Vacuum advance and pluse generator (VACUUM ADVANCE REBUILD)

[joedrum]

gee guys you going to let a little tab stop you ....im going after the tab if it wont let me retard the timing.....but it look to me that timing could be retarded some before the stop by making the arm longer....ill know more tomarrow....as far as advance the timing that endless ....im not trying to change the stops just alittle fine tuning ....im pretty confident that the timing can be retardedor advance a bit without the stops interfering thats what hope for :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

Yeah, the 1100 advance could defininately be a little retarded :hihihi:

 

[danf]

According to my manual it only goes in one way and is not adjustable. However with cam changes we should find a way to adjust it some. I'm thinking a slightly longer rod going to 1000 cams.

you can probably wind out that rod a good 1/4" or so to make it longer before you lose the threads, the travel to the stopping point won't change at all by adjusting the arm...I'm not going to worry about it, I know I am getting advance now, before I was in a hole... :grin:

So it's as I thought. There is a mechanical stop it rests on at both rest and full advance?

Well No, not exactly, the travel I'm refering[stop] to is the travel that goes into the canister through the arm..there's no stop anywhere but there, that I'm aware off..I created my own stop using my aftermarket set up on the sleeve of the arm..I used jb weld and measured the travel in the arm from the oem one this is the 3/16" or 1/4" I'm refering to..I established everything and every mark before I took it apart..If you have a oem and it's good it should only go into the canister 6 degrees..or 3/16" to 1/4" movement.. :grin: Here's what I want someone to explain to me, what does it do when you move the arm measurements out or in off original marks, I have mine set as it was before, would it advance better or worse if you move the arm out or in like Joe is talking about doing? that's the question...???I wanted Joe to help me on this or anyone else.. :grin: .. :grin:

 

[slabghost]

As I understand it. On the 80-81 years timing is 10 degrees BTDC at idle (highest vacuum) and 38.5 degrees BTDC at full advance (lowest vacuum) around 2300 rpm. So in thinking more about this shortening the rod should retard timing and lengthening it should advance timing. I can't be certain of this as I haven't gotten into mine yet but this is what I've concluded from my manual.

 

[danf]

As I understand it. On the 80-81 years timing is 10 degrees BTDC at idle (highest vacuum) and 38.5 degrees BTDC at full advance (lowest vacuum) around 2300 rpm. So in thinking more about this shortening the rod should retard timing and lengthening it should advance timing. I can't be certain of this as I haven't gotten into mine yet but this is what I've concluded from my manual.

Well, I'm no expert, I'm counting on fella's like yourself to give us more on this..Thanks alot :grin: I think Joe's the man for mentioning it..because I had no freakin clue, I'm ass backwards half the time anyway, I need help on this stuff. :grin: Happy New Year I measured the opening because I didn't know how else to measure it to get the degree's..I'm sure there are other and better ways. This is what I 'm talking about, I did the basic fix, done.. now we need the smart guys to step in and take over..freakin cool.. :grin: Helppppp...

 

[danf]

Yeah, the 1100 advance could defininately be a little retarded :hihihi:

After a 12 pack on New years I read this and about died :smilie_happy: ..I want Joe to helpppp me.. :smilie_happy: I feel a little retarted right now :shock: ... What the hell did I start.. :smilie_happy: You guy's crack me up...Hey Dan ... pull up next to me now at a red light,,, nothing but tail light...that's all you'll see... :smilie_happy: Happy New Year..

 

[joedrum]

i got the back wheel off and the tank ....and im going after this retared ignition :whip: :rant: :builder: i hope i dont get arrested for abusive timing adjustment on a retarded ignition :whip: :whip: :mrgreen:

im sure its not doable but im going to look the possibility of installing dyna ignition units fromm a 1000 in the 1100 ignition .... :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

i got the back wheel off and the tank ....and im going after this retared ignition :whip: :rant: :builder: i hope i dont get arrested for abusive timing adjustment on a retarded ignition :whip: :whip: :mrgreen:

im sure its not doable but im going to look the possibility of installing dyna ignition units fromm a 1000 in the 1100 ignition .... :mrgreen:

Oh, My head hurts.. :| You took off your fuel tank? Is it easier removing the tank or the swingarm? I really don't know because I never removed the tank,, heck if that's easier I will do it that way, I found it easy enough to remove the swingarm. I'm ass backwards half the time man I just took out the circlip in the rear of the shaft with long needle nose pliers, made my own custom circlip remover for that but I'm sure most guy's take the circlip off at the front of the shaft..Joe here's what I know, Honda designed the arm to be adjustable for a reason let us know your findings, thanks.. :grin: Oh and there's a arrow made in the case of the advance unit, that's there for a reason..I only have the Clymer manual.. I don't have the one with the degree's and all..man I need one of those..

