. Looks pretty good as well, if I do say so myself.
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saganaga
Well-known member
Got some connectors in the mail today. I'll use them for the trunk. They look good. About $10 on Amazon.
Also got the sheet of ABS stock, but I doubt anyone wants to see a 12x12x1/8 sheet of plastic.
Also got the sheet of ABS stock, but I doubt anyone wants to see a 12x12x1/8 sheet of plastic.
Send the link for those connectors.
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saganaga
Well-known member
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211321#p211321:16nvech8 said:
MUYI 5 Kit 2 Pin Way 16 AWG Waterproof Connector Wire 1.5mm Series Terminal Connector Black is the link.
$7.50 right now. The ones that aren't pre-crimped are cheaper per unit, but I'm not sure what sort of tool works to crimp them. I'll probably sacrifice one of these to make a waterproof cover, since they don't seem to be waterproof unless connected.
If you look for "MUYI waterproof", there are options for two/three/four/five/six wires.
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saganaga
Well-known member
Picked up a jar of this for the next time I have the rear wheel off. 65% molybdenum disulfide, and the rest of the specs seem to match. $30 for 8oz, which is rather pricey, but cheaper than having to deal with premature wear. Also the cheapest option available - the M77 is even pricier.
I have had the Barefoot Willies on my SEi and now my '06 1800 since 2005. Love it.
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saganaga
Well-known member
Finally synchronized the carbs. Not too far off from the bench sync. Used one vacuum gauge and an aquarium splitter to synchronize.
Did not adjust the pilot screws - discovered my tachometer isn't sensitive enough on the Goldwing, and the pilot screws are a PITA to get to.
Also polished up and reinstalled the chrome pieces so they weren't cluttering up the garage.
Did a two-up ride today for a short distance. Don't think it's ready for two-up touring without rebuilding the rear shocks - I got some sag in the rear springs. Managed to bottom it out once on our crappy roads. OTOH, I don't wanna rebuild the rear shocks quite yet. :crying:
My left foot didn't get unusually warm on the ride, so tightening up the exhaust bolts seems to have fixed the exhaust leak I suspected I had. But I probably should replace the o-rings whenever I remove the exhaust.
Did not adjust the pilot screws - discovered my tachometer isn't sensitive enough on the Goldwing, and the pilot screws are a PITA to get to.
Also polished up and reinstalled the chrome pieces so they weren't cluttering up the garage.
Did a two-up ride today for a short distance. Don't think it's ready for two-up touring without rebuilding the rear shocks - I got some sag in the rear springs. Managed to bottom it out once on our crappy roads. OTOH, I don't wanna rebuild the rear shocks quite yet. :crying:
My left foot didn't get unusually warm on the ride, so tightening up the exhaust bolts seems to have fixed the exhaust leak I suspected I had. But I probably should replace the o-rings whenever I remove the exhaust.
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211356#p211356:fbvzwrts said:
Got one on my Valk. Great piece.
Beautiful motorcycle. Best Wing color ever.
If I were to pick a nit, one of my pet peeves on Oldwings is the routing of hoses by the fuel tank on the right hand side. Even factory routing was sloppy. With just a little effort, it can be tidied up.
...if you're obsessive/compulsive like I am.
If I were to pick a nit, one of my pet peeves on Oldwings is the routing of hoses by the fuel tank on the right hand side. Even factory routing was sloppy. With just a little effort, it can be tidied up.
...if you're obsessive/compulsive like I am.
As I said, it’s a nit and I apologize if I offended. To me, the very common routing that leaves one or more lines exposed (whether it be hydraulics, drains or PCV) takes something from the aesthetic. Seems a much cleaner look with everything tucked away behind structural members.
Heck, for all I know, I may be the only one who notices. Or cares.
Heck, for all I know, I may be the only one who notices. Or cares.
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saganaga
Well-known member
I see. I'll have to try harder with mine.
Currently trying to repair the hard cases. I'll see what it looks like tomorrow. No pics, because I'd rather not grab my phone while handling stuff that melts plastic.
The hard cases will never look great, but if they are functional for trips, I'll be happy.
Currently trying to repair the hard cases. I'll see what it looks like tomorrow. No pics, because I'd rather not grab my phone while handling stuff that melts plastic.
The hard cases will never look great, but if they are functional for trips, I'll be happy.
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2019
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- 64-CA95, 67-CA160, 67-CA77, 82-CM250C, 82-CB450SC, 82-GL500i, 81-GL1100, 82-GL1100i, & Assorted Others
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211367#p211367:3lwa2hh5 said:
You can do the rear shock rebuild in half a day if you order the spring set and 2 factory seals beforehand. I did mine this time last week and rode 4 hours on it total this weekend. I made a shock compressor out of two oak planks and two 18" threaded 3/8" rods & nuts I got from Tractor Supply. It wasn't nearly as difficult as I had imagined, either! -Graves-
