Yukon-Alaska 2019

[Rednaxs60]

Day 9 - July 2 - started off with a bit of work. Had to secure the trailer hitch. Had used questionable brackets on install, but thought I had a good enough solution. Turned out the weight wore on the install brackets, so replaced this morning with u-bolts. All is good now. Did find out that the stock 1500 tool kit is not very good, will be rectifying this when I get home. The fellow at the ACE hardware store where I got the parts I needed also loaned me a couple of tools so I would not have to buy, recommend this ACE Hardware in Fort Nelson.

Had another issue, the clutch MC push rod stuck and would not fully release. Could also be some of the internal parts. Caused the clutch to slip. At the next stop, checked the fluid, down a bit, will be topped up. Nothing else out of the ordinary so I worked the lever and the push rod and internals moved full stroke. Will be monitoring this as well, rebuild of the clutch MC and slave when return home.

So much for the maintenance issues.

Day was gorgeous and hot. Ride started well, lovely weather but it did deteriorate:

Started clouding over and by the time we got to Muncho Lake it was raining:

We gassed up at Muncho Lake - $1.90/litre - ouch. Had lunch at Liard hotsprings:

We finally got to see some of the wildlife that is on the highway signs:

Road conditions were good after Muncho Lake:

The road from Fort Nelson was fair to good, had a lot of chip-seal repairs. This is a more aggressive road repair than just tar-gravel. Can understand why tires need to be replaced.

The road winds in and out of BC-Yukon some six times before dropping back into BC for the turn north to Watson Lake. There is a good BC-Yukon cairn to display this:

Took a pic of Sonya, and while she was hamming it up, noticed a bison about 100 feet behind her. Don't know if I was more surprised seeing the bison, or found her shock and get the heck out of there attitude after I mentioned the bison:

The black spec behind her is the bison:

Part 2 next

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 9 - July 2 - Part 2

Next stop was at Contact Creek for gas and photo op. This is where the north-south crews met during the building of the highway:

Sonya collects a small rock at each new place we stop at:

This stop has a highway sign indicating cheaper gas than Watson Lake ($1.37/litre), will find out tomorrow.

The rest of the way into Watson Lake was good. We stopped at the 60th parallel:

and the Yukon and Watson Lake signs:

Hunkered down in Watson Lake for the night. Did a walkabout after dinner. Went to the signpost forest, it's as advertised. Don't miss and bring your sign.

Went to the Norther Lights Centre. Well worth the stop, an hour film on northern lights and how the sun affects us, very cool.

Watson Lake rolls up the sidewalks at about 2100, so expect an early night.

All for now. Cheers

 

[joedrum]

Great trip ...love it

 

[grand rouge]

Really enjoying this great adventure. Thank you for sharing it with us. Dallas

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 10 - July 3 - Watson Lake to Whitehorse dawned great, of course dawn never really came because the sun never really set. It's still pretty good daylight at midnight.

Had a good breakfast, went back to the signpost forest to look for 2 signs, Mom and Dad's from the '70s and Sonya's sister and brother-in-law in the early '90s:

No joy so we put our sign up:

As I mentioned previously, get and take your sign.

Stopped for coffee and a treat at a rustic restaurant before the continental divide:

While we were there two RVs put diesel instead of gas in their vehicles and there was another coming in from Whitehorse way with a rad leak. The lady at the stop mentioned that nothing could be done for these people before 2000 tonight. She was making excuses for the fuel mix up, but had a look at the pumps and the pumps were well labelled.

Stopped at the divide:

This is the west/east divide, there are several others in Canada.

Road construction was ongoing. Most of the construction was where the roads had been resurfaced with tar and gravel and the road is being allowed to set and be groomed by the vehicles using the road. There was only one spot where a pilot truck was used, about 3 Kms. Motorcycles are not given any priority.

Coming into Teslin there is a very long grated bridge, hate grated bridges:

Gas in Teslin was $1.41/litre.

Part 2 to follow.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 10 - July 3 - Part 2

Next stop was Johnson's Crossing, named after one of the military Commanders from the highway build:

Apparently this stop has the best cinnamon buns in the area, not hard to do when you are the only game in town.

