When it rains it pours..

[dan filipi]

I've read this happening to Dyna ignitions after heating up. It sounds aweful familiar, sorry I don't have more details.
Any chance you have the old points setup you could run for some time to track down the problem?

 

[zman]

I`m just throwing this out and it is all theory but here`s goes,
If a battery wasn't getting a full charge could it discharge just enough that the ignition wouldn't work under the load of the starter being used but as batteries will do on their own is charge themselves up a little while sitting.
That as well as any loose or corroded connections in the charging system as well as ignitions system would heat up and compromise the connection more hot then when the bike is cold.

 

[zman]

Fetacheese » Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:46 pm[/url]":a7rxxz14]Not even sure if the juice to the coil/ignition flows through one of the diodes . If it does ,I'm thinking I might have one starting to go bad.
The battery Z, is in good shape .

Diodes are cheap, Isn't that something you can buy from mouser or allied electronics? Couldnt hurt to replace them.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm just throwing this out there...

Loose and corroded connections, in wire plugs, splices, switches, can all cause problems especially once the weak connection has gotten hot because of high resistance flow through that connection.
It's not unheard of to have problems like this then have it come down to one bad connection.

My best advise would be to go over every connection and switch making sure they are clean and making good contact.

 

[zman]

Well luckily it`s just a 1000 and not a 1500 or 1800 , I approach tough things like a road map, I just start at the beginning and go point to point like city to city, I also have a can of de-oxit handy for the bullet and harness connections.
Tough dogs like this really are the worst..Good luck.
Also I would check whatever grounds that are important for the ignition, I`m getting a bad ground vibe.

 

[slabghost]

Clean up all the connections in the entire ignition circuit. Make sure all are tight. Then check supply voltage at the coils ignition on not running compare to battery voltage. If 1 volt or more lower you might want to install a relay.

 

[C5Performance]

Would it be practical to carry a small multi meter and if/when the next time it dies check for voltage right at the points...er...hall trigger?

No voltage=problem is upstream (coil power, coil, or coil trigger wire)
Voltage=problem is downstream (the Hall Effect trigger is defective or the brainbox of the Dyna would be suspect.)

Heat certainly can "trigger" coil shorts, causing a drop in voltage and little or no spark.
Although I took your text as saying you've replaced at least the brainbox of the Dyna if not the entire system, if you have other issues with your bike (voltage spikes/faulty regulator??) it could be possible you fried the new system already.

I just fixed a BMW R100 that killed 3 Dynas in one week. The issue wasn't Dyna's fault but i am just saying...an unrelated problem could still cause issues. Personally i love to blame the Honda coils since they give me such problems but you've gotta test and not ASSUME they are failing. On GL1000 if the plug wires are soft like toothpaste when you cut the wire end my firm opinion is to toss them into a pond.

Gary from PowerArc needs to help me out with this one! Gary...Gary...Gary (chanting)
:help:

 

[mwbill37841]

check the fuses also may hhave one broken and the ends touching just enough to let juice go sometimes. very rare since they useally just go all the way out.

 

[Ansimp]

Good call on the fuse issue!!
Try and purchase fuses that are externally soldered as they don't have the same intermittent fault issue that can occur in internally soldered fuses. I often twist the ends on suspect internally soldered fuses and often the fuse strip doesn't turn which means the internal soldering s faulty.

 

[C5Performance]

Ansimp » Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:25 am[/url]":1o9znepu]Good call on the fuse issue!!
Try and purchase fuses that are externally soldered as they don't have the same intermittent fault issue that can occur in internally soldered fuses. I often twist the ends on suspect internally soldered fuses and often the fuse strip doesn't turn which means the internal soldering s faulty.

Are you talking about the old plastic bodied fuses versus the glass ones? I've seen glass bodied fuses come loose from the center wire more than a few times. My Peugeot 404 used "solid" body fuses and they last forever. Just curious what you meant by that.

Fetacheese, don't be hard on yourself. Swapping out parts is sometimes the best way to find intermittent failures. Good luck!

 

[Ansimp]

3ag glass type fuses

 

[Ansimp]

Honda Goldwing GL1000 1975 to 1979 Service Manual Page 16-3

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

Looking at this diagram there is a diode from the start button to the kill switch. The diode stops the power coming back from the ballast resistor/ run circuit feeding the starter solenoid and keeping it engaged after the starter button is released. Even though the circuit is only 7-9 volts it may be enough to keep the solenoid engaged and it would also take power away from the coils.

 

[slabghost]

DC current only flows one way unless you have a bad ground then it will try to ground through any means it can.

 

[Ansimp]

It starts on the ignition feed from the ballast resistor, it doesn't get the higher voltage on cranking from the solenoid circuit through the diode ( you removed the diode)

 

[zman]

Fetacheese » Sat Jul 13, 2013 2:57 pm[/url]":1inbedtg]

Ansimp » Sat Jul 13, 2013 10:25 am[/url]":1inbedtg]It starts on the ignition feed from the ballast resistor, it doesn't get the higher voltage on cranking from the solenoid circuit through the diode ( you removed the diode)

More likely than not it's not the diode? The book says one reason for no spark at the plug could be the ignition diode.
Can some please explain where in the scheme of things the diode plays a roll.
Thanks again .

A diode is basically an electrical check valve there to protect circuts , relays,meters that are tied into the same circut need protection against things like spikes, Diodes have a threshold or a point of voltage that lets them flow electricity so if you had one that wasn't opening(letting voltage go forward) at the threshold voltage it would be like having a stuck check valve and no electricity would flow, on the other hand lets say you had meter`s or other items that would fail due to a spike that would also be the diodes fault because the check valve didn't close and it let a voltage spike go backwards into components that were tied into the system that spiked.
Easiest way to check them is with an ohms meter, and you can also check the voltage coming out of the diode to be sure it is letting voltage out..
Hope that helps.

 

[Ansimp]

Please read my post about a higher voltage on starting, that is why the diode is in the circuit.

 

[Ansimp]

75 GL1000 Ignition Circuit

• Ansimp
• Jul 14, 2013

Normal run circuit providing reduced voltage through the ballast resistor and power to the...

75 GL1000 Ignition Circuit

• Ansimp
• Jul 14, 2013

Normal run circuit providing reduced voltage through the ballast resistor. When starter button...

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm sheesh hammer please

 

[joedrum]

do you still have 1100 coils hooked up to the dyna .....id say again the dyna is failing

 

[joedrum]

it could still be dyna they actually get hotter after bike is shut down might be right at that level ....if it sits and really cools off it starts as we have talked its rebuild the iggy system and relay for the lynx