The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100

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It can also be in the carbs ...if the carbs are slow returning to idle and at especially shifting at lower rpms ...it can make it that the shifting time is extended ...as with the clutch in there’s no load on the motor ...and motor speed causes shifting to be rough until motor comes down in rpm ...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=210439#p210439:3myqimm1 said:
saganaga » Yesterday, 5:42 pm[/url]":3myqimm1]
Question time - how's the shifting supposed to be on a GL1100? I've found mine is sensitive to upshifts - I have to pull the clutch all the way in, wait a half second, and shift. Is this normal?
Compared to the sport bike shifting, Old Goldies are like WW2 army tanks in how they shift.
It does help a lot to get your shift in to match up with RPM on these bikes.
 
Rode it fifty miles today, tried matching RPMs, and that helped a lot. Early shifting seems preferred, probably because it is at lower RPMs. Checked the oil level afterwards, since a previous check showed oil higher than I remembered filling it, but the oil level was the same. I'll keep an eye on it for the next few hundred miles, but hopefully there isn't a head gasket or water pump leak.

New tires will come on Wednesday. I'm still bothered by the very tight caliper mount clearance on the front left and this is a good time to figure out a solution to get at least the (IIRC) 0.7mm of specified clearance. I was double-checking the parts diagram, and there's nothing missing or wrong. Front left and front right rotor are the same part number so they can't be reversed. Wheel only goes in one way due to the speedometer assembly. Axle is orientated correctly. My working hypothesis is that the axle nut was overtorqued at one time, causing it to ride farther in on the axle. Can anyone think of a reason why it would be a bad idea to throw a thin 15mm washer between the axle nut and the speedometer?

I'm also wondering if there's a gentle way to wash grease and grime off the engine without risking the 40 year old components. Any suggestions? I tried a brush and dish soap, then rinsing it off with a hose, but that only removed some of the grime. (I also temporarily killed the bike - three out of four of the spark plug recesses had clogged drain holes!) I'd like to get the engine clean enough to detect any possible leaks (so far, oil and coolant levels are not dropping).
 
I'm also wondering if there's a gentle way to wash grease and grime off the engine without risking the 40 year old components. Any suggestions? I tried a brush and dish soap, then rinsing it off with a hose, but that only removed some of the grime. (I also temporarily killed the bike - three out of four of the spark plug recesses had clogged drain holes!) I'd like to get the engine clean enough to detect any possible leaks (so far, oil and coolant levels are not dropping).

I used "Gunk SC-II" with #2 diesel fuel added to make it work. SC-II is a concentrate and needs to be mixed.

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After cleaning, I was able to paint.

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Mix atf in the fuel this will help clean carbs ...about 5oz per tank ...it may smoke a bit ...while it’s cleaning things ...and it’s easy to adjust the amount to where no smoking occurs when I had stock carbs I mix atf in gas always ...years later when carbs came off carbs were spotless ..
 
Discovered I had a bead breaking tool in the garage.

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Update: After messing with trying to seat the bead for about two hours, I finally ran out and bought a can of ether. Seated it on the third try.

Tried all the other tricks - bouncing it, ratchet strap, keeping it in the warm sun to warm up, etc. Nothing. The Kenda did not want to seat.
 
Did around 75 miles today, some at interstate speeds. When I find a smooth road, the rear tire seems smooth. Also, far more responsive to steering - the old rear was rather square, I fear. Still have the shifting issue - really need to drop it down to around 1500 - 2000 rpm or else it acts like the gears are grinding, like the clutch isn't working. But the clutch seems to work fine otherwise.

I have a sneaking suspicion it may be a partially clogged scavenger pump, causing the clutch to overfill with oil and act like a torque converter at higher RPMs. Crap. Think I may add some seafoam to the oil and try an oil change. Will it work? IDK. But since the instructions for accessing the scavenger pump starts with "remove the engine", I'll try an oil change or two and see what I can flush out of the system.

The angled valve stem on the new tires seems solid. Here's what I put on. Metal construction through and through.

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IIRC, under $12 for a pair on Amazon. I would personally not try to save a few bucks by buying the the angled valve stems that are held in by a rubber base, but they probably work.
 