Rest of the trip into Whitehorse was uneventful, no sign of the wildlife that is supposed to be there. Road was good and weather pleasant.

Whitehorse is a nice little town:

Another little tidbit before signing off for today. Met a fellow from Ontario riding an F6B. He was having an extended stay in Watson Lake because his rear tire was threadbare. He was having a tire sent in from Whitehorse, but the tire fellow he found in Watson Lake went on holidays. He mentioned that he was going to try and do it himself, had been on the internet to find out how to remove the tire and such. He mentioned that he was going to remove the tire by laying his bike on the side. Was hoping to see him this morning, but that did not happen, would like to have talked to him about this issue. Moral of this story, if you are heading North to Alaska, start with new tires and consider a change in your furthest destination. I have read where people have contacted shops in the north and arranged for tire changes. barring this for you touring bike riders, go to the dark side.

I mentioned in yesterday's post that the clutch MC had acted up. Fluid top up and all has been well today. Still monitoring.

Thanks for reading. Cheers

 

[joedrum]

Yep darkside is the way for road trips ...

 

[pidjones]

Dark side, carry a socket and breaker for the rear lugs, and learn to lay the 1800 on it's side to pull the rear. Drawback with F6B is that it has no center stand. On a GL1800, pulling the center stand down once she is on her side lifts the rear tire enough to make it very easy to remove the wheel.

 

[Rednaxs60]

When I had my 1800, I took the centre section of the rear out and rolled the tire out the back. I would think that a tire shop should be able to change an 1800/F6B MC tire because of the rim being closer to that of a car. Breaking the bead on one of these can't be that pleasant.

Weather forecast here in the north is for no rain for some 5/6 days, but on the way back from Watson Lake down the Casiar highway and south 6 days of rain coming. Going to be some wet riding coming up. Think I may be modifying the windshield for better viewing. A coping saw should allow me to cut down the OEM windshield. Worst case, if I don't do a good job, a new Madstad unit is in the future. There was a fellow in Fort Nelson with an F6B at the same hotel. He had a Madstad installed, nice windscreen.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 11 - July 4 - Whitehorse. Where to start. I can understand why a travel thread may, or may not get completed. Takes a lot of thought and for us non-journalistic types, even more.

Started the day off with coffee and a muffin at the local McD's, then a stroll down by the Yukon River to the other side of town. Whitehorse is not that big and you can walk from one end to the other. There are some nice parks with interesting sculptures:

There is a trolley that operates at the height of the tourist season:

We took some pics of the mighty Yukon River, once the lifeline between Whitehorse and Dawson City:

We walked over the the SS Klondike exhibit:

There were several of these boats on the river and during a 5 month season made approximately 5 round trips from Whitehorse to Dawson City:

Part 2 next

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 11 - July 4 - Part 2

We left the SS Klondike and headed for some lunch at the Klondike Rib and Salmon Restaurant. This restaurant was featured in the Canadian food show called "You Gotta Eat Here", similar to the US "Diners, Drive Ins and Dives":

Good food, friendly staff, and prices commensurate with the north.

Left here and went to the local museum. Got some pics of local town murals:

The museum was well laid out and informative. Had a lot of murals as well:

There was Sam McGee's cabin, the original, and the story of his life:

Robert Service penned the poem about the Cremation of Sam McGee:

The reality is the myth caught on, and Sam McGee who loved the north, but moved south, came back once and a street person wanted to sell him an urn with the ashes of Sam McGee in it. He apparently laughed and carried on, not wanting to burst the fellows bubble. Here are a couple of more pics of the Sam McGee exhibit:

The rest of the day has been laundry and for me, reflection on the trip so far. Reality and the romance of a place is totally different, but a person must travel and see these places. For us Canadians, we have a beautiful and great country, and lots to see. It's nice when I get back home and hear people talk about places, and I've been there. Know people who have never ventured too far from where they live, but will travel to Europe and down south. So much to see, and so little time.