 

[joedrum]

beav that dam tank is a pain in the butt....battery ,battery box ,bolt on top ,petcock and usaly the fuel filter is connected to it ....it look like i needed to get the tank out to get at that headless bolt that secures the vacume canister....but with the right bolt it looks like it could be easy timing adjust after that ...on the vacume canister skrew and the vacume unit and arm ....it worth the try anyway.... :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

I found the degree marks in my manual I just missed that page or something.. It's there though in my Clymer book.. :doh:

 

[joedrum]

this a pic of thr tank removed...and you can see ive already put in a new bolt

the tank was pretty easy to get at

this is a pic of the headless bolt

 

[scdmarx]

Hey Joe, did Santa bring you a new camera?

 

[joedrum]

newto me but ithink its realy old a yard sale thing my wife pick up ....

 

[danf]

Cool... :grin: Have you guy's checked your ignition thru the timing light process Yet ?..I have a really cool way of doing it but most of you will probably already do it this way..More on this later.. :grin:

 

[dan filipi]

Cool... :grin: Have you guy's checked your ignition thru the timing light process Yet ?..I have a really cool way of doing it but most of you will probably already do it this way..More on this later.. :grin:

Please explain.....pics are cool.

 

[scdmarx]

My manual said it ain't adjustable, so I let it go at that.

 

[danf]

My manual said it ain't adjustable, so I let it go at that.

Yes sir, that's exactly why I put that sucker right back where it was on my mod. :grin:

 

[danf]

Trying to look into that site hole with a timing light is a pain, oil splats all over that special cover and its hard to see the readings..there's another way but probably not as spot on for the profectionist... you can see if your timing is correct for one thing. And if the advance is working..In this photo I have two paint marks on the pulley, remove left pulley cover,remove plugs to make it easy to rotate, put on T-1 it should be inline with the little arrow marks and up should be up..take a small dab of white paint and mark the pulley straight across from the arrow, then mark the case too at that mark.. Rotate to F-2 and mark striaght across from the mark on the case to the pulley, mark the pulley, let it dry, start your bike up and make sure it's warmed up , get your timing light out and place it on the first wire #2 and check the marks with the light, it should be right on line with the paint mark :grin: , then have someone throttle it slowly up and you should see the marks move, that's your advance working..same procedure with #4 plug.. :grin: If there is a trick to being able to see the marks in the hole can someone please tell me... :grin: My oil is clean..

 

[danf]

This is what your oem vacuum advance will do on a mity vac hand pump, it bleeds down to the correct setting..I thought I'd put a video of it on here, a poor video, 3.2hg's, the set screw thru the rear of the canister is how to adjust the hg's, if you mess with it be sure to seal it afterwards.. :grin: If it bleeds off from the 3.2 spot you have a leak..Remember two of the three I opened up had holes in the diaphragm and one just was missing the end cap on the rear the seal..Ah man I said I was done with this... :shock:

 

[danf]

Trying to look into that site hole with a timing light is a pain, oil splats all over that special cover and its hard to see the readings..there's another way but probably not as spot on for the profectionist... you can see if your timing is correct for one thing. And if the advance is working..In this photo I have two paint marks on the pulley, remove left pulley cover,remove plugs to make it easy to rotate, put on T-1 it should be inline with the little arrow marks and up should be up..take a small dab of white paint and mark the pulley straight across from the arrow, then mark the case too at that mark.. Rotate to F-2 and mark striaght across from the mark on the case to the pulley, mark the pulley, let it dry, start your bike up and make sure it's warmed up , get your timing light out and place it on the first wire #2 and check the marks with the light, it should be right on line with the paint mark :grin: , then have someone throttle it slowly up and you should see the marks move, that's your advance working..same procedure with #4 plug.. :grin: If there is a trick to being able to see the marks in the hole can someone please tell me... :grin: My oil is clean..

Ooop's yes you have to put the plugs back in or won't start so good and put the cover bolts back on too before starting it..Sorry :swoon: