V65 on 1200 plenum

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Gap between sparks on C5 is also adjustable. And to clarify. Joe's bike has 10 degrees more at full advance. On stock you have to start 10 degrees further if you want full advance 10 degrees further. C5 is fully adjustable and can start way before stock and end way after stock.
 
I have filed down my advance plate so it can rotate a bit more. I have never checked how much it is. You can't go too much or it hits the housing. Joe told me he set the advance at the F marks which for a 1200 is 10 deg ATDC. I wasn't sure when I set mine originally, so I went by the cams being from a 1000 and set it at 5 deg ATDC. Last summer I moved it to 10 deg thinking it would be better based on his and others suggestions. All I know is moving mine back 3-4 degrees has opened up the bottom end power immensely. For non-C5 ignitions with 1000 cams, I think 5 deg is going to be better. I'm thinking those three sparks on C5 can help cover various mixture ratios better. Ten more degrees on the top is gravy. Just another big plus to that system.
 
While C5 will handle a broader range of fuel mixtures it's better overall if the mix remains the same. If the mixture varies so will the duration of the burn which vary power available. 1200 stock ignition at full advance is at 45 degrees btc. However it starts at around 10 *btdc I think. Going from memory here. Not sure how that translates to cam driven dyna. And how the advanced cams affect timing will need to be determined. If timing was set before advancing the cams then it follows timing advanced with them so should have matched pretty well.If you reset timing to compensate afterward it's possible you went too far.
 
eric c5 sets at tdc ...ive never claim to set cams advance ever ..in fact all my post were totally against it ...i dont ever remember you listening to me about how i did my work on hooch..you listen to sky and you guys did the same things ... not sure what your trying to say ... but you certainly are not saying anything ive done or posted ...seems to me it was everyone else who wanted to advance things ..we just had a long thread on this a month or so ago ... and i was posting i would never advance the cams ...im at a loss here :popcorn:
 
Joe, I didn't say that you advanced the cams, I was talking timing. Ten degrees advance on the cams wouldn't make one revolution. I didn't advance the cams until last fall. I listened to Sky because you hadn't done it yet. I did mine a bit different than Steve and I did it before you did. Check your emails. I have the emails saying your plan was to use a grinder and copy the pics from Steve and me. Which you did successfully. Had you posted your way first, I probably would have done it your way. Why? cause it looks too easy. To be clear I mean that as a compliment. I'm not criticizing your work or saying it doesn't work. I'm just saying C5 covers a whole multitude of sins. What works with C5, may not work with other set-ups.

To anyone else reading, and Slab, I was writing ATDC thinking of Ahead of Top Dead Center. I should know better. Sorry not thinking. Anyways the way I advanced the cams will advance the timing of the Dyna the same amount. So I am figuring that in, as well as the 5 degrees additional advance from the F marks of the 1200 flywheel. I am closer to the T marks than the F marks now by more than half, I am guessing 2-3 degrees ahead of T which with advanced cams puts the ignition at 5-6.5 degrees BTDC.

I do have a light and if I can fix a plastic pipe to put around the timing hole, drain a quart, I could get an idea of where I'm at with full advance. I've never done that on any of my bikes. So then my advance marks will need to be interpreted.....urgharah!!! 1200 is 45 degrees, 1000 is 38, but with cams advanced, hmmmmmm I'm getting loooost. It has a 1000 advance so total advance is 33 degrees stock, ( 38- 5 ). 1200 is 35 total advance, ( 45-10). If my timing is advanced 6 degrees, and I have tweaked the plate some, I should be near the 1200 advance marks on the flywheel to see the line.

Thinking it over, I might just throw the 105 main jets in from the 1200 again. The change in timing might make them viable again. In my experience with the 77 carb merry-go-round of jetting, I finally gave up on jetting and did the vacuum change to the slides and then ended up merry-go-rounding the jetting back to stock. My gut tells me it's going to need 120 like the Magna, but with the smaller runners it could be the 105's.

I appreciate the advice from anyone who can help me get through this. I have a pretty shallow mechanical background. To me this a challenge, but fun. I know the syllabus said there'd be no math, but... This modification throws a few curves at you.
 
Big difference in ignition is this C5 is set with crank at tdc if I recall. And stock ignition is set at the T mark. Both start the timing right about 10* btdc. I suggest you leave the carbs alone for now and adjust your ignition timing by ear. Turn it to where you get the highest rpm at idle. Reset your idle to 950 rpm. Check throttle response. It should rev quick. Now shut it down for a minute or so and try to start it. If it hesitates turn the ignition back just a bit and try again. If it spins over free and starts. Lock the ignition down. Then go back to adjusting the carbs.
 
im sorry you think its my fault your bike dont work right ...i never told you to do something you ever did ..and the degress setting points or dyna is just BS....i never filled heads with jello or use clay and all other sorts of dumb stuff .. the techies do ...if you want good advice ..here it is the 1000 cams need to set like a 1000 motors is ..once tdc is used to set belts ...set 1000 timing in ...thats what i did period...i never saw any reason to make this off timed ..though i was hit by many this was not going to work ... i cant remember now what it is ..but once i figured out what degree the f marks were on 1200 motor it was easy to fine 1000 motor setting and thats what i did,,,never ever did anything else...i was on points or dyna at first ,, and the first hooch video is not on c5 .. it ran great ..once it got to the road and load was added ..the carb were suck dry ...everyone including you said no way ...well your work with stock carbs proved everything i said ...if you want a bike the will run ..get a non cv car carb and i will help you get it going ..but you wont ..you want to prove me wrong ..thats fine go ahead .. but dont accuse me of being responsible for your bike not working right...

i cant help the fact that the truth put me at odds with about all in the oldwing world and there praise of stock carbs being it...sheesh the truth has got me at odds even in the SCC world and its gurus of whatever they are ...as in good out the box ..

sheesh my has gearing as tall or taller than 1500s and 80mph 3900rpm speaks for itself as in road gears ...plus the bike screams down the road like a crotch rocket ...this is the truth eric plain and simple ...if you actually do something like me ...be it this and your bike will tear your arms off the bars ..that not bs either ..its truth again ...
 
it is my opinion that.... the number one reason your bike dosnt run well is plain and simple ..the naked goldwing forum and all the people that presaded you i was full it and to stick with the stock carbs .....on a motor that they stood no chance of working right on 2yrs and going now,,,seem time has proven who was full of it and it not me ..it was hard for me too even with single carb .....but i made through it ..been mouth lashed the whole way by people with smart mouths and dumb hands in the single carb feild too ....im a sticks and stones guy and suffer nothing ..plus i get to ride one of the fastest oldwings on the planet .... :yahoo:
 

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