I have been thinking about lesson's learned from the trip so far. Not too much to date except that a good tool kit is required, not a large one, but one that is strategic to what you may need to do. Had to buy a small socket set, a hex key set, but it could have been worse. If you have maintenance to do that you may think can wait until you return home, do it before you leave, not a lot of help up here and towns that can provide service are a ways apart. New tires before you leave and a possible replacement half way depending on your destination and mileage/kilometers to be traveled. There's more I'm sure and the list will probably get longer.

Been a relaxing day, we are off to Dawson City tomorrow. Cheers

 

[grand rouge]

Ernest and Sonya, Thank you for sharing this adventure. Easy to ride along.....unseen....with you guys. Great pics too. And the Fine Gl1500 and trailer....looks sweet. Dallas

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 12 – July 5 – Whitehorse to Dawson City. First, part of the song from the “Littlest Hobo”, a great Canadian feel good TV series from the '70s. Here's the full version: https://halifaxukulelegang.wordpress.co ... heme-song/

“There’s a voice that keeps on calling me
Down the road is where I’ll always be

Every stop I make, I’ll make a new friend
Can’t stay for long, just turn around and I’m gone again.

Maybe tomorrow, I’ll want to settle down,
Until tomorrow, I’ll just keep moving on.”

I've had this song in my head for the better part of the trip, always liked it, and it really goes nicely as a theme song for the journey.

Back to the thread, it started out as a gorgeous day, sunny and warm, good riding weather, attachment Great Riding Day

Road is quite good and makes for easy riding. The turn off the Alaska Highway onto the Klondike Highway is about 20 Kms outside Whitehorse. When you turn onto the Klondike, there is a sign about the Top of the World Highway US Customs hours. The crossing is open from 9 AM to 9 PM daily then closed, literally.

Nice riding up through:

Gas is available at Carmack and Pelly Crossings. Carmack has food. Pelly Crossing was overcast:

Just after you leave Pelly's Crossing, you encounter the only STOP sign on the Klondike Highway. Unusual place for a STOP sign, but it is a junction where you turn left to Dawson City or right to Mayo.

Bumps are identified in advance with "bump" signs. After this there are red flags on posts to identify the actual "bump". This is a lottery, sometimes there are, sometimes there aren't.

The road is otherwise good. There are several forest fires burning in the area and we had to drive through quite a bit of smoke, but thankfully it cleared up before we arrived at Dawson City:

Got to the hotel without a hitch, Dawson is not that big, can see the town in 1/2 day, but most roads are dirt and there are boardwalks throughout.

We spent a bit of time walking around the town, getting our bearings so to speak. Found Diamond Tooth Gerti's saloon/gambling casino.

Diamond Gerti's was opened in the early '70s in memory of one of the iconic figures of the gold rush days. We saw a stage performance and I donated my $20.00 to the casino revenue:

Can't forget the dancing girls:

Night will not be seen in Dawson for several months. Sonya took a picture of Dawson at midnight, looks like daylight to me:

Tomorrow is another day. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 13 – July 6 – Second Day Dawson City. If you're coming this far north and are stopping at Dawson City, a two night stay is more than sufficient to see the sights and do some close touring. We had planned on three nights, but realized that was too much so have shortened our stay to two nights. Will be off south in the morning.

Had a good walkabout first thing. Talked to a couple of gents who were touring. One on an F6B and the second, Larry, on a Vstrom 650. The F6b was heading for parts north west, and taking on the Top of the World Highway through to Fairbanks and on. Had a further discussion with this gent and he mentioned that he had been up the Dempster Highway and it had done a number on him and his bike.

Larry mentioned that the adventure bikes were being well challenged on the Dempster Highway and on the Top of the World Highway as well from fellows he had talked to. Asked Larry why he was on a 650 – had to do with weight, and fuel economy. He mentioned that he ugraded the seat to an All Day Long one, and did a suspension upgrade to accommodate his weight and what he intended to do with the bike. He was very pleased with the performance and mentioned it would go all day in the 60 to 80 MPH range without an issue.

Talked to two young riders, one from Utah, one from Colorado who were on their way to Whitehorse to do maintenance on there bikes. They mentioned that the Top of the World road where it is all gravel, ruts and dips was challenging for their adventure bikes as well.

Lots of adventure bikes going through, 650s, 800s, and the big boys as well.

