1976 Engine Rebuild

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I know absolutely nothing about H&Y parts. Keep in mind that these are flat four motors. The glaze builds up differently than in motors with vertical strokes. Busting the glaze with a hone will likely cause the cylinders to be out of round. Glaze is harder than the metal so where it's thin the hone will happily remove metal while it works to remove the thicker glaze on the other cylinder walls. It's time consuming and labor intensive to remove the glaze with hand held scrapers and sand paper but often under the glaze you find the original crosshatch honing still very acceptable.
The piston skirts do look worn so should be checked for tolerance. If they are close or beyond tolerance a machinist can knurl the skirts to fit correctly. Overall the insides are looking good from my side of the screen.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=166462#p166462:qsz6qifl said:
bronko37 » Sun Jan 17, 2016 3:55 pm[/url]":qsz6qifl]
Enjoy some pictures of progress...
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Yes I measured everything. As explained in previous posts. .002" clearance on skirts and journals.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=166563#p166563:1irc5zzt said:
slabghost » Mon Jan 18, 2016 11:25 am[/url]":1irc5zzt]
I know absolutely nothing about H&Y parts. Keep in mind that these are flat four motors. The glaze builds up differently than in motors with vertical strokes. Busting the glaze with a hone will likely cause the cylinders to be out of round. Glaze is harder than the metal so where it's thin the hone will happily remove metal while it works to remove the thicker glaze on the other cylinder walls. It's time consuming and labor intensive to remove the glaze with hand held scrapers and sand paper but often under the glaze you find the original crosshatch honing still very acceptable.
The piston skirts do look worn so should be checked for tolerance. If they are close or beyond tolerance a machinist can knurl the skirts to fit correctly. Overall the insides are looking good from my side of the screen.
Click to expand...

As a machinist I'm gonna have to respectfully disagree on knurling the piston skirts as an option.
 
I'm not a machinist although I try at times. I've seen and read where piston skirts have been knurled to expand them enough to fit correctly. So as a machinist would you please explain why this is not a good idea? I know that is a little off topic but I'm curious.
 
Knurling places a tremendous amount of pressure on the part. At best it would distort the piston and make it out of round. Also, the shape of the piston would mean that the knurling tool would be in an interrupted cut. Meaning the knurling tool would be on the surface of the work and off the surface as the piston rotated. This would make it impossible to knurl. Also, knurling is not a super precise operation as it only displaces the material making it very difficult to control the works diameter with any degree of acuracy.
 
knurling ...is actually super even as it is like a bed of nails with pressure of push ....but i wouldnt do this either ...you would have to do all parts of the piston even the top not to distort things
 
So after carefully measuring all the critical areas and determining oil clearances and such I am ready to move forward. I need to hone the cylinder walls and then begin with new parts.

Yesterday I ordered:

Oil pump gaskets and seals
Transmission/water pump housing gaskets, seals, orings
Rear cover gasket
Clutch cover gasket
Piston Rings
Shifter seal
Honda -bond sealant (come this far may as well use the good stuff)
Head Gaskets

I still need a few orings and some miscellaneous hard ware as I have some screws that have the heads nearly stripped. I will get the pumps reconditioned, hone the cylinders, dress in the piston ring end gaps as needed, and I should be ready to start putting things together. Will keep yall posted on progress. Should be about a week to get all my goodies so perhaps Ill get going on them cylinder walls this week.
 
Yea man Joe. All the components in this motor are in phenomenal condition. I pulled the oil pumps out last night as well and they all look perfect too. Ill pack them with assembly lube and get them re-installed this weekend. I also want to hone the cylinders this weekend too and get it all cleaned up. Next weekend I should be able to start putting it all back together.
 
I had found a fella on ebay selling a headlight for a 78-79 gl1000. Says it wont fit a 76 but I bought it anyway and what do ya know, it fits perfectly. Now I was able to just purchase an LED replacement bulb and I wont have to get the giant bulb like on the old bikes. Cost a little more to set it up but the results are outstanding.

I got a lot of work done on the motor today. The cylinders are all honed, video coming. I dressed in all the end gaps on the compression rings and they are all perfect now. Pistons 1-3 are in and pistons 2-4 are on the crank. All is torqued down and ready to join the halves. I also opened up so clean and inspect the oil pumps. They look real good so I lubed em up and got them back in with new gaskets and seals where needed. So far I am really pleased with the progress and I am having a great time doing it.
 

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You can expect to see better with that light but do NOT expect to be seen. Folks don't see anything they aren't looking for and they aren't looking for bikes. Motorcycle is a cloaking device for traffic.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=167208#p167208:33fxnuxz said:
dan filipi » Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:07 pm[/url]":33fxnuxz]
Moving right along nicely.
Headlight looks great!
Which bulb, brand and type did you go with?
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/400973787798?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

There is the link to the light I purchased, looks like a vendor who has more of them. The housing for the light was just the standard 78-79 model year light housing. I found it on ebay as well.
 

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