Vacuum advance and pluse generator (VACUUM ADVANCE REBUILD)

[jdegase]

The sweet part about using the 1000 cams is the better lift and duration but it also gives you the choice to use the 1100 electronic, points, or Dyna.

this could be very interesting, if you had both hooked-up so you could easily switch between the two....

excellent stuff beav. Thanks for all your efforts.

 

[danf]

I got my two aftermarket vacuum advance cannisters in today... I sucked on the pipe, nothing, put my mitty vac on it and it moves and pumps up and holds a vaccum, the problem is, it's too strong..it would never work on the bike..I opened it up and the spring in it was twice as fat as the oem spring but the same height, so I changed springs and it works good..I plan on fastening the threaded sleeve [oem that holds arm] to the rod. then using the bottom section of the oem to mount everything like it originally was by fastening it to the bottom of the new canister..I think it's gonna work..I wouldn't say for sure until I know for fact but so far it holds a vacuum, just by holding the two ends together and using the pump on it with the oem spring in it..Wow cool..I'm testing the first one, and so far its coming together as planned, I will document the second one with photo's ect.. :grin:

 

[joedrum]

sounds great :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

I have completed my work, I am happy, I got the results I was after, I got the answers I was looking for. .. My aftermarket cannister holds vacuum, the same as a brand new one. I pump it up with my mitty vac and it stays put, no leaks..Pumps up in the 3.2 HG area when fully retracted..YES..I will attach photo's later on today or tomorrow..Cool.. :grin:

 

[dan filipi]

I have completed my work, I am happy, I got the results I was after, I got the answers I was looking for. .. My aftermarket cannister holds vacuum, the same as a brand new one. I pump it up with my mitty vac and it stays put, no leaks..Pumps up in the 3.2 HG area when fully retracted..YES..I will attach photo's later on today or tomorrow..Cool.. :grin:

Nice!
Looking forward to the pics.

This is a VERY common problem, the info will come in handy.

 

[scdmarx]

PLEASE! Part #'s before you throw the packaging away. :beg:

 

[slabghost]

me too.

 

[danf]

PLEASE! Part #'s before you throw the packaging away. :beg:

I used the Niehoff DR303 and the Niehoff DR309, they are cheap off ebay, $16 for the first and $10 for the second..got lucky on the $10 one it was only $5 but after shipping $10.. I'm thinking of pop riveting the bottoms together on the next one..This mod is very tricky you have to get the play in the rod at the correct length while attaching the sleeve for the arm..I'll show you in the photo's..

 

[danf]

Aftermarket cannister probably for a v-8 Niehoff DR303 or 309View attachment 6 these photo's are to help those out opening these up, and leaving a nice lip..It looks like hell but it works good.. Right now that's what I'm after looks will come later, you could always bondo the outside and paint it later..Freakin crazy right..I would bet a four cylinder vacuum advance would have a weaker spring in it but they all cost like hell, however it still won't be a oem spring..I'll get the other photo's later for the arm and the bottom.. :grin:View attachment 2

 

[danf]

you can see I fastened the oem bottom to the new cannister, you can't see it but the rod is connected to the sleeve that holds the original arm set up. You have to figure the play inside for the correct distance..also I had to put in a small washer as a stop at the hole opening of the new unit so the end of the sleeve will stop.. I have it all set where everything operates like before, it opens the same distance and you still have adjustment on the arm but I have it just like it was before the only difference is, now it holds a vacuum..and looks like hell..ha ha

 

[joedrum]

wow beaver im blown away....keep it up .... :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

So how did I attach the sleeve to the rod, I drilled a hole the size of the rod and used jb weld in it. I drilled in about a 3/16" or so from the bottom of the sleeve, first you need to cut off the sleeve to get the correct size[about 5/8" finished length] you need for when it opens at the same time maintaining the measurement on the end so it's like it was originally..It's not that hard if you think and double check measurements..When I dismantle my friends I will post the arm and rod attachment.. :grin: ..Now that you can open your oem one, I would first try to fix it. Don't go and glob sealer as in my photo, that's not gonna work because it ruined the movement of the rubber, if it's a tiny hole I'd try patching it first..This aftermarket solution works but you gotta get it right..I like having a new diaphragm in it, I know it's gonna be working and not leaking anytime soon..I'm having some fun with it right now because I suck on the pipe and it wants to suck my bottom lip off, ha ha..I'm happy.. :smilie_happy: :music3:

 

[dan filipi]

So if I'm following you dremeled both the old and new apart and attached the 2 halves together?

 

[danf]

So if I'm following you dremeled both the old and new apart and attached the 2 halves together?

Not exactly, I had to open the new unit to change out the spring, then put it back togehter as it was before let dry then attached the old bottom to it..so it can fasten to the housing as before, piggy back.. :grin: Is this insane or what?

 

[dan filipi]

Is this insane or what?

Hey, whatever works is my motto.

I'm finding out the advance on my 83 may be way off or something else isn't right with the ignition/timing somewhere.
Running the 1000 cams with points and manual timing adjustment seems to have cured the hot hard crank syndrome.

 

[danf]

Is this insane or what?

Hey, whatever works is my motto.

I'm finding out the advance on my 83 may be way off or something else isn't right with the ignition/timing somewhere.
Running the 1000 cams with points and manual timing adjustment seems to have cured the hot hard crank syndrome.

So you changed some stuff it sounds like.. Wow, you are using 1000 cams on a 83 and you changed to the points system, is that right? Wow.. :shock:

 

[joedrum]

somwhat or stuck advance .....like beaver said could be rusted ...ithink he said his was :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

somwhat or stuck advance .....like beaver said could be rusted ...ithink he said his was :mrgreen:

Now you will find lots of guys finding this problem.. More than you can count..Spray it good with brake cleaner to get it free..This is my thought, if any of these bikes sit for a time, the base at the vacuum advance unit will rust shut due to not being used, now you have a diaphragm that is being forced to move something that's not gonna move, end result a leaky diaphragm..plus age..this has been a learning experience for me for sure..I have taken idea's off this site and others to get here, I'm no expert but it's nice to know that if you are willing to operate it can be fixed..

 

[danf]

I really would like to use a die on the rod to thread it so it would fit the sleeve instead of jb welding it..get it threaded, then also use jb weld as well for security..

 

[dan filipi]

somwhat or stuck advance .....like beaver said could be rusted ...ithink he said his was :mrgreen:

Now you will find lots of guys finding this problem.. More than you can count..Spray it good with brake cleaner to get it free..This is my thought, if any of these bikes sit for a time, the base at the vacuum advance unit will rust shut due to not being used, now you have a diaphragm that is being forced to move something that's not gonna move, end result a leaky diaphragm..plus age..this has been a learning experience for me for sure..I have taken idea's off this site and others to get here, I'm no expert but it's nice to know that if you are willing to operate it can be fixed..

I think the mechanical advance prolly is hanging up.

I notice with the 1000 cam (which uses points driven off the left head) that after reving it the rpms drop to about 2500, kind of floats there for a split second then drops quick to idle. Much like out of sync carbs but I think that's the mechanical advance dropping out like it should. The 1100 ignition doesn't do that but I'm not sure if the 1100 should do that.
I did clean the advance and gave a couple drops of machine oil a few thousand miles back but I wonder if the springs could have broken.
I have one from another engine with broken springs.