Having mentioned all this, if you're coming north and are on a cruiser/touring bike, pick your route carefully. This goes for adventure bikes as well. Getting into trouble up here can be a PITA.

After browsing my emails and having breakfast with Sonya, we headed for Dome Hill where you can see Dawson City and surrounding area from a very commanding view:

We headed out to ride a few Kms on the Top of the World Highway. Had to cross the Yukon River on a small ferry:

This ferry operates 24/7 during the tourist season, but is pulled for the winter months. Short 10 minute boat ride.

Sonya's research indicated that the Top of the World Highway was paved all the way to the border, wrong. It is under construction and will probably be so next year as well. We rode for some 14 Kms to the Welcome to Dawson City sign and came back:

. Now we can say we rode this highway, BTDT.

Came back, went to the farmer's market, saw Pierre Burton's childhood home:

– he's one of Canada's literary giants, saw Robert Service's cabin as well:

, another literary giant – penned the Sam McGee poem.

Took some pics of the local sculptures and buildings:

.

Tonight it's back to Diamond Tooth Gerti's to voluntarily donate another $20.00 to the casino and see another performance.

Had dinner at Sourdough Leduc's Restaurant. Asked why the word Sourdough is used so much here. A Sourdough is a miner who lived through at least one winter during the gold rush days. He had a sourdough bread kit and beans for food. As a Sourdough, you'd be one smelly dude after a winter stay here. A person who had not spent at least one winter here, or was seasonal – yes seasonal, was a Cheechakos. These terms are still used today for the new residents. Have met a lot of people from Ontario.

We discussed an entrepreneurial venture that could be started here, and no I'm not moving here. There are a lot of motorcycles of all makes travelling through here. There is no motorcycle parts/repair shop anywhere near here. Closest shop is Whitehorse, or Fairbanks, and in Whitehorse probably limited supplies. The Dempster Highway plays havoc with bikes, as does just getting here. Just a thought, be a good summer business.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 14 – July 7 – Dawson City to Whitehorse. Leaving Dawson for parts south after having a good breakfast, and bike fill up. Very nice day to start a ride south, and on the cooler side. Fires are still burning in the Dawson area, but we didn't encounter smoke until some 60 Kms outside the city. The smoke persisted until Stewart Crossing where we stopped for the amenities and to stretch the legs.

Stopped at an old overland station, at Montague on the Overland Route:

There are some of the old buildings left, not much but the history is a good read. Here is the main building and the meat locker:

The rest of the ride into Whitehorse was uneventful, not much to report as we are just retracing our steps. The wildlife signs we have seen are not representative of what you can expect. WE have seen very little wild life during the trip, but have seen enough to make the claim that we did see some.

Had dinner at Tim's in Whitehorse, fueled up and went to the Pioneer RV Campsite about 15 Kms outside Whitehorse. First night of camping on the trip, wasn't too bad:

No cell reception, have to pay for WIFI, and no restaurant even though the web site mentions it. There are laundry facilities, pet showers, people showers – need tokens from the office at $2.50 for 8 minutes, RV wash area as well. The RV site is on the flight path into the airport and planes didn't stop landing until somewhere near midnight – still daylight at that time. Planes come in quite low I think I could read the tire manufacturer. Would not recommend this RV site for a stopover – too noisy, and the camper sites are closest to the road.

Have to thank Sonya for her sacrifice to the mosquito and black fly gods:

First time I've not been the sacrificial lamb.

Played a few games of cribbage – you know that old person's game. Not a lot else to do so we got an early night to bed.

Tomorrow is supposed to be another good day so more to follow. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 15 – July 8 – Whitehorse to Baby Nugget City just outside Watson Lake. Another nice day of travelling. Retracing our route as I mentioned in my previous post, but there is more to this day than yesterday.

We packed up after having a breakfast of quick Quaker oats and coffee with a blueberry muffin. Have a small water boiler, a Jetboil. Very nice unit, boils 2 cups of water in just under 2 minutes. The hydrated food packs we have require just this amount, one criteria when shopping.

There was the requisite road construction and gravel sections to transit. We did see some wildlife, but not too much. The road construction was transited by following a pilot truck, only had a 10 minute wait to go through.

