Can't stop gas leaking past float needles

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The Sabercycle petcock is working fine the only thing was one side of the screw holes needed deburring with a dremel sanding roll. Two days now with the new cap and petcock and no more gas leaking so I'm callin it fixed. Thanks to everyone who pitched in with advice.
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When the bike arrived I poured Marvel oil into the spark plug holes and hopefully this is trapped oil in the exhaust burning out. If it's something else oh oh. No smoke until warm, has tapered off after 30 min idling then picked up again with revs.
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Fuel pump is clicking loudly and it thumps noticably. $191 from Partzilla ouch. Any reliable options out there? I found a thread elsewhere for disassembling and repairing the worn cushion inside but it requires a strong vice which I don't have
 
I found this pump, the manufacturer is in Europe so going to give it a shot. A search of MTM goes to Germany.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393700191788I'm steering away from the OEM pump not only due to the cost but the fact this one went bad with only 38k miles and perhaps the internals aren't compatible with ethanol in the fuel being a 1980's design.
 
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Sorry about thato_O.
Ment to post 84 Prelude, purchased from Rock Auto
They are just a little bigger around.
So i used little bit longer bolts.
New hoses streched the small amount to fit the pump.
 
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I found this pump, the manufacturer is in Europe so going to give it a shot. A search of MTM goes to Germany.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393700191788I'm steering away from the OEM pump not only due to the cost but the fact this one went bad with only 38k miles and perhaps the internals aren't compatible with ethanol in the fuel being a 1980's design.
Well, an OEM pump does hold up when operating, but when they sit for long periods without operating, the rubber diaphragm dries out and cracks. (I mean, they are over 40 years old on average.) Ethanol based gas just make it worse.
 
Update: The chrome gas cap shown earlier allows the tank to pressurize so it isn't two way vented.
This fuel pump is functioning without leaks but it clicks too abet not as loudly as the original. Installation required splicing in the pigtail and removing the drain tube plus clipping the plastic nub in half. The rubber collar from the old one was removed carefully with a snap-on hook tool and silicone spray.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/304762031890
 
I have polished the brass seats, replaced floats and needles abet with the less expensive kits you see on Amazon and eBay, hung a test tank with carbs in a plastic tray for hours with no puddles, reinstalled and started/idled then shut off the petcock. A week later hydrolock
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Do I need to find OEM carb parts or will K&L work? I read somewhere K&L is now rebranded Chinese parts, I don't want to pay extra for that. Man a single carb is starting to look like an attractive option.
Also where is the fuel pressure coming from with the petcock off and filter/pump below the carbs?
Do you have a fuel peacock, try turning off fuel with engine is off and back with starting engine, and yes the single carb is the way, finished it 3 days ago
 

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Have always had great results using their carb parts.
Or the stock Honda parts for no leak carb repairs
But the K & L kit price's are so much better.
 
I had the same problem when I rebuilt the carbs on my 82.
OEM seats and needles (not rebuild kit) solved the problem completely. You want to bench test so you can check float adjustment. I used clean kerosene instead of gas becuase I had some.
 

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I had the same problem when I rebuilt the carbs on my 82.
OEM seats and needles (not rebuild kit) solved the problem completely. You want to bench test so you can check float adjustment. I used clean kerosene instead of gas becuase I had some.
That's a nice set up for bench testing and verifying the float level. One question. How did you attach the hoses to the float bowls? In the photos it looks like a brake bleeder screw.
 
You are correct. The bleeder valves I used didnt match threads on the drain plug holes so I needed to use some thread sealer. They worked well enough. I suppose metric bleeder valves would work but never tried.
 
It is called a peice of clear hose put on drain open drain hold hose up you can sometimes fix float needle seats by setting a brass BB in there and tapping with a punch
 
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