Who has painted their full dresser - ?

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Pony Ruiz

Pony Ruiz

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I am going to attempt this after I get my first project done - i reckon I'll practise on it - I've sprayed things. Rattlecan! I am going to buck up and use 'real' paint.

My current neverending story of a project seems like a lot of work and its just a false tank/fenders/sidecovers.

The bagger looks like it would take me all year!

I am going to do my research, Any advice?

I have a big enough compressor, a garage and a small touch up gun - probably need a bigger one if i paint everything at once - but i might not have the room for that. I am thinking of making a knock down spray booth.

My bike is brown, skanky, fairing is broken - I have a replacement, I want it to be plain black clear coat i guess no emblems...at least that is what I would like right now.

thanks
 
For black to look good you need to be really good at your preparation for paint. The tiniest flaw will be very obvious after paint.
 
For black to look good you need to be really good at your preparation for paint. The tiniest flaw will be very obvious after paint.
Click to expand...

Damn SlabG,

I thought black would hide stuff... I still want to give it a shot....on some practise pieces....

I could go with a blue or red... or orange......
 
Pony Ruiz":urr1w6za said:
For black to look good you need to be really good at your preparation for paint. The tiniest flaw will be very obvious after paint.
Click to expand...

Damn SlabG,

I thought black would hide stuff... I still want to give it a shot....on some practise pieces....

I could go with a blue or red... or orange......
Click to expand...
Lighter blues are more forgiving of imperfections. As a rule the darker/ glossier the finish the more tiny flaws will become obvious. I don't recommend the color on our bikes but just for your information. The desert sand color toyota had in the 70s hid everything. You could literally kick in the door and not see the damage looking straight on.
 
Rattle can eh.....I got one tip - 6 coats of color and 6 coats of clear.

My only concern after all that work is it going to be hard enough.....

First things first though - the prep. all the stripes are pealing up. I was told to scrape them with a razor and then sand the whole thing with 400 w/d.

I just need to get it smooth - not take all the paint off correct.

Also, i've been watching a few vids on you tube. Real artists.
like this guy - he shows the basics and then vid 7 i think shows some art work. wow
https://youtu.be/esOkBsHFlNQ
 
Pony Ruiz":2xf9oo83 said:
Rattle can eh.....I got one tip - 6 coats of color and 6 coats of clear.

My only concern after all that work is it going to be hard enough.....

First things first though - the prep. all the stripes are pealing up. I was told to scrape them with a razor and then sand the whole thing with 400 w/d.

I just need to get it smooth - not take all the paint off correct.

Also, i've been watching a few vids on you tube. Real artists.
like this guy - he shows the basics and then vid 7 i think shows some art work. wow
https://youtu.be/esOkBsHFlNQ
Click to expand...
Correct. If the paint has no cracks. Use the safety razor blade like a putty knife and carefully scrape off the stripes. You will likely cut too deep a few times as this is your first try. Don't sweat it much. Those little low spots can be filled with glazing compound(spot putty). Once you have all the rough spots smoothed the rest to be painted needs the gloss sanded off. New paint doesn't stick well to glossy old paint. If you find cracks in the old paint you need to sand them down to the original material (bare metal, plastic). For best results prime and sand smooth a few times before applying your color.
 
I have a full set of tins(plastics) except the cover on the top box. All the locks/latches and weatherstrip has been removed.

I am assuming this is the way to go - remove everything that can be removed instead of tape it off. I might just paint these and then do a swap....

The fairing has a little crack under the alum front trim. I think i am going to glass it, or abs glue it with some kind of backup material maybe a screw through it(will be covered) or some jb weld..

I was thinking of leaving off the emblems. would jb weld be best to fill the holes with bondo over the top?

thanks.
 
I'm not a fan of JB Weld. I'm pretty sure Vetter sells repair kits for their plastics. I'd go with that or Honda fairing repair kit.
 
Slab G: so honda makes a fairing repair kit? hmm. it is honda. I'll look into that.

J.D. Abs fix. I take that to mean ground up abs and acetone mixed up and shoved into hole w/tape on one side bondo/sand/paint etc.
 
I used bondo and I fixed a lot of really bad scratches and cracks, I can't even tell they were there now...I removed every latch off the trunk and bags, any parts that came apart were taken apart, it's a time consuming project for sure..Pain in the rear..I may not be a real artist but I got it done..
 
Don't use it then if you have this fear...Find a body guy and ask him what you should use...That's what I used and I got away with it... I'm just a wannabee painter that couldn't afford a real painter to do this job...
 
thanks,

I'll check it out.

Wow, I think I would have found a replacement....

mine isn't that bad... it is still together just some big cracks on the lower rt corners.

thanks i will go back and read through that.
 
SlabG et all, would you apply the abs paste to this area or just bondo?
this is the extra fairing I have I plan on fixing and painting vs. the one that is on the bike - it is a bit more problematic.


And,

What do guys do with rivets that don't look like they should be removed. The latches and locks seem easy enough, but these are on the rim of the bags and aren't covered by the weatherstrip - I don't even know what these are doing. Paint and then remove the paint? Carefully mask?, Paint over and call it good?


thanks
 

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