Dropped down into Carcross (short for Caribou Crossing) to see the Carcross Desert:

, a dune desert left over from the last ice age. There are several in northern Canada in different provinces. There is also the Emerald Lake noted for the brilliant green colour that is a result of limestone in the water:

Road was surprisingly good.

Stopped at Johnson's Crossing for brunch. We went with the standard breakfast, but before we left picked up a cinnamon roll and 2 cranberry scones. This place is apparently renowned for the cinnamon rolls.

While there a young woman came in and talked about her camping experience from the night before. She paid $97.00 USD for a camp site and only had a Johnny on the spot for toilet facilities, no shower or other amenities. The ladies at Johnson's were very sympathetic and explained the cabin facilities in that the cost is $99.00 CDN taxes in with hotel amenities. Another local lady came by and offered this young woman a shower and place to stay for the night free gratis at her house, only 10 minutes from Johnson's. The young woman did not apprise herself of the offer for whatever reason, but the fact that it was offered gives one hope that not all is lost with the human race. Would recommend stopping/staying at Johnson Crossing.

Carried on to Tetlin for gas and a leg stretch. Lots of RVs on the road and using the same gas stops. Have to wait in line sometimes.

Left Tetlin and endured the longest grated bridge going. Understand why these are there, but still don't like them.

Stopped at the Continental Divide restaurant/gas bar. Only needed a leg stretch and coffee/tea with the requisite muffin of course. Very friendly place and lots of chatting going on. Before stopping we saw a dead moose on the roadside, and pondered what the vehicle looked like. The vehicle was an F-250 type truck, could be one of the competitors as well, but the right front was rather demolished. The couple with the truck were there for a bit.

I mentioned in a previous post on the way to Whitehorse that a couple with an RV had a rad leak and was limping into this stop. They were still there but hubby had managed to get the rad out and the stop owner loaned him a truck and he was off to Whitehorse to get it repaired, left at 0400 hours this morning.

Another couple with an RV had fuel problems so he went to Whitehorse as well to get parts to fix his rig.

While the gents were travelling the women chipped in and were helping at the cash register, doing cleaning and dishes. Thought this was very friendly of them, and mighty neighbourly.

Continued on to the Baby Nugget RV park for the night:

Again no cell phone coverage, no WIFI, but we were camping for the night. There are showers, laundromat, restaurant and gas. Prices aren't bad.

I have mentioned that I have the Delorme inReach Explorer. Have been sending out preset messages to family and friends letting them know where we have stopped. Had to use it tonight to send an email to Sonya's family as she does one every night. Moral here is that when there is no cell service, you can use the inReach as your email provider. Check the different plans and see what is available, don't leave home without it.

Met a fellow from Chicago and he was doing a trip up into the north, camping and seeing the sites. Wife was meeting him in Fairbanks, wasn't into the camping thing, but she did do research into the trip for him. He also had the new Garmin inReach Explorer, but said he couldn't get it to work. Had a look at it and pointed out some things to do and how to get it started. He should read the book and look at some of the tutorials on line. He had an ARB cooler in the back of his jeep, used it as a fridge/freezer. Comes out of Australia, and apparently works as advertised. Going to research this company and what is available.

Another early night and off down towards Hyder, Alaska tomorrow. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 16 – July 9 – Baby Nugget City just outside Watson Lake to Bell II, BC just before the turn to Hyder, Alaska. Another nice day of travelling.

Up early, packed up, gas in the bike, and a nice breakfast. Hit the road about 0800.

Took the highway 37 junction towards Dease Lake, about 240 Kms. Saw black bear, red fox, and deer on the road. Sonya glimpsed a moose disappearing into the bush.

Road south is good, and as can be expected, rest stops are frequent and well advertised, but not much else going on.

Stumbled onto Jade City that is not on the maps:

. Nice stopping spot to look at what is happening in the BC jade market:

On with my rant, there are several grated bridges, but tried something different. Kept the speed up around 40 Kms/hr and the ride over these bridges is much better at speed. Will test again tomorrow.

Gassed up in Dease Lake at the local and I think only convenience store. Had a bite to eat at the deli that is shared with the hunting gear.