I had a plugged scavenger pump which reacted the same when shifting. There was no way it would shift without rev matching.
It also pulled hard at a stop, almost killing the engine. No way neutral could be had with engine running.

viewtopic.php?p=757#p757
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=210573#p210573:1unpmxxa said:
joedrum » Today, 4:26 am[/url]":1unpmxxa]
I’d say atf would be better to put in the oil to try and clean things up

I've never done ATF. What's the procedure? I was planning on four ounces of seafoam, drive it gently for about 75 miles, then drain and try a new filter. Repeat, then try again. If not, I'll pull the engine, which I'm not looking forward to. Watching a Youtube vid on engine removal now - doesn't look as bad as I thought, but seems like it is a job that would take most of the day the first time.

I'm not sure what gaskets I'd need either. Rear engine cover gasket (11394-37100), scavenger pump gasket (15229-371-000), and probably should pull the clutch cover just to take a look (11393-463-306).

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=210576#p210576:1unpmxxa said:
dan filipi » Today, 7:54 am[/url]":1unpmxxa]
I had a plugged scavenger pump which reacted the same when shifting. There was no way it would shift without rev matching.
It also pulled hard at a stop, almost killing the engine. No way neutral could be had with engine running.

https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/ ... p=757#p757

Mine isn't that bad. Problem kicks in at higher RPMs, so I'm hoping for a partial clog that can clean itself up.
 
Atf cleans well too and is not near as harmful to gamble with ...I wouldn’t drain any oil out if it was full and put in a 1/2 quart and ride rather easy but no to easy and then drain it out
 
I have bigger problems now. Did a ride with seafoam, really seemed to help. 60 miles with 4 ounces added to the oil.

Went to change the oil. Everything was going smoothly until I went to install the drain bolt. Started threading by hand. Felt resistance. Backed it out. Looked closely at the drain bolt, discovered a another system of threads attached to it which had broken. Someone drilled it out to a M16 and inserted what looks to be a timesert. Shone a flashlight into it, threads looked... Well, they've seen better days. Bought an oversized drain bolt, and carefully tried torquing it to 20 ft-lbs just to start. (HSM says 28 ft-lbs)

Tighter, tighter, waiting for the click... Then almost no resistance. Backed out the bolt. Found a metal fagment. The threads drilled for the timesert stripped.

:sensored: :head bang:

This ain't good.

Suggestions? I'm leaning towards heading to calling the motorcycle graveyard on Tuesday and seeing what they have for front engine covers in the yard. Or EBay. My only worry is getting one with the same problem - are the GL1100s known for stripping out the oil drain plug? Or was this the result of a previous owner's stupidity?

If I do go with a new front cover, do I need an '82 or '83 due to the neutral sensor?
 
New front "transmission" cover is easy to find on eBay.

Neutral switch did not change between 82 & 83.

And no, it's not a regular problem, the PO must have been an "A"hole.

A good gasket set for it is only about $30 too,

It is a Bwitch to change out though. Give it a new water pump while your at it.
 
I'd rather do this on the cheap, if possible, so I'll probably keep the water pump I have if it appears to be good. (Edit: Ha ha - up to $70 in parts so far, without the cover! 2 timing belts, radiator hose, some crush washers, etc.)

Part number for the '82 trans cover differs from the '83 - is that a problem? Gasket kit is the same. Haven't checked the water pump or neutral switch part numbers yet.

Edit: Here's what I've found for part numbers:

Code:
1982:

Cover:  11360-MB9-000
Water Pump:  19200-371-020
Neutral Safety Switch:  35759-MB9-003

1983:

Cover:  11360-MB9-780
Water Pump:  19200-MG9-681
Water Pump:  19200-371-020
Neutral Safety Switch:  35759-MB9-781

Looking at pictures, the 1982 neutral switch seems to be a one wire connector (grounds to frame), 1983 seems to be two wires (separate ground). The rest looks the same.
Water pump is a little confusing, but looks like it was superseded by a different model (maybe metal fins?).
 
Thanks for the offer. Let me know. Hope to start the repair after the 4th of July weekend.
 
Got the replacement cover from Ebay.

What do you think? Because this doesn't look good to me. Should I just return this?

Edit: Measured it, it's bent over twice the thickness of the gasket. I'm returning it instead of messing with it.

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