1978 GL1000 smoking bad from left pipe

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The problem with the o-ring theory is the oil would first need to get past the cooling system openings, then the metal ring in the head gasket to get into the conbustion chamber, and this same leak would show up in your compression test, which were all nearly even.

The pictures of the valves you're showing are intake valves, not exhaust. Lots of carbon, and they look a little wet to me. I'm thinking you either have carb issues (which would cause the smoke and crappy running), or oil is getting into the intake port. The only two ways this can happen is: a crack in the head, or VERY badly worn intake valve stems/guides/seals.

Is it me, or does the bottom 1/4 of your #2 piston look like liquid was sitting in the cylinder? I'd check the #2 carb for a leaking needle valve.
 
since you already have the head off. Remove the valve springs and check the valves for side to side play. If you feel or see any at all that is too much and with hard seals could well be the source of the oil. How far or long did you run it this way? Did you notice any drop in the oil level?
 
The problem is....the heads are on upside down.....
If those pics are of the exhaust valves, you must have some specialty heads that also have the sparkle plugs on the exhaust side of the heads.... :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: :smilie_happy:

Sorry...it had to be said....

#2 cylinder/piston is wet, and covered in carbon. @4 cylinder/piston is fairly clean. However, the #4 head is wet, as is the valve, where the #2 head looks otay, and even has a clean valve with no soot/carbon. You sure the pics are labeled correctly?
None of the plugs look oil fouled, or even wet at all.....this is too weird. :headscratch:
 
OK here`s my take now that there is more pics.
Clue#1 ..The plug pics didnt appear anything was fouled with oil or fuel.
clue#2 The 4 cylinder looks wet.
Clue#3 The 4 cylinder looks like the carbon is flaking off.
It really apears that it was burning coolant.
It doesnt take much coolant to smoke allot, maybe you didnt run it long enough to make a difference in the coolant level smoking bad like it was.
I wouldnt bet my paycheck on it but something to consider.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98952#p98952:1rprkfjw said:
zman » Mon Oct 07, 2013 6:27 pm[/url]":1rprkfjw]
OK here`s my take now that there is more pics.
Clue#1 ..The plug pics didnt appear anything was fouled with oil or fuel.
clue#2 The 4 cylinder looks wet.
Clue#3 The 4 cylinder looks like the carbon is flaking off.
It really apears that it was burning coolant.
It doesnt take much coolant to smoke allot, maybe you didnt run it long enough to make a difference in the coolant level smoking bad like it was.
I wouldnt bet my paycheck on it but something to consider.


Sounds like good advice. I am ordering a OEM Honda head gasket, cleaning/inspecting replacement head and going to re-install it later this week. Won't forget the oil orifice o-rings this time. Hopefully this will do the trick, will only be out $50 if it does not. Here's hoping.... :beg:
 
Make sure the block and head surfaces are really clean and smooth for the gasket to seal right. If you have a spare head I'd be checking that over. It might be better to install the spare head.
 
well im sort of puzzled oil could could leak across the top of gasket to piston to cross water passage ....as slab said clean this thing perfect and im glad you have different head to put on could just not making sense
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98973#p98973:39r4080p said:
jackb23548 » Tue Oct 08, 2013 12:25 am[/url]":39r4080p]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98952#p98952:39r4080p said:
zman » Mon Oct 07, 2013 6:27 pm[/url]":39r4080p]
OK here`s my take now that there is more pics.
Clue#1 ..The plug pics didnt appear anything was fouled with oil or fuel.
clue#2 The 4 cylinder looks wet.
Clue#3 The 4 cylinder looks like the carbon is flaking off.
It really apears that it was burning coolant.
It doesnt take much coolant to smoke allot, maybe you didnt run it long enough to make a difference in the coolant level smoking bad like it was.
I wouldnt bet my paycheck on it but something to consider.


Sounds like good advice. I am ordering a OEM Honda head gasket, cleaning/inspecting replacement head and going to re-install it later this week. Won't forget the oil orifice o-rings this time. Hopefully this will do the trick, will only be out $50 if it does not. Here's hoping.... :beg:

The bold comment is what I am questioning. Did you install a non-OEM head gasket the last time, from a place like... let's say Sabre Cycle?
 
I did not use an OEM gasket, bought it off Ebay. Some say they are fine others say they are junk. Since I am not 100% sure it was the issue I would say it is unclear to me it failed. But process of elimination would tell me to use an OEM one this time. I am also going to use the spare head and triple check the torque settings.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98993#p98993:1qhs82py said:
joedrum » Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:16 am[/url]":1qhs82py]
the gasket has nothing to do with this at all ...Honda gaskets are no better at all ...

Not to get too side tracked, but I disagree Joe. I have held one of each in my hands. An OEM gasket will not bend under it's own weight, and I have held one from Sabre that has bent just from it's own weight. If the gasket can't support it's own weight, how is it going to support the pressures of combustion?
 
may be they are somewhat better but its caertainly not worth double the money ... and if ome cleans things right and torque to 45 lbs it is what holds it neither gasket without that will do a thing right ... but if one feels confidence in that's fine ...

me ive done lots of crazy things in this area and have a feel for what works .... im sure others don't have ... but yes im sure the gasket is better in looks and stiffness
 
Honda head gasket should be here by weekend, planning to bolt it all back together Sunday afternoon. Wish me luck... :beg:
 

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