Almost the most expensive gas, but not quite. Have paid $1.89/litre, today paid $1.58/litre. Only saving grace is the bike is performing quite well with fuel economy of 18/19 Kms per litre. Doing very good through the mountains.

The road is quite good, scenery is spectacular, but blurs after a while, can only look at so many mountains, rivers, lakes and such.

Stopped at Bell II for the night just north some 155 Kms from Hyder. Nice place, not inexpensive. One hour free WIFI only with room. The room we have has no TV, microwave, fridge, and only cost $230.00 CDN for the night. The restaurant prices match as well. No cell coverage. There is gas at $1.51/litre.

We're cooking up some of the supplies we brought with us. Have to use them sometime. Boiled the water in the Jetboil:

. Re hydrated the stroganoff sauce, egg noodles, beef & mushrooms from Backpacker's Pantry, very tasty. Started with some teriyaki beef jerky, and finished dinner off with 1/2 of a cinnamon bun. The first night of camping we had the creamy beef and noodles with mushrooms by Alpineaire, also quite good. A fellow I met at the RV site at Baby Nugget mentioned that the breakfast ones aren't bad either – will be trying these at home.

Now for a daily rant. We are so attached to our electronics, some more than others. It may not be all the time, but when we stop, we like to check emails, and at the end of the day update our blog and such. Also need power to charge cell phones, and helmet communicators. This is a challenge when camping so it is recommended to have USB ports installed on your bike to do charging during the riding part of the day. Sonya did a great job researching all the places where we have stayed and WIFI was a requisite. What was not mentioned on some sites is that you have to pay for WIFI, and this can be expensive. It is further compounded when there is no cell phone coverage. Would recommend that before starting out, contact the places you are considering as nightly stops and get the info on what is available as the web sites do not always mention the little details such as no cell coverage, and having to pay for WIFI.

For those of you who have SHOEI Neotec II helmets and the integrated Sena communicators just a heads up. Charging the communicator takes the communicator offline. Don't know why, but ours do. Something else for your list.

Enough for tonight. Thanks for reading. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Day 17 – July 10 – Bell II to Burn's Lake. Day started off very nice. Got up shortly after 0600, SSS, packed then had coffee and 1/2 a cranberry scone. We loaded the bike and set off around 0730. Road was good, as was the weather. Decided before we left to have breakfast in Stewart or Hyder. Road in, took some pictures, didn't see any advertised wild life.

Sonya has coined a phrase for this part of the trip. It's the end of the 2 province, 2 territory, 2 country portion of the trip. BC/Alberta, Yukon/North West territories, Canada/Alaska. Great trip title Sonya has coined.

The glaciers have a blue hue:

. Don't know what it is from. The snow pack was also down to the road level:

Decided to try Hyder first for breakfast:

, but since we arrived around 0930, the only restaurant was not open. Did get a pic of the inn and the need to be Hyderized:

oh2: On to Stewart for Breakfast, so back across the border, thru customs.

Found a nice, small breakfast joint - Temptations:

. Quite nice, good sweets as well. Wrote our names on a ceiling cross piece:

Left Stewart and headed for parts south. Turned onto 37 south and headed for Prince George. About 30 Kms down the road ran into bridge construction. The wait and ride thru was about 25 minutes, pretty good considering.

We gassed up in Stewart, and next when we hit highway 16 to go to Prince George. Stopped and had coffee/tea with a slice of back forest cake. Nice, nourishing lunch.

Left for Prince George area, and because we had nothing planned for this area, we decided to ride thru to almost Prince George; however, the weather gods were not on our side, rain started outside Burn's Lake so we decided to hole up in Burn's Lake for the night.

Tomorrow heading to Quesnel with a side trip to Barkerville, a gold rush period town. Depending on weather and such, may be able to do the ride and see Barkerville same day, then head off for home. I expect Barkerville to be similar to Dawson City, Dawson Creek in that having never been there, the romance associated with the name may not be as extensive as one might think – we'll find out.

Thanks for reading, more tomorrow. Cheers

 

[Ansimp]

Great going Ernest! :salute: :thanks:

 

[joedrum]

Wow what a great time ..I’d love to be on a trip like that